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440 valve train question

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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I’m a few weeks away from rebuilding my 440. I’ve purchased 440 source stealth heads, new stock pushrods and stock stamped rockers. I also bought the K6401 cam from summit racing. Will the lift of this cam allow me to keep these stock components (pushrods and rockers)?
Sonny
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Sonny, what does "check the fit" on the Summit ad tell you?
Mike
 
Even though 440 Source heads are supposed to replicate factory heads, I'd do a quick check on instal as for pushrod length. The rocker arms should be just fine w that lift. You can also call 440 Source and ask. They are always very helpful if you understand engines. They just don't have time to give a complete class on function.
 
I used stock rockers on my K6401 cam. No problem Just make sure to run some good oil like VR1 20w50 which is what I have in the engine.
 
The last thing you want is pushrods that are too short. I'd say you'll be fine as long as there is some preload on every lifter when its sitting on the base circle of it's respective lobe. Ideally you want about .025 of preload on each lifter but that's impossible to measure without a "checker" pushrod. Hydraulic lifters are pretty forgiving as long as the pushrods aren't too short.
 
Do not assume your stock pushrods will be the correct length for the proper preload. Check it carefully as per manufacturer specs. Custom length rods are available from reputable sources as suggested by other members in one of your prior threads regarding cam/lifter choice.
 
You will be fine on lift. I run a 519/530 lift hyd f.t. cam with stock stamped rocker. I have over 55,000 on this engine so far. As mentioned just double check your push rod lengths.
 
I realize this is an old thread but I spent a lot of time and $ sorting out the rockers on my stealths. Save up your $ and buy Harland Sharps for Edelbrock Heads (SHPS70016KE or SHPS70015KE) Geometry is way better, tip centered on valve etc. standard geometry rockers are way off with these heads. With isky irons, crane irons, and the std geometry Harland’s that summit recommended, the contact pattern is way off towards the lifter valley. Shaft shims ( bad) were no help. Edelbrock style Harland’s are right in the middle of the valve stem.

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What you need to understand is that in the static closed position the rocker tip is closest to the shaft (valley area). As the valve opens the tip travels away from the shaft and outwards. Having a tip that sits in the middle of the valve in the static position is not necessarily a good thing. And a lot depends on your valve lift ... i.e. using the same rocker a cam with .500 lift will have the same starting point as a .650 lift cam but at mid and max lift the contact points will be vastly different.
 
I was referring to the scrub pattern after painting valve tip with dykem blue. Stock geometry rockers were way off and the pushrods rubbed the heads as a bonus. Eddy style rockers fixed both issues.
 
Congrats on using the BH springs. If me, I will always use iron or steel rockers over alum rockers, even it it takes longer to set them up.
 
I suppose if you wanted to spend a fortune to remachine the heads so they would have the correct geometry with iron rockers, you could. It’s not a pushrod issue and I doubt you could shorten the valves enough to fix it either. Some guys spent a fortune machining heads to have custom shaft mounting blocks to solve this issue. Harland Sharp decided to make rockers specific to these style heads for a reason. I’m just sharing how I solved this problem so others can easily avoid my pain.
 
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I know that Michael's valvetrain geometry correction "proposal" can be "controversial" but I am fully on board with his explanation, the reasons why there are inherent problems with proper geometry, and that it involves more than clearance and "good valve stem scrub".
I have very little personal experience with this arena, but I have the ability to use critical thinking, and I deal with problem solving every day in my work.
I paid "the extra" not only for the correction kit that was made for my application (cam specs were required, along with the kind of heads I am using) but for the T&D roller rockers, which I could have purchased either similar or possibly identical rockers, but my understanding based on asking several times and in different ways, these rockers are made specifically for B3E for the way he puts it all together.
Regardless of the minutiae, I am confident that my valvetrain will be setup to the pinnacle of perfection, and that means maximum performance and longevity, and likely will also result in little need for lash adjustments.
 
I think you'll be fine with the parts you have. There is no reason to spend a ton of money on aftermarket rockers for your setup.
 
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