63 Drive Train ?

1962 - 1965 Mopars

  1. Small Block

    Small Block Well-Known Member

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    ive got a 63 Belevedere 3 on tree two dr hardtop and some questions, not to be the last I'm sure. I've aquired an OD 4 speed and curious if this is a direct bolt up or are modifications necessary? On the old rear end, it's the nut on the end style and without the correct tool it's a fun job getting the drums off. I rented the right tool. Will a later model 8.75 fit right up or will I find issues that will need to be addressed? Thanks for any and all replies.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
  2. Moparguy59

    Moparguy59 Well-Known Member

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    Bell housing different probably,clutch size,shifter clearance?
     
  3. Small Block

    Small Block Well-Known Member

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    With the 4 speed I also got the bell and the shifter but not sure if the later model bell will fit up to the poly. I'm really bad about trudging thru virgin territory but I guess if it was easy everyone would be doin it. I'm sure there will be someone that will chime in and if not I'll post my finding after I wade into it.
     
  4. chignikred

    chignikred Well-Known Member

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    The 65 to 67 "B" rear end housing is direct bolt in.
    you dont mention what engine car has.
     
  5. khryslerkid

    khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    • Small Block

      Small Block Well-Known Member

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      The engine is a 318 poly. I have no issue with changing out the whole rear end. I can cut off and move spring perches if need be. Would an early B body rear be the same dimension as a late model rear? I'm a, "If I can see it I can build it" kind of guy.
       
    • khryslerkid

      khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      1962 and 1963 had the narrowest housings on a B body. Anything newer will be wider.

      https://www.bigblockmopar.nl/tech/mopar-rearaxle-dimensions/
       
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      • 63SPF

        63SPF MOPAR 4 LIFE ! MOPAR OR BUST ! PLYMOUTH'S RULE ! FBBO Gold Member

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        Put an a body !!! Stop messing around and do it right !!! haha

        20151207_091742-1.jpg
         
      • Small Block

        Small Block Well-Known Member

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        Good info Kid. Looks to be 1.625" larger for a late model unit. Should be something that could be resolved in the backset of the wheels. .8125 per side. I'll check measurements of spring perch locations. Keep it coming guys. I do have a "F" body sure grip unit.
         
      • matthon

        matthon Well-Known Member

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        I kept my tapered axle, pulled hubs/drums, bought stock brake hardware and pads, NAPA studs BK 641-1128, and 65 brake drums.
        Drums go on and off now without a puller while axle/hub/studs stay put.
         
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        • khryslerkid

          khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          1" narrower perch measurement.
           
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          • 63SPF

            63SPF MOPAR 4 LIFE ! MOPAR OR BUST ! PLYMOUTH'S RULE ! FBBO Gold Member

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            Was easy as pie !
            Even shorten one for my 67 Barracuda

            20181016_105037.jpg 20181016_105021.jpg 20181016_105014.jpg 20181016_104946.jpg 20181016_104918.jpg
             
          • Darter6

            Darter6 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            I'm not 100% sure,but the small block later bell will bolt up ok,only one bolt hole,bell to block is off. My memory is a bit foggy on this.
             
          • Centerline

            Centerline Well-Known Member

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            There is no reason to swap out your current diff. All that's required is some minor mods, that have already been mentioned to allow easy brake maintenance. Read my article http://hotrodsandhemis.com/TaperedAxleBrakes.html and it will describe in detail this easy mod.
             
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            • matthon

              matthon Well-Known Member

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              I did that mod on my 64, napa studs, 65 drums, all the stock brake hardware is available, easy peasy.
               
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              • khryslerkid

                khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                I almost went that route on my '62. The only problem was that the rear had an open center section and I was replacing it with a sure grip. I needed the shorter axle for the swap or have them machined. (The open center section axles are longer, the sure grip axels are shorter on these). Looking at a couple of options that I could have taken, I went with the Dr. Diff tapered axel to the flanged axle conversion. Had to go with the newer style backing plates also. Around $400 invested. Just sharing some info on what else can be done with these dinosaurs.

                Centerline, I'll say it every time I see your article, Thanks for your efforts, great photos and instructions on doing the drum conversion! :thumbsup:
                 
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                • matthon

                  matthon Well-Known Member

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                  Of course!:BangHead:
                  Is this 62 only?
                   
                • Small Block

                  Small Block Well-Known Member

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                  Centerline, I can do that. Thanks for the replies folks. The 4 speed seems to be longer than the 3 speed and there's the trunun drive shaft and tail piece. Looks like a new driver shaft is in order. I've got info on the tranny swap and cross member location is mentioned. Possible relocating.
                   
                • khryslerkid

                  khryslerkid FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  A Chrysler 8-3/4" Rear Axle Guide, Part II
                  Section 1: Thrust Block Variations
                  There was a difference in thrust blocks prior to 1964 that make center section interchange, as well as axle interchange problematic. The thrust block, or "axle shaft thrust spacer", it thr block that both left and right axles butt up against inside the center of the differential. Prior to 1964, all open differentials used a thrust block was approximately 1/8" to 1/4" thicker than units made after 1964. The Sure Grip thrust block prior to 1964, however, was indentical to all 1964 and later Sure Grips and open differentials. In 1964, the thrust block width was changed to match the Sure Grip thrust block width.

                  This difference in thrust blocks between Sure Grip differentials and open differentials required that two different axles be produced for each 8-3/4" housing manufactured. This is true of all 1959-1963 cars with 8-3/4"s.

                  A 1964 and later differential, or any Sure Grip differential, cannot be used with 1959-1963 rearends and axles originally equipped with an open differential. The original axles must be machined or original Sure Grip length axles must be used.

                  https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/875axle.shtml
                   
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