• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

62 Trans Help/Buttons

FlagCraig

FlagCraig

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:18 AM
Joined
May 19, 2015
Messages
531
Reaction score
518
Location
Tennessee
Okay so I get the car back after getting headers on it and some minor maintenance stuff.

Drives great and smooth. Like a champ. I have her looking pretty nice for a driver.
Getting ready to take out early evening last night and the neutral push button on dash (all buttons somewhat flimsy when I recently bought the car) gets stuck all the way in. I crawl under dash to see if I can work it out with no luck. I believe it could be disconnected from the main switch that works all the buttons.
I can get car in drive and reverse but it seems like it's struggling to get into gear.
Do I need to take the whole box out from under dash....any experience in doing this?
I would also like to make the buttons feel stronger when I press them not flimsy. Can this be done also?

Then after I get the car in gear she starts rattling/clicking as if I'm dragging something down the driveway. My initial reaction on this is could I have an exhaust leak because that's what it sounds like. Because I am having trouble with buttons could this be related to the transmission? This sound is new to me on this car. It's a fast clicking noise.

So I have two problems and I don't know if they are related.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Do all the instruments come off with the face plate?

I know on my other Mopar they do.

Thanks.
 
Now that I think about it maybe there is just a plate over the button area and not the whole instrument panel. Roger that.
 
I'm wondering if the cable is on a bind, with installing the new headers?
Did they have to remove the cable from the transmission to install the header and not reinstall it properly?
The clicking might be the gear selection out of adjustment. Don't drive it!
Activating the park leaver should place your buttons back to natural.
 
Yeah when I put it back into park the Neutral button did not move. Stayed pushed in. I do believe it is disconnected from the base of button system (dash). I'm gonna pull the face plate off tonight.
I had the shop I use install headers. I'll look tonight if I can see any cable unhooked or out of place.
I won't drive it till I figure this out. That clicking has me a bit nervous to drive.
 
Here's what you're dealing with. It's a mechanical device without any adjustments. It can be removed and cleaned, lubed. The buttons are held in by a barbed connection. Care has to be taken removing them as not to mess up the plastic piece or they won't stay connected when reinstalled.
This is one I have for parts, one button is missing

20160429_151148.jpg
20160429_151220.jpg
20160429_151322.jpg
 
Good Pics. Thanks. I think my neutral button is disconnected. I'm wondering if it can't be reconnected can it be welded.

Is it difficult to pull the whole thing out if needed?

How hard was it to find your back up (spare) device?
 
Post up a pic of your dash/shifter,you might have to remove the cluster to get to the shifter. I use a 64 shifter that has a removable cover

3.13.16 081.jpg
 
PBTrans1_zpse5bade8c.jpg
"Do I need to take the whole box out from under dash....any experience in doing this?
I would also like to make the buttons feel stronger when I press them not flimsy. Can this be done also?"

No. You shouldn't have to remove the mechanism pictured above. The buttons are plastic so there will be no welding involved but perhaps some gluing. First you'll remove the lower dash piece. Get your allen head wrenches out and remove the "park" and the "heat" knobs. Second remove the four screws across the face plate and gingerly slide it off the levers. Shop rag on the column will avoid scratches. Next you should be able to see into where the buttons attach and hopeful discern the problem. If it is not present there should be a felt "bushing" that holds all the buttons in place. If this felt seal is missing the buttons will feel awfully loose. There should also be one holding the heater button together. you can get an idea of what I am talking about if it is there. I would be curious to see the routing of the cable after the header installation as well. I too suspect binding of the cable.

Without hearing it myself I would guess that the rattling and clicking you hear is the PARK sprag not disengaging. Be very careful! Potential damage to the transmission if this engages at 55mph.
 
Last edited:
abloch said:
View attachment 334414 "Do I need to take the whole box out from under dash....any experience in doing this?
I would also like to make the buttons feel stronger when I press them not flimsy. Can this be done also?"

No. You shouldn't have to remove the mechanism pictured above. The buttons are plastic so there will be no welding involved but perhaps some gluing. First you'll remove the lower dash piece. Get your allen head wrenches out and remove the "park" and the "heat" knobs. Second remove the four screws across the face plate and gingerly slide it off the levers. Shop rag on the column will avoid scratches. Next you should be able to see into where the buttons attach and hopeful discern the problem. If it is not present there should be a felt "bushing" that holds all the buttons in place. If this felt seal is missing the buttons will feel awfully loose. There should also be one holding the heater button together. you can get an idea of what I am talking about if it is there. I would be curious to see the routing of the cable after the header installation as well. I too suspect binding of the cable.

Without hearing it myself I would guess that the rattling and clicking you hear is the PARK sprag not disengaging. Be very careful! Potential damage to the transmission if this engages at 55mph.
Click to expand...
after the neutral button locked up on me I pulled back in garage. Had a hard time getting into park. Back and forth a couple times with park lever before it engaged. I will remove dash piece in morning and take a look. Thx
 
Cables are either bound up or out of adjustment. The shifter itself is a pretty good piece, seldom an issue. The only problem I've seen is the fork that holds the button gets spread and the button falls out. Tighten with a pliers as needed. Make sure the cables aren't melted. Find a 62 -65 service manual a follow the adjustment procedure for both cables. Make sure the cable isn't bent right at the shifter itself. When they adjusted and not binding they work perfect. Both my son and I race 9 second cars with the stock push button shifter.
Doug
 
Headers installed?? Before you take the dash apart take a look at the shifter cables under your car. See if the park cable casing is melted to the header. Just a guess. Don't ask me how I know.....
 
If the buttons feel flimsy it could be that the felt seal is damaged or non existent .
The felt seal has holes in it and it pushes over all the switches (heater too) and keeps the buttons firm without slop. It is placed under the chrome face plate.

image.jpeg

Update .I see alboch already mentioned this
 
Last edited:
What can I loosen up the housing assembly with? It's stiff and worn a bit. Seems like all the parts are there. Is it best to use wd-40 or some other type of spray lubricant? She's tired and cranky and needs adjustment.

Thanks.
 
You can try spraying the shifter mechanism with wd and see if it helps. Wd does dry out after a short time.

Did the cable look ok? Not melted to the header or routed in such a way that it is on a bind?

The adjustment is made at the trans. There is a procedure. I'll see if I can find it and get back to you.

Here's a link regarding the shifter and park cable.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mopar-push-button-transmission-park-cable-tech-tips.html

In this second link, scroll down to "Adjusting Transmission Shift Cables method one"
(what is above this section is pertaining to console shift adjustments.)
Method 4 is the best but the others can work too

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html
 
Last edited:
Just an FYI. The shift cable adjustment procedure is different for '62-'63 t-flites compared to '65. I'm not sure about '64 trans but my guess is it's the same as '65. At least based on the service manuals the adjustment procedure is different. When I first installed the '65 trans in my '62 I adjusted the cable as outlined in the '62 service manual. Nothing worked right. Then John Kunkel from another board advised me that I needed to use the adjustment procedure that matches the year of the trans. Problem solved.
 
Thanks guys. I ordered the Service Manual for 1962 off eBay earlier this week. Just waiting for it to come in before I do any heavy lifting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

VANDAN
Help on Steering Columb Horn Mechanism
Replies
16
Views
903
VANDAN
VANDAN
Michael R
Push button tranny problem
Replies
2
Views
435
Michael R
Michael R
fourgearsavoy
Aftermarket heater for 64 Savoy
Replies
4
Views
725
5.7 hemi
5.7 hemi
GrumpyGuy
  • Locked
WTB 66 Charger Heat/AC push button sleeves
Replies
4
Views
427
GrumpyGuy
GrumpyGuy
Timmayy
65 Belvedere heater controls
Replies
3
Views
1K
dave's not here
D
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top