383 Street Build - For Dummies

[RockyPat]

Hello everyone,

I recently scored a deal on a 1969 date code 383 4 barrel with a 727 transmission.

The plan is to put this drivetrain in my 1971 Charger with a current 318/904.

The 727 looks like it is in solid, rebuildable condition.

The 383 has some wear from being stored outside for some time. The intake openings have rust in them and the rockers have rust on them. I am sure there is more bad news inside the engine. I have not tried to turn the crank or inspected the insides of the engine yet. I will shortly.

Water looks to have gotten into the engine because the oil is watery.

Should I rebuild the 383 if the bottom end is alright? OR, should I try to buy a 440 and build it since I would be starting out with higher displacement. I have Edlebrock performer intakes for both a 383 and a 440.

I am looking to build the 383 for the street with good power and torque, but with a strong emphasis on good drivability and respectable fuel economy. If the 383's condition makes sense to rebuild.

Could anyone give me an outline for dummies of a good street 383 build that is budget oriented: $3000 if possible. For just the engine and no swap parts.

 

[pnora]

Do a complete tear down and inspection of the 383 and go from there.

 

[69a100]

I am sure there is more bad news inside the engine.
Water looks to have gotten into the engine because the oil is watery.
What should I do if the engine needs a bottom end?
I am still considering a 440, but to get one would cost me at least another $500 most likely.
What would you guys do considering that I am not looking for any crazy performance.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks FBBO!

You will need to rebuild it all if H2O got in the oil, bearings, oil & water don't mix!
How damaged is the crank, rods, etc.?
Which would be cheaper after all that inspection, rebuilt, or get a stroker kit?
You won't need a crazy big cam, but you'll need one!
If you want a 440 then get the stoker kit, head job and ***. parts and call it a day!
Good Luck

 

[66/440]

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020...par-b-block-stroker-that-makes-nearly-600-hp/

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/per...ldup.html?s=3b0e1a96e2dc495bf39e475d8a4a13b9\



BTW you do realize that's $850 EACH for the Edelbrock heads?
Consider the TrickFlow heads for a little more. Would allow you to build almost anything you wanted to with out running out of air.

 

[#41]

Sitting outside for years, it may not be the deal you hope it is. Can you turn it over or is it rusted frozen? You need to pull the oil pan, intake, and heads and see what it look like in there before you can start getting any reliable answers.

As far as your plan, I read a lot of conflicts between budget, stroker/not stroker, power vs. fuel economy, etc. so it's hard to comment. What is your budget?.... and does your budget include all the other things necessary to change from small to big block or is it just the engine alone?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Hello everyone,

I recently scored a deal on a 1969 date code 383 4 barrel with a 727 transmission.

The plan is to put this drivetrain in my 1971 Charger with a current 318/904.

The 727 looks like it is in solid, rebuildable condition.

The 383 has some wear from being stored outside for some time. The intake openings have rust in them and the rockers have rust on them. I am sure there is more bad news inside the engine.

Water looks to have gotten into the engine because the oil is watery.

Should I rebuild the 383 if the bottom end is alright? I am looking to avoid paying for a stroker kit regardless of what motor I choose because of the expense (unless I can be convinced LOL).

I do have a question about 383 stroker kits from 440source.

438 vs 496. Would everyone prefer the 496 because of the higher displacement for the same price? Is it alright for the street?

I am looking to build the 383 for the street with good power and torque, but with a strong emphasis on good drivability and respectable fuel economy.

Could anyone give me an outline for dummies of a good street 383 build that is budget oriented?

I have two Edlebrock performer intakes one for a 383 with 383 heads and one for a 383 with 440 heads (I think). I would like to use one of them on the build.

I am considering aluminum heads (specifically Edlebrock ones around $800-850) because of the cost to rebuild cast iron ones.

What should I do if the engine needs a bottom end?

Get a 440 instead?

I am still considering a 440, but to get one would cost me at least another $500 most likely.

What would you guys do considering that I am not looking for any crazy performance.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks FBBO!

You do realize there is no difference in the cast heads? 383 and 440 both used 906 heads. The 440 intake will not fit on the 383 regardless of the heads you choose since they are the same. The 440 is a tall deck and the 383 is a low deck. You cannot swap intakes from one to the other.

 

[RockyPat]

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2020...par-b-block-stroker-that-makes-nearly-600-hp/

http://www.moparchat.com/forums/per...ldup.html?s=3b0e1a96e2dc495bf39e475d8a4a13b9\



BTW you do realize that's $850 EACH for the Edelbrock heads?
Consider the TrickFlow heads for a little more. Would allow you to build almost anything you wanted to with out running out of air.

I did not know that this was the pricing for each head! Silly mistake. Thanks for letting me know. I think cast iron is the way to go now. Also, awesome articles with good information!

 

[RockyPat]

Sitting outside for years, it may not be the deal you hope it is. Can you turn it over or is it rusted frozen? You need to pull the oil pan, intake, and heads and see what it look like in there before you can start getting any reliable answers.

As far as your plan, I read a lot of conflicts between budget, stroker/not stroker, power vs. fuel economy, etc. so it's hard to comment. What is your budget?.... and does your budget include all the other things necessary to change from small to big block or is it just the engine alone?

You are probably right about the engine not being the deal I thought it would be. I have yet to do a deep dive into the engine to inspect it. I am trying to plan ahead, so I apologize for the tangents in this post. I fixed it up cleaned it up. I now have removed the stroker kit stuff for another post. I posted my budget and said what it included. My apologies. Thanks for your comment it helps.

 

[RockyPat]

You do realize there is no difference in the cast heads? 383 and 440 both used 906 heads. The 440 intake will not fit on the 383 regardless of the heads you choose since they are the same. The 440 is a tall deck and the 383 is a low deck. You cannot swap intakes from one to the other.

Yes you are right. I did read that in other forum posts. I just was not completely sure. Now I have an intake for a 383 and a 440. Thanks for clearing this up for me. I appreciate it.

 

[440 Charger]

Hello everyone,

I recently scored a deal on a 1969 date code 383 4 barrel with a 727 transmission.

The plan is to put this drivetrain in my 1971 Charger with a current 318/904.

The 727 looks like it is in solid, rebuildable condition.

The 383 has some wear from being stored outside for some time. The intake openings have rust in them and the rockers have rust on them. I am sure there is more bad news inside the engine. I have not tried to turn the crank or inspected the insides of the engine yet. I will shortly.

Water looks to have gotten into the engine because the oil is watery.

Should I rebuild the 383 if the bottom end is alright? OR, should I try to buy a 440 and build it since I would be starting out with higher displacement. I have Edlebrock performer intakes for both a 383 and a 440.

I am looking to build the 383 for the street with good power and torque, but with a strong emphasis on good drivability and respectable fuel economy. If the 383's condition makes sense to rebuild.

Could anyone give me an outline for dummies of a good street 383 build that is budget oriented: $3000 if possible. For just the engine and no swap parts.[/QUOTYou
You are going to sell that car.