440 engine build

[pipdog69]

Hello. Call me pipdog. I have a 67 belvedere II that I am planning to put a 440 in. I would like some input on what intake and cam set up would be best for my build. I want to try and get 450 to 500 hp from the mill. I will be overboring it at least 30 over unless the machine shop feels I need more. I have never built an engine from ground up on my own so this is fairly new ground to me. I would like to keep my stock heads and just have them ported if that is feasable for my hp range. I do not want to build an all out drag car, just a really strong running street beast that can eat a few bowties and blue ovals on the way to the quick stop! Want to keep the outside kind of ratty looking but I want to build it where it is really mechanically solid. It will have 727 for a trans and it has an 8 3/4 rear but I do not know the ratio. Is it possible to build this engine and drive train for around 5 grand? I know there is a bunch of you guys that have the engine and trans set-up that I would like to have so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks from a good ole Mississippi boy!!

 

[wetumpka]

I'm eager to see what people recommend as I'm in the same boat as you. I have a '68 440. I sent it to the machine shop where they tore it down, bored it .40 over and sleeved two cylinders. They zero decked it and all the other stuff. The crank is a stock forged crank. Like you, I'm also looking to get about 450-500 hp out of it and I want that nasty seat-planting torque out of it.

I don't know if you've seen them or not but Edelbrock makes a top end kit for 440's that will produce about 469 hp and 569 torque (if I remember) for about $2700. I've been looking hard at this kit since it will get me close to where I want to be. I plan to put aluminum intake, cylinder heads and other hi-po stuff in it. My engine is going into a '71 charger. Those cars are heavy as hell so in order to terrorize mustangs, the new camaro's, and even some corvettes, I need power. It's not a race car, I just want a mean street machine that can be driven anywhere and still kick butt. I had even thought about putting dual 4barrels and nitrous on it.

Let's see what advice the other guys have for you. Good luck.

 

[dogbert-22]

I too own a '71 Charger and empathize that they need a stout big-block to get all that weight moving. Check out 440Source.com, they've got some great info and their "Stealth" Aluminum heads are tough to beat for the price if you decide to go aluminum. I would put in a Comp Cam, an Eddy Performer RPM manifold, headers, and a big Holley or Demon and be done with it (imho).

 

[wetumpka]

dogbert-22, like I said, that charger is so heavy that I was discouraged about building it. The doors on that thing are ship anchor heavy. The only reaSon that I'm building it is because it's in better condition than my '69 Road runner or my '70 Barracuda. I know that the charger has to be about 500-800 lbs heavier than that road runner.

If I put a 450-500hp 440 into that road runner, it would fly compared to the same engine in that charger.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Getting 450-500 HP out of a 440 is not that hard at all and can be done mostly with factory parts. Pocket ported 906 heads are fine along with a hot cam, headers and a good intake/carb setup. No special blocks, cranks or rods are required. Just good machine work to factory tolerances including resize rods with new bolts. The only thing I would upgrade is the rocker arms and push rods. Use the iron ISKY, Crane or the factory Max Wedge types (even if you can find a good used set) and the 3/8" push rods. Nothing else is needed.

One thing about the heads that I'd like to point out. Prices to rebuild factory heads are getting up there and you can easily drop $800.00 or more resuscitating a set of 906's, or better yet, the 915's. There are the 346's and 452's that have the factory hardened seats, but as pointed out here many times, that hardness goes away with too many valve jobs so one must be careful in selecting them. The Source heads sound like a good value but as with anything you buy you should inspect before you bolt on. The Eddy package would be a no brainer but cut into the budget a bit harder.

For street use to preserve good vacuum 110-112 CL cams are good and idle well. The 108 cams make gobs of power but the power band is narrower, which requires a matched converter and gears. Also make sure your compression matches the cam!! Follow the cam MFGR's recommendations on compression ratio and you will be a happy camper.

You want to make the most average HP and torque in the RPM band that you will drive in most of the time.

 

[dantrap]

I helped build a hot street 440 over the summer using the stock crank, I'd run the H beams from 440source, Diamond pistons p/n 52002 (flat top, 2 valve relief’s, .990 pin), a STD 1/16 ring pack, main studs. I like flattops; they will work well with the 440source heads. For a cam, I'd go Comp's XTQ294S-8, solid lifter cam. It's got a little more on the exh side, and should make great midrange and high end. The 440source can supply roller rockers and push rods for you application. The new Victor intake is perfect, and the carb I'd be looking at 850 Holley, Headers should be 2" primaries. If you running full exhaust I would go with a good 2 1/2" inch system and a pair of electric cutouts. This way the car will have a good sound on the street, but with the flip of a switch you’re making power at the track, and it will fit better than most 3" inch systems. Another option I like is a hydraulic roller cam, it will pump up your HP and reduce the mantaince of the mech. flat tappet, but it will cost you. We also used and alum water pump and housing, 8 quart pan, windage tray, new oil pump all good ARP hardware. We put this combo in a 70 Roadrunner with a 727 loose converter and 3:91s and it works great. It’s a heavy street driven car that runs on 93 pump gas most of the time with a splash of race fuel at the track. good luck!

 

[pipdog69]

2700 don't sound to bad for a whole top end kit. Edelbrock makes quality stuff

 

[pipdog69]

Getting 450-500 HP out of a 440 is not that hard at all and can be done mostly with factory parts. Pocket ported 906 heads are fine along with a hot cam, headers and a good intake/carb setup. No special blocks, cranks or rods are required. Just good machine work to factory tolerances including resize rods with new bolts. The only thing I would upgrade is the rocker arms and push rods. Use the iron ISKY, Crane or the factory Max Wedge types (even if you can find a good used set) and the 3/8" push rods. Nothing else is needed.

One thing about the heads that I'd like to point out. Prices to rebuild factory heads are getting up there and you can easily drop $800.00 or more resuscitating a set of 906's, or better yet, the 915's. There are the 346's and 452's that have the factory hardened seats, but as pointed out here many times, that hardness goes away with too many valve jobs so one must be careful in selecting them. The Source heads sound like a good value but as with anything you buy you should inspect before you bolt on. The Eddy package would be a no brainer but cut into the budget a bit harder.

For street use to preserve good vacuum 110-112 CL cams are good and idle well. The 108 cams make gobs of power but the power band is narrower, which requires a matched converter and gears. Also make sure your compression matches the cam!! Follow the cam MFGR's recommendations on compression ratio and you will be a happy camper.

You want to make the most average HP and torque in the RPM band that you will drive in most of the time.

The only thing that I will be running is power steering. Manual aftermaket disc brakes all the way so vacuum should not be an issue.

 

[pipdog69]

What is the main difference between a hyd. roller cam and a regular hyd. cam?

 

[Deleted member 214]

Regular cams - the bottom of the lifter rides on the cam lobes directly. Roller cams - each lifter has a wheels/roller on the bottom. This allows for more radical cam lobes. Late model Magnums have them from the factory. Big block Mopars never had them from the factory but can be retrofitted with kits from aftermarket companies. They are a lot more expensive than a regular cam kit.

 

[pipdog69]

thanks alot bro; that help me out;now I don't feel like I am completly in the dark!