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383 Throttle Bracket?

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Joined
Sep 28, 2010
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Location
Minnesota
Brought my Charger into the shop recently for some transmission repair, and the tech believes I may have the wrong throttle bracket on my car (which I would believe, considering all of the other surprises I've had). He thinks it is for a smaller block, which would explain some of the problems I've had with the motor.

Here's a couple of pictures of what is on there now. For some reason, I have two of them. I'm wondering if the tech is right, if for no other reason that the bracket is blue...weren't the 360s and 318s painted blue?

If these aren't correct, any recommendations on replacements? I'm planning on putting a new 750 Edelbrock in the car next spring, if that would help suggestion-wise.

Thanks!

Pete

throttle bracket 002.jpg


throttle bracket 001.jpg
 
The big block bracket should be 4 3/4" center to center on the holes...and some big blocks got painted that color.
 
also depends on the year , my 68 roadrunner had a bracket that only had one hole for attaching to the intake :icon_axe:
 
Ok, cool...thank ya! The trans tech seemed to think that the carb wasn't able to get full throttle from the current setup. He put a Lokar kick-down unit in there which seemed to help a little, but I don't believe it settled the WOT issue.

The car is going to be mostly mothballed until springtime, so I guess we'll see what happens after I install the new carb.

Thanks again!

Pete
 
The 383 in my '68 Coronet has a Holley SD intake and a 1" phenolic adapter, so I ditched the stock bracket and went with a taller AREngineering bracket (designed for the Eddy Performer RPM intake) which uses the factory three piece kickdown linkage (which I have). I had to trim some of the metal off the front of the bracket to allow the longer-than-stock (needed the extra length for the taller intake setup) factory-style throttle cable to open the carb to WOT. Once that was corrected, then the kickdown linkage was adjusted.

If it were me, I'd make sure the carb can reach WOT first, then get the kickdown (actually, the throttle valve pressure) linkage worked out. If you address the kickdown first, then it'll be wrong when the WOT is fixed.
 
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