62 Auto to Manual

1962 - 1965 Mopars

  1. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    What parts are needed to convert a 62 Dart to an A833 4 speed?

    I did some research but I want to be sure before I commit.

    Does it have to be b-body A833 from a specific year range?

    It looks like Brewers has parts available if you contact them.
    I imagine used parts are out there.

    Are certain parts used only, like shifter handle, floor hump, etc?

    I know I'll need a new driveshaft, and I'll need to find a rearend.
     
  2. moobster

    moobster Well-Known Member

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    I just did this.
    You need a 727 slip yoke(small u joint style)
    53.5" driveshaft length(center to center)
    Any, B body Transmission
    Tunnel hump (I've seen pics where the metal hump is mounted on top of the carpet, and these are supposedly original cars)
    Speedo cable. 68 Camero fits perfectly, has correct ends, and $7 @ Rock Auto
    Your rear end should be fine.
    Clutch/ brake pedal assembly, torque shaft, rods, fork and fork pivot (62-65)Brewers

    Hope this helps, Mark
     
  3. Fran Blacker

    Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Yes a slip yoke b-body trans . You didn't mention engine size, BB go with 7290 or 1350 slip yoke and u-joints or if future plans for a BB. You may need a combination u-joint on rear diff.
     
  4. moobster

    moobster Well-Known Member

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    On mine, the 1350 yoke was about 1/8" clearance from hitting the tunnel. Under torque I figured it would hit. I went with the small yoke and a Spicer ujoint, and there is still just, enough clearance, to get your finger between the yoke and the tunnel.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2018
  5. matthon

    matthon Well-Known Member

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    Great info. Haven't decided on BB or SB. It's a spent 318 poly now, not sure of the rear, it's not an 8 3/4.

    Do the b-body trans have 2 shifter mounting pads?
    I have a bench seat, what shifter handle works?
    What's the going rate on pedals/linkage setup?
    Is the tunnel hump specific to 62-?
     
  6. moobster

    moobster Well-Known Member

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    The tranny can have 2 shifter locations, not always, you need the one that is closest to the trans main body.
    On mine the ball is about 4" back from the shifter its self, and about 10" up. That and a competition shifter, works with the bench seat.
    The proper shifter handle for the 62-65 cars, is pretty cool looking, but it's long.
    I think you need to jump in the back seat, while getting it from 1st to 2nd, and then start running toward the dash, to get it from 2nd to 3rd, and run back to the rear seat for 3rd to 4th. The 1st to 2nd shift is the worse, cause you still need to use the clutch pedal. the original shifter works better with buckets cause there is a narrow space between the seats to run back and forth through.
    Don't know $ on the pedals. Mine was a 3 on the tree, so I had the pedals.
    Brewers has the tranny humps, look them up, kinda unique.
     
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    • khryslerkid

      khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Z bar and frame bracket
       
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      • moobster

        moobster Well-Known Member

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        Hey KK, looks like the crowd is getting old when we're the ones that are still awake on a Saturday night...lol
         
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        • khryslerkid

          khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Probably later up your way. 11:00 pm here. The older you get, the less sleep you need.
           
        • khryslerkid

          khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          Had to look it up, heck its the same time!
           
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          • moobster

            moobster Well-Known Member

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            Up Here??? I'm 26 miles, across the lake from Erie PA. I'm still riding my motorcycle!!!
             
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            • matthon

              matthon Well-Known Member

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              Any of you awake people have a pic of a 4 speed shifter installed with a bench?

              Or know if the hump is specific to a year, or even needed?
               
            • Dibbons

              Dibbons Well-Known Member

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              I recommend a firewall brace. I ran one from one of the master cylinder bolts to the shock tower. In the foto you can just barely see it (a black tube right below the master cylinder on the right) going behind the fenderwell header.

              65 Valiant4.jpeg
               
            • maxwedgechar

              maxwedgechar Active Member

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              Be careful of the 2nd to 3rd shift. The ashtray will eat your knuckles!
               
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              • matthon

                matthon Well-Known Member

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                I now have an A833 and a 383.
                The trans has no stamp pad, slip yoke output shaft, 23 spline, and it's definitely a b body trans.
                That would mean it is a 66-67 trans and has a 4.35 IBR.

                So, looking for clarity on what I will need:
                • 10.5 bellhousing, Brewers BH513R-S
                • 130 tooth flywheel
                • 7290 slip yoke, Brewers TY8335, based on clearance mentioned above
                My other question is the 4 speed floor hump, is this really necessary?

                I've seen original cars with it over the carpet, and it isn't small and it wraps over the tunnel to the passenger side, but my understanding is those are not the same trans/shifter as mine.
                Also, new carpets are listed for manual or auto, so are they really covering that big hump with carpet?
                I can't imagine the shifter will sit that high, and the one pic I found of a 62 4 speed with the carpet over it, looks smaller and flatter than the 'correct' hump.

                And of course new driveshaft, shifter, clutch parts, more money, etc.
                mopp_0203_04_z-1962_dodge_dart-interior.jpg Screenshot_20181030-165540.png Screenshot_20181212-131414.png
                 
              • Fran Blacker

                Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Did my 65 without a factory hump My engine is set back an inch or so. I'd do the factory hump, bolting trans in or I think would be easier. Did mine to 1965 Dodge 003.JPG tight to shifter and removed shifter 1/8 turn of one bolt at a time. Drilled a hole in side of hump to put that bolt in and used a body plug to cover hole.
                 
              • matthon

                matthon Well-Known Member

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                Is that a diy hump?
                I've done a few 4 speed conversions in the past and the boot would just be at an angle on the side of the tunnel.
                It's hard to justify $250 smackers for a hump that looks like overkill, because it is, and it's supposed to go over the carpet, and really just for those max wedge clones.
                 
              • Dipstick

                Dipstick Well-Known Member

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                Check out how the factory did the tunnel on the original floor-shift '62.

                Petesmwunder.jpg
                 
              • Fran Blacker

                Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                DYI hump yes. Pulled trans to change front bearing retainer seal. Lowered engine so oil pan was just off cross link to remove upper trans bolts. Set engine back an inch or so that inch or so engine set back made it a bear to clear trans crossmember to remove trans. That's the problem with homemade engine mounts. Made pattern of 66 hemi k frame mount and welded them to the k frame in my 65 which moves the motor back causing issues.
                 
              • bigaadams

                bigaadams Well-Known Member

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                that first pictured hump look more like what is stock on the miser series Dodge pickup trucks of late70s early 80s that utilized the A833 OD setup
                 
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