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440 Six Pack Nitrous Install

PurpleBeeper

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Hey Everyone, Since I put the six pack back on my Road Runner I went ahead and put the nitrous system b1ack on. It's THE LAST six pack Cheater system built by Nitrous Oxide Systems. Enjoy! 1 Rear Carb Plate COMP.jpg2 Rear Carb wPlate COMP.jpg3 Center Rear COMP.jpg4 Center Carb Spacer COMP.jpg5 Front Plate Closeup COMP.jpg6 Front Carb Plate COMP.jpg7 All 3 Carbs COMP.jpg8 Throttle Switch COMP.jpg9 Complete Closeup COMP.jpg10 Purge Solenoid COMP.jpg11 Purge Tube COMP.jpg12 Bottle COMP.jpg13 Complete COMP.jpg14 Complete w Air Cleaner COMP.jpgPistol Grip COMP.jpg
 
That's a cool looking system. I like where you positioned the button, you might have to be careful so you don't "accidently" hit it when you're grabbing gears and end up in orbit.
 
hows it work? my pops has one of those set ups. we've talked about using it for years but never do.
 
How it works depends on who is using it. A button or a window switch or a combo there of.
Idealy you want to be at a certain rpm or higher and be using safety measures (FPSS) when using it but people will use it off idle. You need to be at wide open throttle as well and there is a saftey precaution for that too
You have wet and dry kits as well.

You need more fuel (gas) when you hit the nitrous... a wet kit shoots nitrous and gas at the same time.. a dry kit shoots nitrous and you add gas another way.. not sure how it works on a carbed system with a dry shot.. with efi you program it to work. I'm guessing some type of electric fp and stand alone tank. Nitrous is the worst most harshest thing you can do to an engine. It shocks the whole system when it hits. Its also illegal in street cars in a lot of states.

The best thing you can do if you want to use it is go to youtube and look at the nitrous disaster people have all the time...
Melting down your engine bay and nitrous explosions by inexperienced people not using proper equiptment is a good place to learn about mistakes before you make one. Solenoids are not without fault and you had beter be real good with electrical.

He has a wet kit above... the red and blue fittings are how you can tell. Fuel and nitrous. Fuel is red Nitrous blue, standard color codeing system to not mix up the lines.
I'm also guessing he has an elec fuel pump ? When the shot hits it will push gas and n2o.. But you need to maintain fuel pressure so you dont lean out and burn a hole in your piston.

His tank above needs blow off tube as well. Nitrous is cold and under pressure and the hotter it gets it expands.... it will blow the safety cap and evacuate the bottle in your car...LOL SO you run a tube from the blow off cap to the outside of the vehicle just incase it happens... youtube that one too.. people in the south do it all the time.. forget they have their bottle in the car and on a hot summer ... BAWOOOOOOOSH !


I never used a button to activate, always a window switch so that I knekw for sure all the criteria was met before touching off the n2o.

RPMS and fuel pressure are critical or you could go lean or pool and neither is good both will ruin your day and damage your engine

Window switch is an electical device that will control the delivery of the nitrous. Its a safety measure.
 
Yes, this is a wet system and I do not know of a dry system for carbureted engines. Pictures 6&7 show the full throttle activation switch (activates only if front carb is fully opened). For the nitrous to turn on it needs the activation switch on, the red button in the shifter pressed and the the full throttle switch (carbs all the way open) switch pushed by the front carburetor. I don't have a window switch, so I rely on my tachometer & don't press the shifter button until the rpm's are over 3000rpm. I've gone up 3 sizes in the center carb main metering jets. The system is set up for 2 Holley blue electric fuel pumps, but only 1 is installed right now. I think I'll need the second pump to run the 250 hp nitrous so the nitous has its own fuel pump. Yes, I need a blow down tube for the tank a bottle heater and a nitrous pressure gage too. Nitrous can do very bad things sometimes and I've blown two engines using it. One ran a little lean, melted the tips off two spark plugs and broke an exhaust valve when the fuel pump couldn't keep up and another was a big nitrous explosion when the fuel puddled in the intake manifold when I hit the nitrous off the line instead of over 3000 rpm.

Running lean (low fuel pressure or too small carburetor jets), running too low octane fuel (93 minimum & NOS recommends 100-110 octane for bigger nitrous shots), timing too far advanced (need to retard it for nitrous - I have a timing delay box installed but not hooked up yet), narrower spark plug gaps, colder heat range spark plugs, and a very good ignition system (MSD 6A w/MSD Blaster coil on mine) are all things to consider. You also need forged pistons and strong rods/crank/rod bolts.
 
99ss..you sound like you know a lot about nitrous EXCEPT where you say it is the worse most harsh thing you can do to an engine. I have been using nitrous for 25 years on race engines and street engines with NO adverse effects NONE. I have probably ran 25 bottles thru my 2005 Viper truck engine. It now has 63000 daily driven street and track miles and will use less than a pint of oil between changes. My truck is a 6 speed and I leave the line on the nitrous and have a best of 1.53 60' time with an 1/8th mile ET of 7.28. on the nitrous. This truck weighs 5300 lbs with me in it. I am on a window switch that turns it on at 3500 rpm and off at 5500.
 
His tank above needs blow off tube as well. Nitrous is cold and under pressure and the hotter it gets it expands.... it will blow the safety cap and evacuate the bottle in your car...LOL SO you run a tube from the blow off cap to the outside of the vehicle just incase it happens... youtube that one too.. people in the south do it all the time.. forget they have their bottle in the car and on a hot summer ... BAWOOOOOOOSH !

I have never had a bottle in the trunk or other hidden areas in a car/truck in summer ever blow off, since i started doing this in 85.
That only happens with heating bottles and leaving the heaters on that aren't on temp switches.
 
99ss..you sound like you know a lot about nitrous EXCEPT where you say it is the worse most harsh thing you can do to an engine. I have been using nitrous for 25 years on race engines and street engines with NO adverse effects NONE. I have probably ran 25 bottles thru my 2005 Viper truck engine. It now has 63000 daily driven street and track miles and will use less than a pint of oil between changes. My truck is a 6 speed and I leave the line on the nitrous and have a best of 1.53 60' time with an 1/8th mile ET of 7.28. on the nitrous. This truck weighs 5300 lbs with me in it. I am on a window switch that turns it on at 3500 rpm and off at 5500.

I've run nitrous on all my cars since 1983 and I've had pretty good luck...learned a few lessons, but good luck. Running lean is by far the biggest issue. I have seen 1/2-dollar size holes in the middle of forged racing pistons from lean-running nitrous. it's also very tempting to "get greedy" or "button happy" & I'd say that's a no-no. I purpously have never put in a remote bottle opener on any car I've owned so I don't start hitting the nitrous every time some Camaro pulls up next to me. In my experience, the engine water temperature goes up 20-30 degrees in a 1/4 mile when on the bottle. Supposedly head gaskets tend to blow too, but 440's are blessed with 17 head bolts and I've had good luck with the basic blue Fel Pro head gaskets. I've run many bottles on this motor without an issue, though I only ran a 150 shot of nitrous. I'm a little leary about the 250hp shot, so that's why I want the seperate fuel pump & the timing retard (+ race gas). With the 150 shot I only ran 93 octane & didn't change a thing on the motor.

The two engines I blew were both on my Mustang (sorry to use bad language). The lean condition happened because a stock type fuel pump from AutoZone can't keep up with wide-open-throttle & the nitrous turned all the way up to 150hp (stock chip in the car by the way). The original motor with stock Ford fuel pump still ran VERY well when I pulled it out at 250,000 miles (yep, 1/4-million) to get more horsepower with an '04 engine. The "puddling" of fuel issue was because the Ford SOHC motor's intake manifold is not designed to have gasoline in it and is shapped like a bucket. A dry system is probably a lot safer on that motor, but I'd be limited to 100hp nitrous shot. Anyway... good gas, good fuel system, good ignition system, good pistons, don't get greedy, no problem. A 75hp shot on my Mustang dropped 1.5 seconds off my quarter mile time.... the stuff works.
 
Pretty nice. Have you ever considered substituting the nitrous with hydrogen?
 
Do you have the part number for the six pack cheater system kit? I need to price one out.


 
Do you have the part number for the six pack cheater system kit? I need to price one out.
i think he said in his first post that they are dicontinued.just for intrest,the old"sneaky pete"systems were dry carb.they only added about 50 hp and you just jetted up a bit to run em.
 
Being discontinued is the reason that I am looking for a part number. Hoping to find some old pricing information.
 
Pretty nice. Have you ever considered substituting the nitrous with hydrogen?

Not really. Nitrous oxide doesn't even burn. Nitrous works because of the increased oxygen. Air is about 22% oxygen. Nitrous oxide is about 33% oxygen. The nitrogen & oxygen chemical bond of N2O breaks under the heat & pressure. Nitrous works like blowing on a fire or hitting the oxygen on an oxy-acetylene torch.

I have thought about using Oxygen instead of nitrous oxide..... but pure oxygen would probably melt a forged piston in 1-2 seconds.
 
I've ran N20 on about every car I've owned, including many race cars, except a couple of my pick ups & my current 479ci-6bbl 68 RR, that I might still run a system on... there are allot of wives tales & myths out there about N20... that is the truth for sure... a stand alone fuel pump or system for the N20 side of things & relays to run all the electronics, both are an absolute must... no matter what type of switching you use... the way you activate the system is really a personal deal, some people like more control of when the system come on/in than others do, I always use a manual override switch to be able to arm or disable the system always, I have activated by electronic timers or throttle switches or a window switch depending on the application it's going on, I also usually would retard the timing when activated, the amount would be determined by how much & what type of system was to be used... My last Pro-Mod/Outlaw Pro-Stock had 3 systems, carb plate kits, a spray-bar plumbed in the manifold plenum & a Fogger kit at the base of the intake manifold or a direct port kit in the combustion chamber depending on head design & motor used... before I went to a Blower & FI... there is many ways to apply the system, I used an old Jaccobs Electronics Engine Management system {modified}& a MSD 7AL w/multi step ignition retard, that were both highly modified by my partner/buddy Rob C. a electronics guru, you could set it by RPM or throttle position or time activated even, 1-2 or all 3 kits if you really wanted to or the order they came on... I have never had an engine failure or fire due to the N20 system ever, but I always took measures to make stuff safe... I would usually use a hobb switch for both oil pressure & fuel pressure that wouldn't let the system activate, if you didn't have the proper oil &/or fuel pressures period....

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it is an oxidizer & a cooling agent {-409*f}, along with pressurizing the cylinder {blower in a bottle}, never fill a bottle or let it get above 1200psi helps too, the bottle position is important too the inlet tube should always bee submerged, which usually means the outlet/fitting needs to be pointed down, a blow off valve needs to be vented outside the car... I usually had my bottles mounted at a 30* angle too parallel with the frame/front to rear....
 
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