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440 source heads

There are lots of threads here about em. I would search for posts by IQ52, he's a head / engine guru and has done tons of porting and testing of the various oem and aftermarket mopar heads. From what i've read here, they flow ootb better than most race ported oem iron heads.
 
My buddy Mr. B has them on his 440 and yes they flowed better ootb that his fully worked over 906 cast heads. Can't beat that for the price.
 
My brother has his on the 70 Road Runner with a 520 stroker. It "only" makes 500 rwhp. Since we did not get the Hemi 67 Belvedere done for Drag Week, the 70 is getting US Car Tool frame connectors and torque boxes to help with the twist.

Thanks,

Patrick
 
Yeah, IQ probably has more experience with them than anyone. From what I have followed they work well. For a while it was reported that they had crappy retainers and keepers but changing those out with quality pieces was the fix. As with any new head you really need to examine the spring set up, valve job and guide clearance, etc.. and make adjustments accordingly. However........ This leads me to another conclusion. If most of the source heads need to be touched up to make right (and that work isn't free) then you will be into them for over $1000.00? If you just want a good driver you can have a set of factory iron heads done right the first time by a good shop and have possibly under $1000.00 in those. Sure you will sacrifice some flow potential but will it really matter if you just want to have a hot street car? A cam can work around the flow issue to a point but you must choose wisely. I'm doing well with all factory parts.
 
Yeah, IQ probably has more experience with them than anyone. From what I have followed they work well. For a while it was reported that they had crappy retainers and keepers but changing those out with quality pieces was the fix. As with any new head you really need to examine the spring set up, valve job and guide clearance, etc.. and make adjustments accordingly. However........ This leads me to another conclusion. If most of the source heads need to be touched up to make right (and that work isn't free) then you will be into them for over $1000.00? If you just want a good driver you can have a set of factory iron heads done right the first time by a good shop and have possibly under $1000.00 in those. Sure you will sacrifice some flow potential but will it really matter if you just want to have a hot street car? A cam can work around the flow issue to a point but you must choose wisely. I'm doing well with all factory parts.

For APPROXIMATELY $1250 you can have almost any customer supplied, clean, factory iron heads flowing what OOTB Stealths will. This would include new 2.14/181 valves, bronze guides, valve job, surface or mill the heads, valve seals, springs, retainers and locks and the porting to achieve the flows.

To prep a pair of Stealth heads, guide honing, valve job, pushrod clearancing (mandatory with 1.6 rockers), bowl and port cleaning, surface heads, new retainers and locks, about $655.
 
Personally I think you can't beat new technology. Even if you have to prep the stealth heads I think your still miles in front of the old cast iron tech. It was good back in the day, and that raised the bar for all. Alloy heads save weight and keep cooler as alloy dissipates heat better so your better off even without better flowing ports. Look at the CFM stats with the Stealth heads or even Edelbrock Performer RPMs, don't forget the valve lift potential too. Either head on a 440 with 30' over bore (which most of us build these days, equates to 446 cubes), rev it to 6500RPM which is the max RPM power potential for the Eddy heads at least, with a M1 intake, (these are hugely underrated), and 950CFM carb and you make 500-550HP all day long. Can you say street Hemi HP?

A stock 440 bottom end will handle the RPM, even the Edelbrock supplied steel rockers and springs will take it too. Check with 440Source I'm sure this wouldn't be too much to expect as well. The real secret is air flow and mild RPM, we all know what happens when you put a 650 carb and 4BBL manifold on a stock 2BBl 318.

I've heard/read, that with a forged bottom end and stock 440 cube configuration, with good valve train setup and ported 906 heads, together with matched intake and at least 1000CFM carb, revved to 8500RPM can make 750HP. Imagine what you'd make with the alloy heads at this engine speed. Even at 6000RPM and a good size carb and single plane manifold I think you'd be surprised at what you can achieve. The 509 Lunati cam seems to be a popular combo with the Eddy heads and if your going with either those or the Source heads I'd at least get in touch with comp cams for your particular needs.

There's no replacement for displacement, the secret lies in utilizing the cubes you have correctly I believe.
 
I have used 2 sets of stealth heads on my builds, both were mild 440 builds and both stealth heads were ootb. I always have then checked and change out locks and retainers on them...I love them, plus with the weight savings it was an easy choice.

Mike
 
My thinking is this - if you spend the $655 as IQ mentions (bringing the total to $1655 for the 440 source heads), why not spend the extra $345 and get them CNC ported and completely gone through by Modern Cylinder Head for total out of pocket of $2000.

But then you get into a case of the 'might as wells' and there is no end lol.
 
My thinking is this - if you spend the $655 as IQ mentions (bringing the total to $1655 for the 440 source heads), why not spend the extra $345 and get them CNC ported and completely gone through by Modern Cylinder Head for total out of pocket of $2000.

But then you get into a case of the 'might as wells' and there is no end lol.

The far end of it is, if you really want to go racing and you already own a pair of Stealth heads, you can have your Stealth heads flowing 345 cfm (enough for 780+ HP with 451 ci) for about $1750. In order to get that horsepower from any other aluminum head, you would have to buy the heads AND have them ported also. If you don't already own the Stealth heads and you want that power range, you are better off starting with a different head than the Stealth.
 
Personally I think you can't beat new technology. Even if you have to prep the stealth heads I think your still miles in front of the old cast iron tech. It was good back in the day, and that raised the bar for all. Alloy heads save weight and keep cooler as alloy dissipates heat better so your better off even without better flowing ports. Look at the CFM stats with the Stealth heads or even Edelbrock Performer RPMs, don't forget the valve lift potential too. Either head on a 440 with 30' over bore (which most of us build these days, equates to 446 cubes), rev it to 6500RPM which is the max RPM power potential for the Eddy heads at least, with a M1 intake, (these are hugely underrated), and 950CFM carb and you make 500-550HP all day long. Can you say street Hemi HP?

A stock 440 bottom end will handle the RPM, even the Edelbrock supplied steel rockers and springs will take it too. Check with 440Source I'm sure this wouldn't be too much to expect as well. The real secret is air flow and mild RPM, we all know what happens when you put a 650 carb and 4BBL manifold on a stock 2BBl 318.

I've heard/read, that with a forged bottom end and stock 440 cube configuration, with good valve train setup and ported 906 heads, together with matched intake and at least 1000CFM carb, revved to 8500RPM can make 750HP. Imagine what you'd make with the alloy heads at this engine speed. Even at 6000RPM and a good size carb and single plane manifold I think you'd be surprised at what you can achieve. The 509 Lunati cam seems to be a popular combo with the Eddy heads and if your going with either those or the Source heads I'd at least get in touch with comp cams for your particular needs.

There's no replacement for displacement, the secret lies in utilizing the cubes you have correctly I believe.

I see a pair of Stealth heads in my future, hopefully with an aluminum 440 6 BBL setup and batt in the trunk. I'll probably go aluminum water pump housing too but not necessarily the pump itself. That's like a 100+ lbs off the front end right? With much better flowing ootb heads vs stock 906's.
 
You all keep talking about using them on a 440...I do have a block myself...but they are also really effective on a mild 383 build too. I have a set OOTB bolted up to my recent engine swap...they were also on the old 383 engine...and they are really a good fit for gaining some efficient HP. I have for the longest time wanted to graduate up to an Aluminum Headed set up and while the EHeads and Indy offerings were pretty much the only game in town, the 440 Source heads hit the mark on my budget constraints. When I got mine I had to do some push rod clearance clean up in the push rod sleeves. I just followed their directions and they turned out perfect for the amount of clearing I did. Also I didn't swap out the keepers and locks to a 10 degree set up but as I said, I am just going with a tame engine build. I think that since their entry into the market place, they are gaining a good rep throughout the industry. Evan as an off shore partially produced product. A good bang for you dollar...cr8crshr/Tuck
 
The 383 is already a great flowing engine with the 906 heads .. yours got much better
 
Stealth's They are OK... Not my 1st choice thou... I would go with the 88cc or 84 cc version if you need a little more compression Eddy Performer RPM's or even the E-street's they are the same price range as the RPM's if you want a 75cc combustion chamber to bump up your compression even more... I had the old original Stealths I had quite a few bad experiences, 440source took care of me thou, both times on the heads, the other stuff damaged I was on my own.... Like IQ52 said if you want a race head go with something else & unless you already own a set of Stealth's then have Him/IQ52 Jim & Cody port them & go thru them for you... I think the OOTB either of the Eddys are the better choice for a hot street engine... Beyond that, IMHFO I would suggest that you have "any head" you want to use, ported & gone thru completely, that's if you actually want the best HP/TQ potential out of your engine no matter if it's a street or a race engine combo,PERIOD !!

Edelbrock are 100% American Made... I prefer to buy & support our American companies... Even if I have to pay a few buck more... But that's just me, I want the best product I can have & preferably all Made in the USA, when ever possible...

440source has many other products that are also 100% Made In The USA too, just not the Stealth's, they will also do some upgrades & mods for you, if you so choose to go that rout & spend a few $$$ more....
 
Good advice Budnicks

Thanks, I've had a few great teachers, {including you} I always love your posts & especially those on the cylinder head stuff...
 
My vote, Performer RPM's . You will (in the end) pay nearly the same amount for Stealth Heads as you would RPM's. I had around $1,600 in mine, with the ARP bolt kit and gaskets. Bolted them on, and was good to go and haven't had a minutes issue with them in thousands of miles. Also, the RPM's outflow the Stealth's out of the box by a long shot 20-30cfm from many flow tests I have viewed unless you clean up the ports yourself. Both heads have the potential to overpower any stock block 440 build with good head porting.

I also am willing to pay more for American made products. Nearly all the 'Chinese' built 440 source parts I have bought, have either broke or are of poor quality. Can't even torque my oil pan properly from them as the thickness of the aluminum is too thin! I have purchased so many parts, 2-3x over that me and my father have vowed to ONLY BUY AMERICAN MADE PRODUCTS! This goes for tools, etc. You really get what you pay for 99% of the time.
 
Still waiting for some more reports about the 75cc E Streets. I'd be interested to know things like flow rates for them against Stealths and RPMs if anyone knows of any links to such info.

The only thing I don't like about any of the Edelbrocks are the angled plugs and possible fitment issues with my Hooker headers. I've been told they can be made to work with some dinging here and there but it seems like a big chance to take.

The Mopar Performance version of the RPMs have straight plugs but they cost even more than the RPMs. I think the least I've seen them go for is $1800 from an Ebay retailer.

I talked to Ed Viceroy (Junkyard Ed) a well-respected SoCal BB Mopar head porter and he said he could do me a set of 906s, CC'd to 86cc that would outflow the Stealths for $900 out the door. I mentioned my 452s and he said he wouldn't port them for me, called them "truck heads".
 
Still waiting for some more reports about the 75cc E Streets. I'd be interested to know things like flow rates for them against Stealths and RPMs if anyone knows of any links to such info.

The only thing I don't like about any of the Edelbrocks are the angled plugs and possible fitment issues with my Hooker headers. I've been told they can be made to work with some dinging here and there but it seems like a big chance to take.

The Mopar Performance version of the RPMs have straight plugs but they cost even more than the RPMs. I think the least I've seen them go for is $1800 from an Ebay retailer.

I talked to Ed Viceroy (Junkyard Ed) a well-respected SoCal BB Mopar head porter and he said he could do me a set of 906s, CC'd to 86cc that would outflow the Stealths for $900 out the door. I mentioned my 452s and he said he wouldn't port them for me, called them "truck heads".

get some header plugs like the shorty's from Accell... I have had a few sets of headers & had no real fitment issues with the angle plugs either & I always run a Nomex DEI sock over the plug ends anyway... The E-Street is the same as the Port design & valve sizes as the Performer RPM's, but Idle to 5500rpm instead of 6500 rpm, I think it because of lessor springs etc., but with a smaller redesigned {84cc or} 75cc Combustion Chamber "form what their site says" @ www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/cylheads/chrysler/main_chrysler_bb.shtml , I don't remember what other differences, They were originally offered for $779.00 {or something like that, to compete with the Stealth's price point, but I think expenses &/or cost overruns in engineering, to produce them, just killed that} @ Summit & Jegs, but something happened in production, I called & checked on their progress a few times, talked to the tech guys @ Edelbrock... I haven't used any yet, I would have on my old stock383ci to bump up the 8.8:1 compression with the rebuild pistons, that it came with when I bought the car...

- - - Updated - - -

They are $1400+ now for a set...
 
Since they are pretty much the same price as the RPMs, I think I would just go with the tried-and-true RPMs then if I went that way.
 
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