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$500- 68 charger

daytona kid

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I have made a few posts in other areas, asking questions,. but I thought I would start a thread for my project in the proper area..
I am going to race this rust bucket after restoring it, but will be leaving out a lot of unnecessary stuff. I am going to save all the stuff I take off in case I ever sell it or want to put it back stock. I plan on a 500hp or so motor. I've got it pretty stripped down, putting in new floors, roll bar,. and I am adding to the welding of the framework to make it stronger. Patching small rust spots, etc.. Just about ready to bead blast.

http://s1284.beta.photobucket.com/user/daytonakid/library/68 charger
 
You owe someone who helluva christmas gift for selling you that for $500!
 
I had been looking for one on the internet and everywhere else- 68, 69, or 70,. And was not having much luck. A co-worker/mopar fan found this one a block from where we work. Some things seem "meant to be".
 
I ordered a Jegs 8pt bar today, along with one of their racing seats so I'll be able to fit it all together right. And I ordered some torque plates from US Car Tool.
 
Looks like you've got a good start on it. We'll be watching your progress. Nice big shop to work in too. Have fun...
 
Glad you started a thread, You have a good jump on it already, good luck, looking forward to watching/reading your progress! The 68 is a great year Charger and price sure is something.
 
Thnx guys. I pretty much live in my shop,. I bought the house 20+ years ago because I saw it had a 30'x24' garage and told the real-estate lady I wanted to buy it before I ever looked inside the house., ha.

I welded up the holes for the trim on the vinyl top since I won't be going back with one.
http://s1284.beta.photobucket.com/user/daytonakid/media/68 charger/IMAG0901_zps6bfca255.jpg.html

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I have decided to hold off on putting the interior floor pans in due to my new plan of welding the 6x6 plates for the roll bar/s to the best spots and don't want the floor in the way while figuring that out. But I also don't want to put the roll bar in before putting it on the rotis. So I guess now I will have to fix the tail end (where it attaches to the rotis), because the last foot or so of the rear main rails is rusted out bad. I am planning on (in this order) inner reinforcing the bad areas of the rails with 2.5 ft or so of square tubing that I will weld inside them,. patching and skin-covering caps on them, while replacing the main tail-lite panel and it's lower valance, then mini tubing new wheel wells while side skinning the quarters, then replace trunk floor. I think if I do these different jobs one at a time that it may insure that nothing gets crooked or miss aligned. Does this sound like a good plan to you guys? If anyone has a better plan of attack or suggestions plz let me know.
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Well after seeing hunt2elk's thread and how easy he made the wheel well repair look. I have decided to not do the mini tubs, for now anyway. I thought I needed new wells but it will be a lot easier to just repair the old ones like he did.. I ordered some full length rear frame rail caps. So I will prep for those and patch the old well edges now.
 
I would say as long as you are making sure everything is secure to avoid any misalignment then you are doing things in the right order. Everything looks like it is coming right along.
 
Looking good - and familiar.
 
Looks like its coming together nicely, hope you get the weather for that blasting!
 
Thnx guys.. We are getting an ice storm today, so some blasting may be tried in my shop with tarps and exhaust window fans going. And Yes RR, I am about to buy some angle iron to do some bracing and being very careful with alignment issues.
 
Thats a good idea you came up with there, they would come in handy a lot the way you built them!, I have a gravel floor lol, I don't think this is an idea i can use myself.. I think it was around 25-30 bucks at Auto Zone for a small floor jack and two of the same stands, I only wanted the jack to carry around in my car but you cant never have enough stands around. Hope things are coming together good on the Charger..
 
Subscribed I will be following along since my 74 is rusty too.

I have heard that "POR 15" is THE best product for dealing with rust, after blasting. Auto Zone has it.

I removed the rear-end and springs. The work on the rear rails/trunk was making everything a little to flimsy,. will be adding temp bracing soon. Getting rid of all that weight seemed like the next thing to do. I wanted to leave wheels on as long as possible to keep it rollable but I guess I'll end up making a rollable dolly table stand out of some stout steel soon. My jackstand/dollys are good but I'd feel safer with it on something better. Rottis will come later. Will be removing K member and front end soon. Going to buy 2 more $35 big jackstands tomorrow to get the front end up.

http://s1284.beta.photobucket.com/user/daytonakid/library/68 charger
 

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