440 “in” Day tomorrow!

[Sonny]

Weather permitting, gonna try and get the 440/727 installed in one piece. Before I get this monster in the air, a few questions:
-do I need to remove the steering linkage behind the K member?
-any chance I can install the headers first then install all at once?
Car= 1970 Belvedere.
Note I have a mini starter, a Borgeson small ps unit, a Lokar kickdown cable, and a B&M shifter- i.e. no hard factory linkages in the way.

 

[Hilljack68]

Congrats on the pending engine drop. I just put the new 340 in my 68 Coronet about two months ago. It's an exciting moment for sure.
About the installation, I didn't have to remove any steering linkage, but that's with a small block. You'll probably not be able to install the headers first though. I had to (mostly) install the engine/tranny with the headers laying on the fender wells. Lay a couple blankets on the fender wells, lay the headers on the blankets, and tie them back with string or twine. When the eng/trans is down far enough, untie the headers and guide them onto the engine.
Good luck!

 

[davek]

I agree,I think you need to drop the headers off. You will have that engine so high in the air to get it in the engine compartment. Nice looking engine and good luck.

 

[Hilljack68]

The 340 was my first install. It was a learning experience, but fun! Make use of an engine leveler if you have access to one. It makes it so much easier.

 

[Wietse]

I have not done the job myself yet, although planning on pulling the engine at some point.
But from what i read is to lay down the headers in the engine bay, lower the engine in place and install the headers.
Steering linkage i think could stay in place, but for the ease of it i would remove it.
If it does hang up on it you are in the need to get below it and remove it...
I think it does give some extra clearance when swinging it in though.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hope this helps....
1. Usually you don't have to remove any part of the steering to install the motor. If for some reason it hangs up, then just knock loose the pitman arm & idler arm (probably won't need to do this).
2. Headers must be laid into engine compartment first. As you start to get the engine close to being installed, put the starter up "inside" the headers where it will go. Lower slightly, wiggle headers closer, lower slightly, wiggle headers closer...etc. Once the headers are in place (but not bolted up) install the starter THEN tighten up the headers.

 

[Sonny]

Hope this helps....
1. Usually you don't have to remove any part of the steering to install the motor. If for some reason it hangs up, then just knock loose the pitman arm & idler arm (probably won't need to do this).
2. Headers must be laid into engine compartment first. As you start to get the engine close to being installed, put the starter up "inside" the headers where it will go. Lower slightly, wiggle headers closer, lower slightly, wiggle headers closer...etc. Once the headers are in place (but not bolted up) install the starter THEN tighten up the headers.

I pre installed the mini starter and wired it up (disconnected it from bulkhead) on the transmission before I bolt the trans to the engine tomorrow. Is that a problem?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

View attachment 685666
I pre installed the mini starter and wired it up (disconnected it from bulkhead) on the transmission before I bolt the trans to the engine tomorrow. Is that a problem?

Starter definitely has to come off the transmission before installation unless maybe you're installing the engine/trans at the same time? I've installed big blocks in my '70 about 6 times and never did the engine/trans at the same time, so I'm not sure. I usually put the trans in first & then install the engine/headers/starter as outlined in my last post.

 

[Sonny]

Starter definitely has to come off the transmission before installation unless maybe you're installing the engine/trans at the same time? I've installed big blocks in my '70 about 6 times and never did the engine/trans at the same time, so I'm not sure. I usually put the trans in first & then install the engine/headers/starter as outlined in my last post.

Got it. I’m definitely doing trans and engine together.

 

[moparedtn]

Having had 440's in and out of my GTX three times in the last few years (and I'm running the 4 speed!), if I may:
(This is a 2-man deal! Don't be an Ed, do it safely!)
1. Headers need to be in the car, laid over in the inner fenders (something behind them protecting the paint!)
and not connected to the rest of the exhaust.
2. It's perfectly fine to have the starter already installed, especially if it's a mini. Mine is a stock Dakota starter, which is
a bit larger than the mini starters out there. Fits fine. Heck, wired up is even better.
3. You are going to be laying the tailshaft of the transmission back at an OBSCENE angle in order to clear things and get
it under the firewall, hence the 2nd pair of hands. Slow going!
Go a bit, adjust things, protect things, go a little more. Be ready underneath with a "ride" for the tailshaft once it's
down there enough because it's going to head for the floor quickly once under the firewall.
I've used a creeper, a floor jack and a transmission jack for this.
Anything stout enough for the job will do, but this is a must.
4. Make sure your helper is still alive under the car and that the tailshaft housing is still riding on it's makeshift transport.
Once the engine/transmission is substantially clear of the firewall and radiator support, get that trans crossmember ready
to take the place of your tailshaft buggy.
Loosely get that thing started on the transmission and use a floor jack to get under it; raise it up to mate with the
car crossmember and get it started over that.
Once there, final cha-cha can commence between getting the trans crossmember bolt holes lined up and those for the
engine mounts.

It's like building a big ol' model kit. Protect the firewall and protect the humans.
The rest will become readily apparent.

 

[Sonny]

Having had 440's in and out of my GTX three times in the last few years (and I'm running the 4 speed!), if I may:
(This is a 2-man deal! Don't be an Ed, do it safely!)
1. Headers need to be in the car, laid over in the inner fenders (something behind them protecting the paint!)
and not connected to the rest of the exhaust.
2. It's perfectly fine to have the starter already installed, especially if it's a mini. Mine is a stock Dakota starter, which is
a bit larger than the mini starters out there. Fits fine. Heck, wired up is even better.
3. You are going to be laying the tailshaft of the transmission back at an OBSCENE angle in order to clear things and get
it under the firewall, hence the 2nd pair of hands. Slow going!
Go a bit, adjust things, protect things, go a little more. Be ready underneath with a "ride" for the tailshaft once it's
down there enough because it's going to head for the floor quickly once under the firewall.
I've used a creeper, a floor jack and a transmission jack for this.
Anything stout enough for the job will do, but this is a must.
4. Make sure your helper is still alive under the car and that the tailshaft housing is still riding on it's makeshift transport.
Once the engine/transmission is substantially clear of the firewall and radiator support, get that trans crossmember ready
to take the place of your tailshaft buggy.
Loosely get that thing started on the transmission and use a floor jack to get under it; raise it up to mate with the
car crossmember and get it started over that.
Once there, final cha-cha can commence between getting the trans crossmember bolt holes lined up and those for the
engine mounts.

It's like building a big ol' model kit. Protect the firewall and protect the humans.
The rest will become readily apparent.

Thanks so much. Got 2 helpers and a 2 ton load leveler!

 

[moparedtn]

Thanks so much. Got 2 helpers and a 2 ton load leveler!

By George, that'll work! Have fun, be safe!

 

[1967coronet]

Everyone has their own ways, but myself I would strip the engine front, fan , alt , ps pump ect.
headers off for sure and laid in on the sides.
For me its better to separate the engine and tranny , once the engine is in have a block of wood and the floor jack under the pan, couple bolts to hold the headers on loose.

Then get the car in the air and slap the trans & convertor in along with the cross member.
If your working in a 8' garage and you get the car 15" to 20" off the floor, add in the load leveler and hook up chains plus get high enough to clear the rad support you may be cussin that trans on it install unless you have a real long lift arm on your cherry picker.
Chain hoist and tall ceiling , your good. If you have a harbor freight ect cherry picker you may be on the bumper before you clear the rad support with the engine front.
Just look it over good.

 

[miller]

Everyone has their own ways, but myself I would strip the engine front, fan , alt , ps pump ect.
headers off for sure and laid in on the sides.

That's the way I've always done. (Leave the oil filter off, too! If it's on, just farther back you have to go, before you clear the radiator support.) Always done mine with trans mounted on the engine. Doesn't hurt to leave carb, and other extras off, either.
Too easy to mount those things, once engine/trans is in the hole. Of course, leave the trans fill tube off...install it...after.

 

[Sonny]

Update. Engine went in flawlessly except A header tube is hitting the torsion bar keeping the trans mount from aligning by 1/2 a hole. Stopped there and called it a successful day. I’ll raise it up and bash it later. Thanks for all the help the last 3 months. Hope to fire it off soon!

 

[66383]

Good job, we'd like to hear it run....headers open please!

 

[Hilljack68]

Nice job! And nice looking Runner too! Now, you'll head off to work tomorrow and be completely unable to focus because you're wanting to be finishing the transplant. But heck, who isn't unfocused on a Monday?

 

[biomedtechguy]

Great work!
Great looking car!

 

[beanhead]

See! All the worry for nothing lol! Would the headers be Hookers? Mine needed a bash job to clear the torsion bar also. I had some clearance, but as the engine vibrated it would sometimes tap-tap-tap on the bar...annoying. Hammer solved it!(as did switching to TTI later on heehee)

 

[biomedtechguy]

switching to TTI

My 1 7/8" primary tubes TTi headers clear everything in my 70 440+6 Roadrunner, BUT dealing with the mini starter (or any starter) is tricky because it is caged in like a violent felon. It also is very close to the horizontal pivot shaft of the Z-bar.