318 Intake Manifold Dowel Pin Removal Tips?

[Moparfiend]

Going to install my 21756 Edlebrock Intake manifold tomorrow hopefully. It looks like I need to remove the original manifold alignment pins on the ends of the manifold on the block.

Any wise advise from the sages on how best to remove them?

Thanks

 

[beanhead]

They should pull out with pliers, if they're sticky try to get them to turn in the hole that usually loosens them up...you can also lay pliers on their side and put someting under them so you can lever the dowel up by pushing down on the plier handles, if the pin is that dang stubborn...

 

[451Mopar]

Going to install my 21756 Edlebrock Intake manifold tomorrow hopefully. It looks like I need to remove the original manifold alignment pins on the ends of the manifold on the block.

Any wise advise from the sages on how best to remove them?

Thanks

Vice grip pliers. Are you going to use the end gaskets or RTV?
You could drill the manifold to accept the pins too?

 

[MrJLR]

And if it just won't budge, grind it down flush...
Totally not needed...

Jeff

 

[Moparfiend]

Hi thanks will not use end gaskets only a thick bead of RTV per EVERYONE I have heard from a including the Edlebrock directions!

I hope I can pull them clean out. I am not keen on grinding even though the intake is covered. One burr could ruin the engine.

Drilling the manifold would require more precision than I am able to do.

 

[Moparfiend]

i am going to soak them in penetrating fluid and knock then side to side tapping them to break them loose then try the locking pliars and try to work them loose. I wish I had a slide hammer with a collet to grab the pin....

 

[MrJLR]

Hi thanks will not use end gaskets only a thick bead of RTV per EVERYONE I have heard from a including the Edlebrock directions!

I hope I can pull them clean out. I am not keen on grinding even though the intake is covered. One burr could ruin the engine.

Drilling the manifold would require more precision than I am able to do.

It should pop right out...I've done it many times of some CRUSTY blocks and never had a issue...

Jeff

 

[69Bee]

They are normally split pins. Grab with a pair of "Vise"-Grips, compressing the pin, and it will come right out. Never use the cork end pieces, as they will hold the intake up, and will flood the engine with water. A nice bead of RTV will work best.

 

[Ranger16]

If these are hollow dowel pins, and all else fails, (if you have a MIG welder) insert a length of threaded rod (assuming these pins are large enough). Tack weld it to the dowel. Place a socket over the rod, hex side down. Then place a washer & nut on the flat side. Tighten up on the nut and it will pull the dowel.

Another version (if no welder available) would be to insert any steel tool that will fit in the dowel. Then use a pipe wrench to turn in loose. The insert will prevent the dowel from collapsing, but unlike the previous method, YOU will have to supply the pulling power.

 

[Moparfiend]

Great info thanks so much guys!!!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

I use Lineman's pliers or Lineman's cutters. Just latch on to the pin with the cutter part of the tool and use a little leverage and they come right out.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I can't even remember the pins you're talking about. Along the intake port face & act as alignment dowels to perfectly locate the intake manifold?

Option #1 - dowel puller --> will pull the pin out clean
Option #2 - pull out with vise grips (using a lot of PB Blaster) & grind off what might break off until it's flush, but BE SURE not to get ANY metal inside the engine (intake ports or lifter galley). Wheel bearing grease + magnets + tape over everything will help.
Option #3 - drill corresponding holes in the new intake

 

[451Mopar]

Hi thanks will not use end gaskets only a thick bead of RTV per EVERYONE I have heard from a including the Edlebrock directions!

I hope I can pull them clean out. I am not keen on grinding even though the intake is covered. One burr could ruin the engine.

Drilling the manifold would require more precision than I am able to do.

It should pull out, only needs to be below the intake to keep from holding it up.
Mask off the valley if you think parts / metal will get in the engine if you have to break or cut the pin.

 

[threewood]

I use Lineman's pliers or Lineman's cutters. Just latch on to the pin with the cutter part of the tool and use a little leverage and they come right out.

Came here to post the same thing!

 

[Dibbons]

Never use the cork end pieces, as they will hold the intake up, and will flood the engine with water. A nice bead of RTV will work best.

per quote: Are we talking about strictly aftermarket manifolds or are we including factory cast iron manifolds in this "don't use end gasket" rule? Thank you.

 

[69Bee]

per quote: Are we talking about strictly aftermarket manifolds or are we including factory cast iron manifolds in this "don't use end gasket" rule? Thank you.

All... When you have milled the heads, block, thinner head gaskets, the original gap spec has changed, and cannot be compressed enough to seal the gap, and allow the intake to seal to the heads. I have customers that have asked about water in the oil after they rebuilt their motor, and I ask if they used the end pieces. After they use RTV, the problem is solved. This applies to all V8 motors where the intake seals the front and rear of the block. If you were to check newer engines, you will see the manufacturers have usually replaced seals for just a bead of RTV.

 

[Moparfiend]

Dowels came out easy. I used real penetrating fluid and tapped them with a hammer then vise gripped vertically then another vise grip horizontally and taped it like a slide hammer with my ballpeen hammer and they came right out. Now I just have to clean the snot off the heads and clean up for final fit and then assembly. Really getting stoked for this!!!