64 2 Dr Polara exterior door lock not working properly

Ski 61701

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Quick question regarding the exterior door locks on a 64 Polara. I can lock the door using the key as it is designed to do. However, when you push the exterior door handle button to test to make sure the door is locked, the door unlocks. Does anyone know if there is a "timing" of the position of the exterior lock linkage on the lock itself when it is attached to the lock mechanism in the door itself? Other than fighting the clips when reassembling the lock to the door, it was pretty straight forward. Last question, are the locks side specific, I'm not thinking so, but stranger things have been known the happen to me. I could not find any specific info regarding locks not locking in the FSM. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

khryslerkid

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This happens when the door is closed?

The normal way they work is you can only use the key to lock/unlock the door when closed. If you push the button down with the door open and close it, the button will pop up. From the inside with the door closed you can push the button down to lock the door and when pulling on the inside handle the lock button pops up and the door opens.

If any of these things don't work in this manner it could point you in the right direction. Maybe the rods are in the wrong locations?
 
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Dave6T4

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The door locks are side specific. The lever that the linkage attaches to should point to the rear of the car, inside the door.
 

Ski 61701

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The door locks are side specific. The lever that the linkage attaches to should point to the rear of the car, inside the door.

I will unhook the lever and swap out the exterior lock. They may have been accidentally swapped side to side over the years . So if I understand things correctly when I put the lock in the door, I need to make sure the lever that is attached to the lock is facing to the rear of the car, and then hook the bottom linkage to the mechanism down inside the door.
 

Ski 61701

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This happens when the door is closed?

The normal way they work is you can only use the key to lock/unlock the door when closed. If you push the button down with the door open and close it, the button will pop up. From the inside with the door closed you can push the button down to lock the door and when pulling on the inside handle the lock button pops up and the door opens.

If any of these things don't work in this manner it could point you in the right direction. Maybe the rods are in the wrong locations?
 

Ski 61701

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If I lock the door with the key via the outside door lock the interior button drops down to show in theory it is locked. But as soon as you push the exterior door button to test it, the button then unlocks the door as if the lock never "locked" the door. Just a tad frustrating to say the least. Thank you for the insights.
 

Ron H

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Had similar issues on my ’63. Double check the linkage making sure they’re attached and clipped. Elementary, sure. But, look for any bent rods that may cause the linkage to bind or not travel fully to move the lock lever to full-lock position. Can do this by watching the action of the lock inside the door while turning the key. Could be the button moves down; but only part way.
 

Dave6T4

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You might have the lock knob screwed down too far on the top piece of linkage, preventing it going down far enough to fully lock the door.
 

Ski 61701

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You might have the lock knob screwed down too far on the top piece of linkage, preventing it going down far enough to fully lock the door.
I have the door card off and I can see linkages moving and nothing appears to be binding. I did look at the other exterior door lock and on the back side I see that it has "RH" stamped on it to me this means passenger side door. I feel like a 12 yr old here, but the lock knob, you are referring to the chrome plastic piece that screws on to the linkage itself? When I lock the door the knob moves down, it doesnt appear to be excessively down, or up for that matter.
The linkage from the lock to the door latch is the same for both sides nothing appears to be bent. Im going to unlatch the bottom part of the rod at the door latch and turn the exterior lock so the lever is facing rearward and try to reattach. I know it is going to be something simple, but lately my brain feels like the old this is your brain on drugs as the eggs are frying. Everyone who has responded thank you for your time and help, I truly appreciate it.

Steve
 

Ron H

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Sounds right, RH = passenger door. When you checked the operation of the lock lever, it worked as it should like the left door (you say works fine)? Do you have a FSM to view this?
upload_2022-5-24_15-0-7.png
 

Ski 61701

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Sounds right, RH = passenger door. When you checked the operation of the lock lever, it worked as it should like the left door (you say works fine)? Do you have a FSM to view this?
View attachment 1288927
Yes, I have a FSM and I popped the door lock out and the part # (if you want to call it that) is the same as the passenger side door. So on the door lock itself there are (2) holes in the lever that the locking rod attaches to. Initially I had the locking lever rod in the hole at the end of the lever. I moved the rod into the hole closer to the pivot point and no difference, I can still push the outside button and unlock the door. Here is a pic of what I am working on. Now I did unhook the handle to lock link lever for clarity purposes. I can't believe this is kicking my rear.

doorlock.jpg
 

khryslerkid

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@Ski 61701

In this video there are two things happening. One is if the lock button isn't down completely it will pop up using the button in the handle.

Second thing is if the door latch isn't in the second position it will also pop up with the handle button. There's two positions on the door latch. Pushing on the door slowly to close it you should hear one click then a second click on the star wheel. If the catch is adjusted too far in you'll only get one click and that won't allow the lock to stay engaged. It's on the second click where it will allow the lock to fully seat.

 
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Ski 61701

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@Ski 61701

In this video there are two things happening. One is if the lock button isn't down completely it will pop up using the button in the handle.

Second thing is if the door latch isn't in the second position it will also pop up with the handle button. There's two positions on the door latch. Pushing on the door slowly to close it you should hear one click then a second click on the star wheel. If the catch is adjusted too far in you'll only get one click and that won't allow the lock to stay engaged. It's on the second click where it will allow the lock to fully seat.


THANK YOU!!!! This makes sense now. I have door closed flush with the quarter panel, I am not doing a "hard close" because I do not have the windlace installed, just rubber door bumpers. Once door is closed it doesn't wiggle in and out, but I will manually trip the catch mechanism once door is open to hear the "second" click. THANK YOU A MILLION.
 

Ski 61701

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Well after pulling my hair out on the reason why my doors would not lock, I figured it out. Several years ago I bought Mopar authorized reproduction door handles. They look great and actually have a little more "heft" than the oem ones. So fast forward to the current. I started looking at the solid metal arm that connects from the exterior handle to the lock mechanism itself. Upon close examination, the trip lever was just "barely" engaging the star wheel on the lock mechanism itself. I took the handle off and sure enough, the design on the pivot pin on the new repo handles is about an 1/8" of an inch too high. I was able to take the old parts off of my oem handles, and with some dremel grinding on the repo handles (inside of course) there were several tabs that the repo handles had that should have been open design but repo more or less just overlooked and they had to be removed in order for the oem pivots to fit flush. Once I reassembled and hooked everything up, doors now function as designed and lock!!

So moral of the story here is to triple check stuff with the oem. The pic I attached is the best I could do to show the height difference, the oem is on the left and repo is on the right. Its not much, but enough that it didnt work as designed. I hope I save someone else from the grief I went through.

Steve

latch.jpg
 

Ron H

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Not the first time some aftermarket parts DON'T fit correctly. More irritating I've contacted the suppliers more than once to inform them. Crickets.
Good to hear you figured it out.
 

Ski 61701

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Well sad to say....supposedly NO to the overseas junk we normally get. Here is the box they came in.
Not the first time some aftermarket parts DON'T fit correctly. More irritating I've contacted the suppliers more than once to inform them. Crickets.
Good to hear you figured it out.
Yes I have been victimized so many times on this project its sickening. I know I am not alone when this crap happens.

box.jpg
 
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