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318 to 440 swap. New driveshaft needed?

Grabbergreendream

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Silly Q. I just got a 71 Satellite with a 318/727(so i was told, haven't checked...), and a coworker offered me a 440 for a good price. I have a BB 727. So if i swap the motors & trans will i need to source a different driveshaft? Want to know so I can start the hunt if so...
 
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If a 727, probably not. But a 904 will be shorter, so the driveshaft would be longer than one for a 727. I had to get a shaft when I went from a 440/727 to a 318/904 in a Charger.
 
Short answer- no
727 will orient in the same position
Time to replace/upgrade U joints :thumbsup:
 
You question I not silly. It is extremely rare for a '71 318 Satellite to have a A727 transmission. I think those usually came only behind hi-performance 340's....but it's possible. From my experience, in ALMOST all situations, you will need a different length driveshaft....but, I don't recommend you start looking for it just yet. I suggest you get the engine, transmission & rear end in the car first to measure exactly what you need.

What rear end do you have? This is very important. If the center section of the rear end does NOT have any bolts on the back of it (e.g. no back cover), it's an 8-3/4" rear end and will hold up just fine to a 440. IF there are bolts, start looking for a rear end first.
 
I should have mentioned it has a 8.75 rear. Looking into the swap, it appears I'm gona need some Schumaker mounts... Shuda mentioned that too as thats another issue bc the 440 doesnt have them. Knowing that, and assuming it has a 727(I realize its unlikely, but was told it was swapped), I suppose it's possible I wont need track down a shaft..
I am a noob with mopars so parden my ignorance...
Is there any telltale sign of a 904?
....
Better yet, can anyone here tell by this pic?
149901416965445930894.jpg
 
One thing I've learned long ago is it doesn't matter what your car came with, what matters is what it's got now, so always take the time to see what's actually there. :) I think the biggest visual tell between a 727 and a 904 is the body. A 727 has a flowing contour from front to back, and a 904 looks like it has a can in the middle of it.

727...

MN2507.jpg


904...

MN2371.jpg


I can't really tell from your picture, but that looks like a 727.

You will need the Schumacher mounts and a 971 oil pan. The Schumacher mounts are easy to get, but start shopping for the 971 now. I bought mine off ebay, but it took a bit of patience to find one at the right price. As long as you use the Schumacher mounts, your transmission, trans cross member, and drive shaft should all work fine.
 
I can almost bet that car didn't come with the 83/4 rear from the factory. So its quite possible someone has swapped the rear and put in a 727. I had a 71 satellite and it had the 318,904 and 81/4 rear. I can't tell from the pic however if you go to the internet I'm sure you can find pics of a 727 and 904. You can tell the difference right away by looking at the pans. They are different shaped and will tell you at a glance which you have.
 
Search B bodies for Driveshaft Length Chart. Cranky posted one last year.
this may help.

Also rule of thumb for proper Driveshaft Length = slide slip joint onto tail shaft of transmission. Slide all the way on the splines until it stops. Measure from center of bearing cap of slip joint u-joint to the center of the rear-end yoke. (where the u-joint bearing cross would mount)
Subtract 3/4 inch to allow for articulation (travel) of the rear-end.
 
Fender tag will tell you what came in the car.
Most 318 B's got a 904 and 8.25 unless if ordered with a tow package then a 727 and 8.75 would be in line.
Easy way to tell is on the pass side of the pan 727 has a hump and 904 doesn't.
Also 904 has a smaller slip yoke than the 727.
You don't need Schumacher conversion mounts at 260.00. You have a V-8 K-frame so your not converting anything. Just get the factory BB mounting brackets for around 75.00. I probably have a pair or 2.
 
Fender tag will tell you what came in the car.
Most 318 B's got a 904 and 8.25 unless if ordered with a tow package then a 727 and 8.75 would be in line.
Easy way to tell is on the pass side of the pan 727 has a hump and 904 doesn't.
Also 904 has a smaller slip yoke than the 727.
You don't need Schumacher conversion mounts at 260.00. You have a V-8 K-frame so your not converting anything. Just get the factory BB mounting brackets for around 75.00. I probably have a pair or 2.
Schumacher mounts are $144 and worth the price. Nothing sucks more than thinking you got the right parts and not finding out you were wrong until you're trying to get the engine into place.
 
Guys,
Here is the difference between the 1973-1978 SB K-frame pn#3642744 and the BB K-frame pn#3642748 This info came from the Chrysler Engines Conversions section in the Direct Connection Racing Manual ("The Bible") I have included a picture of both that I found. I hope this info helps.
73 SB vs BB K frame.jpg
img001.jpg
img002.jpg
 
As mentioned...
Conversion mounts are needed for 73 and lates but all V8s used same K member up to 72. Just get the right stock piece engine mount.
 
Guys,
Here is the difference between the 1973-1978 SB K-frame pn#3642744 and the BB K-frame pn#3642748 This info came from the Chrysler Engines Conversions section in the Direct Connection Racing Manual ("The Bible") I have included a picture of both that I found. I hope this info helps.
View attachment 500780 View attachment 500781 View attachment 500782
not in this case, the car is a 71 and the k frame is the same for a v8 except Hemi,he just needs brackets
 
Your absolutely correct. 71-72 SB & BB use the same K-Frames. I guess I did not read the first post.

Sorry for the confusion on my part.
 
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