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440 low/no oil pressure

KL77

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I am having an issue with low / no oil pressure after the car has set for about 18 months while I redid all the electrical wiring and new fuel system. This is not a new build on the motor and it had 50-60 psi when parked. Car was built as a drag car and I believe has a big cam in it, but no idea of the specs. Below are the steps I have taken to fix the oil pressure issue:

1) Replaced the oil pump that came on the engine with a new Melling High-Volume oil pump (M63HV). Installed new oil pump gasket and o-ring on the pump shaft. Primed the pump before installing by soaking in oil and manually turning the shaft.
2) Changed oil with Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic 10w-40 and new Mobil 1 filter (M1-301a).
3) Installed mechanical oil pressure gauge (Autometer #3321 Sport Comp). This is connected to the driver side oil pressure port on the back of the 440.
4) Pulled distributor and can manually drive the oil pump with a Dewalt 20V cordless drill and priming tool.
5) I removed the oil filter and ran the drill. Oil poured out of the hole when drill was running, so it seems the oil pump is fully primed.
6) Reinstalled the new oil filter and ran the drill for 2-3 minutes. I am getting oil up to the port and through the nylon tubing that came with the gauge, but it only drips out of the end of the tube (4-5 drops per second). I've read that with proper pressure, it should shoot out of the tube (not just dripping). When I connected the tube to the back of the gauge and ran the drill, I can get 5-7 psi to read on the gauge.
7) Engine will start and oil pressure gauge won't go above 7 psi.

What am I missing? Could the oil galley become blocked without running the engine? How can I clean the oil galleys without remove the engine (if possible)? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am getting anxious to get behind the wheel!
 
Did you change the pump out as a result of this problem or was it changed out while the car was sitting before the problem developed? I remember some issues with problems building oil pressure after oil & filter changes due to some types of filters (didn't have a drain back valve or something).
 
Did you change the pump out as a result of this problem or was it changed out while the car was sitting before the problem developed? I remember some issues with problems building oil pressure after oil & filter changes due to some types of filters (didn't have a drain back valve or something).

The oil pump was changed due to the oil pressure being low. I thought maybe the original pump went bad after sitting awhile and I don't know the history of it. I figured for $85 bucks, it couldn't hurt. I was also curious about the Mobil 1 filter (M1-301a) causing the problem. Put those details in to see if anybody has had problems with that filter.
 
When you first saw low press. we're there any engine noises at that time? BB pumps don't go bad just from sitting, they "might" lose prime though. Maybe next step is pull the valve covers & prime with the drill again to see if oil is getting up that high. No visible leaks anywhere I take it? Oh, change the filter for the heck of it before you try the above.
 
When you first saw low press. we're there any engine noises at that time? BB pumps don't go bad just from sitting, they "might" lose prime though. Maybe next step is pull the valve covers & prime with the drill again to see if oil is getting up that high. No visible leaks anywhere I take it? Oh, change the filter for the heck of it before you try the above.
No engine noises when I fired it up...let it run for about 2 minutes before noticing there was no oil pressure. No visible leaks. Any recommendation on a filter that should work (not that the Mobil 1 filter doesn't, but can't hurt to try)?
 
it's possible to have punctured a rocker arm and tossed a tappet which will lead to very low to no oil pressure. this wouldn't make any noise and a big hydraulic cam may mask the cylinder not firing.
 
I have experienced a problem like yours. I let a 360 set for a little over a year. When I fired it I had very low oil pressure. Turns out flakes of oil residue had released inside the engine from sitting, and restricted the oil pickup tube. I recommend on your big block pull the pump, remove the valve cover breathers and use compressed air to blow back through the pickup tube. reassemble and see if pressure comes up. If so pull the engine and the pan.
 
I've heard of the pickup tube falling out of the block. (I know they're screwed in) Look or fish around in the oil pan drain hole.
Should be pretty noisy when running, rockers ect.

I know you've changed pumps or I might think check valve is stuck or dirt is holding it open.
 
KK ur right but he wouldn't be able to pick up oil when priming.
 
KK ur right but he wouldn't be able to pick up oil when priming.
Yep.

Needs to pull valve covers and useing priming tool see how much oil is getting up top.

I had to work on a 258 six banger once. The oil passage to the head was so gummed up the rockers were squeaking. Removed the rocker assembly, fished an old speedometer cable down there with gummout. Got her pumping oil up top again. Put a quart of Resloin in the crankcase and had oil pumping everywhere! That's good stuff. Two minutes later it had a rod knocking. Guess the sludge was the only thing holding that engine together.
 
Yep.

Needs to pull valve covers and useing priming tool see how much oil is getting up top.

I had to work on a 258 six banger once. The oil passage to the head was so gummed up the rockers were squeaking. Removed the rocker assembly, fished an old speedometer cable down there with gummout. Got her pumping oil up top again. Put a quart of Resloin in the crankcase and had oil pumping everywhere! That's good stuff. Two minutes later it had a rod knocking. Guess the sludge was the only thing holding that engine together.

Pulled the valve covers. I am not seeing ANY oil get to the top of the valves.

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I assuming oil needs to come out of the holes (marked with white arrows). I ran the drill for 3-4 minutes and nothing. I'm guessing it is probably time to tear it down and have it rebuilt? Should I even waste money on gummout or Rislone?
 
See post#10 again,, pull intake & take another look. Pulling engine is the last resort, "easier" stuff first is my mantra.
 
See post#10 again,, pull intake & take another look. Pulling engine is the last resort, "easier" stuff first is my mantra.

Besides, the rest of the engine will be easier to pull (lighter) after you pull the top end off first to have a look! :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I agree with "oldbee", always try the easy stuff first. Pulling the entire engine is a drastic measure and should be a last resort.
 
Pulled the valve covers. I am not seeing ANY oil get to the top of the valves.

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I assuming oil needs to come out of the holes (marked with white arrows). I ran the drill for 3-4 minutes and nothing. I'm guessing it is probably time to tear it down and have it rebuilt? Should I even waste money on gummout or Rislone?

You have to have the cam in the right location in order to get oil at the rockers when priming. The holes in the cam line up with the holes in that cam bearing, allowing oil to the port that goes to the head and then to the rocker shaft. If the holes aren't lined up, they will be closed off and no oil can go to the rocker shaft.

In order to have this happen you can rotate the engine while priming.

Another way is to have the balancer at top dead center (both valves closed for #1 cylinder). That will oil the right bank. Rotate the crank 270 degrees ( that's 3/4 the way around from TDC) and that will line up the port for the left bank.

20170910_151425.jpg
 
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If either procedure doesn't produce any results, you can remove the second to the last shaft bolt (that's where the oil comes up through from the cam) and try the prime again. With the bolt removed you can also fish a straight piece of wire down to the cam bearing and see if it's gummed up or not.
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If either procedure doesn't produce any results, you can remove the second to the last shaft bolt (that's where the oil comes up through from the cam) and try the prime again. With the bolt removed you can also fish a straight piece of wire down to the cam bearing and see if it's gummed up or not.
View attachment 513046
These last 2 posts are good. We had a new oil pump stop working from one time on a 426 hemi . The engine ran for about 45 seconds to minute, I hollered at my partner who started it and asked what the pressure was, he said none and shut it of-no harm done to bearings , we checked. Put old pump back on , end of problem. If it were me , first thing Id check is the hex on the lower end of the oil pump drive shaft, IN ADDITION TO THE LAST 2 POSTS.
 
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