64 Polara Build Begun

1962 - 1965 Mopars

  1. wheatdog

    wheatdog Active Member

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    Figured I'd start posting progress. Bought a 64 Polara 500 that supposedly needed no body work. BWAHAHAHA. Underneath 150 lbs of undercoat, the driver's side subframe was "repaired" with microthin sheet metal. I burned off the cheesy welds and removed what turned out to be the entire subframe section from the center piece to the rocker panel. Inside face of rocker panel also paper thin. Overlaid same with 3/16's patch and fabbed up a new frame section using a subframe overlay kit which I sectioned, welded and installed as the all new sub. The replacement sheet metal is thicker than 3/16 but not quite 1/4, 7/32 maybe?? Fully boxed the whole thing for additional strength. Next I'll be adding the same overlay kit to the passenger side and subframe the front to rear using US Steel kit. Also will box all four corners at firewall and rear wheel wells. I don't enjoy welding so, at this stage of the project, I'm not having fun.

    Got my Coan 10" 2800 stall conv in the mail last week. Waiting on the HP Street trans from the "727 Specialist". $3500 up in smoke. AAARGH. Anybody want a pushbutton trans. It works but it's tired. It'll be in the shed gathering mouse poo next month. The old 413 will be keeping it company by spring. Still planning the 512 B block build. 4.25 x 4.375 with EZ max wedge CNC ported etc, etc,$$$$$$$. Geez, I stopped road racing cause it cost too much; now look what the hell I'm doing.

    Someone replaced the original rear end with a later piece that's slightly wider with a 742 center. I'll install an old t-loc that's been sitting under the bench since my last Mopar project. If it holds together, fine. If not, I'll drag a Dana 60 out of a pickup truck and start over.

    More to come but it'll be slow. Wrecked my back at the gym last month and picking up anything over 20 lbs makes lightning shoot out of my butt.

    More to come eventually,

    Wheatdog


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    • RGC440

      RGC440 Active Member

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      727 trans

      Wheatdog,

      How much for the old transmission? If reasonable, I want it.

      Thanks
      Rick
       
      Last edited: Nov 29, 2015
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      • dvw

        dvw Well-Known Member

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        $3500 for a 727? Should have called me. There's no way that you need much over a stock pieces at your intended power level. The Push button could be used as well if you so desire.
        Doug
         
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        • wheatdog

          wheatdog Active Member

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          I have no idea what it's worth but I'll let it go cheap. My ph # is 985-792-1376. Like I said. I'm kinda tore up now so it'll be a month or two before I can pull it.

          Wheatdog

          - - - Updated - - -

          That's 3500 for the trams and the converter. The Coan piece was expensive but necessary.

          Wheatdog
           
        • lxmodguy

          lxmodguy Gen3 Hemi Guru

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          post up some more pics. good luck with your build
           
        • RGC440

          RGC440 Active Member

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          That timeframe will work great, I will call in the next few days.

          Thanks
          Rick
           
        • Centerline

          Centerline Well-Known Member

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          I'll be watching this thread with interest as I'll be starting on my '64 Polara build in the next few weeks. Although mine is an Alabama car I still expect to find some of the same issues with rust. Good luck with your build.
           
        • wheatdog

          wheatdog Active Member

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          Back pretty much healed up so I can work with heavy stuff again. Got the subframe in on the driver's side and I'm now reinforcing the stock subframe on the passenger side. Hope to finish all reinforcement and subframe install by the first week in Jan 16. I dislike welding so this is a huge PIA.

          Ordered my shortblock from muscle motors: 400 block with 4.25 stroke and 4.375 bore. Ordered the new Trick Flow 240 heads instead of the ported Indy EZs. Saved over $1000 and they flow 95% as well. Be a couple of months before all this stuff comes in the mail and I start install.

          Gotta order adjustable rocker arms now. Looking at the Com Cams pro magnums. May have an issue due to my valve springs being 1.55" and Comp's website says they only fit with max spring OD of 1.54. Might have to go with the Huges aluminum ones. Ya'll chime in if you have experience/sage advice in this area. More crazy money going out for these.

          More later with pics once I start installing cool stuff.

          Wheatdog
           
        • Schober Motorsports

          Schober Motorsports Well-Known Member

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          Would really love to see some pictures of those new Trick Flow heads when you get them!
           
        • wheatdog

          wheatdog Active Member

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          Longblock is finished but have to put an aftermarket high volume oil pan on it. Once that's done I'll start the drivetrain swap. Here's the 512 thumper with Trick Flows, Hughes rockers and Quick Fuel 850. Unfortunately, I'll have to pull the car out of the garage to do the swap and it's Africa hot outside right now. Don't know how anyone survived in Louisiana before AC.

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          • eric383

            eric383 Well-Known Member

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            Should be fun when you get it done. Good luck.
             
          • wheatdog

            wheatdog Active Member

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            Well, haven't updated in quite a while. The Polara is up and running after much effort and $$$. 512 in the engine bay but had to remove the carb spacer for hood clearance. I'm not going to punch a hole in a perfect hood. May get a fiberglass piece later that I can chop up to my hearts content. TTI step headers installed with TTI intermediate pipes with xover. Modified 727 installed with Turbo Action Cheetah SCS shifter. Cable is tight between trans and tunnel but I made it work and kept it away from hot pipes. Large secondary trans cooler hung in front of the radiator. Had to cut the radiator support frame 1.5 inches on each side to install larger race radiator with electric fans. I tried everything(i.e wasted $$$) and there was just no way I could keep that 512 cool with the stock dimensions. $1800 later it stays at 185-190 with 95 deg summer heat in stop and go traffic. Beautiful work from Wizard Cooling.
            Front suspension got reinforced stock lower control arms (which I welded up myself), adjustable lower control arm struts and Tubular uppers with larger torsion bars from Firm Feel. New ball joints, Tie rods, idler arm, and stock lower control arm bushings installed. Borgeson power steering box installed and works great but my power steering pumps are giving me trouble. I'm on my second one and haven't figured out the problem yet.
            Rear suspension got new front leaf spring hangers with reinforcement plates, new rear shackles with urethane bushings and caltracs (threw out the pinion snubber) . 742 center section got new Eaton Tru Trac with 3.73 gears and a 4" aluminum drive shaft connecting front to rear with1350 u joints.
            Boxed the body with kit from US Steel and installed subframe connectors. I do all mechanical work buy have body work done by local guy. Hes a whiz with sheet metal but does "OK" paint work. Replaced rear lower quarters and both inner and outer wheel wells. Got rid of all the bondo and BS that was put on the body in the last 52 years. He had to fab a lot of the inner wheel wells and did a beautiful job. Paint work came out OK but could use to be resanded and another shot of clear put on. But for $7500 I think I did pretty good. He took it down to bare metal not just an overspray. Installed new windshield and rear window seals. That's another PIA job! After the subframe work was done I replaced the front floor pans and patched the passenger side rear pan. Thank The Lord the trunk was still good cause I'm pretty sick of welding. Only work left is to reinstall the interior and finish the AC system.
            The car is scary fast and I never floor it without "getting ready". At lower speeds the tires just go up in smoke, at 40 and above your over 100mph by the time you loosen your death grip on the steering wheel and look at the speedo. Will go to the track eventually and get some real info. Having fun meanwhile and the dollar drain has almost come to a halt.
            Wheatdog
             
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            • 64sleeper

              64sleeper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Awesome Wheatdog, Im doing a very similar build. Only difference im doing a 9 inch and haven't decided on what size stroker im going with. whos rotating assembly did you go with? and what size radiator and what water pump do you have?
               
            • wheatdog

              wheatdog Active Member

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              I had the short block done by Muscle Motors. Its B block with 4.25 stroke. Very nicely done. Check out their website and read the intro on how they build their stuff. Normally I build my own engines from the crank out but the quality of machine work around here is questionable. Not gonna spend big bucks on ???? block work. I got a high output water pump but don't remember the brand. Check the Wizard web site for mopar radiators. They've got units to fit the stock crossmember or large by huge as needed for custom install. Mines 26x19 four core with two mega fans that will almost pull the car like aircraft propellers.
               
            • 64sleeper

              64sleeper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Lmao thanks, I'll look into both their stuff. It's going to be a cruiser and I want 0 overheating issues
               
            • bearman

              bearman FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              wheatdog, nice looking 64 tell us about the color.
               
            • 383man

              383man Well-Known Member

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              Sounds like you have done a great job on her Wheatdog. I am curious who you priced the Indy EZ heads from that cost $1000 more then the trickflows ? I used the basic Indy EZ heads and bought them from Dwayne Porter. He just opened them up to Max Wedge size and I got them for a good price. The heads were about $1800 and he charged me about $300 more for minor porting and setting up the springs to the right installed height and pressures. I got a good deal from Dwayne on mine. Course I built my eng in 2011 before there was any trickflow heads. I also use Hughes roller tip rockers and they have worked great so far for 8 years with no problems at all. I also had to replace my front floor pans in my 63 but that was the only metal I had to replace.

              Glad to hear yours is coming along so good. Do you plan to race your car any and use it as a street/strip car or is it street only ? And would love to see some pics of it. Take care , Ron
               
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              • wheatdog

                wheatdog Active Member

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                Once I figure out how to resize photos, I'll post pics.
                 
              • wheatdog

                wheatdog Active Member

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                The original front fenders were pretty well shot on the car so I ordered another used set in good shape from a Mopar junk yard. Found out after the car was painted that I got 330 fenders not Polara. They're identical except the trim holes are different. Crap!! Now I get to redo the front fenders for more $$$. Oh well, if I want to finish it, pull out the wallet again.
                Car continues to destroy the back tires anytime I punch the throttle. Even 50% lights em up. Don't see how I can do much at the dragstrip with street tires. Guess I'll have to get some slicks if I want to play at the track. If the tires hold, I'll need to learn how to launch the beast and keep the front down. Don't want to pound my 7qt oil pan if it wheel stands (extends below front xmember). Need to add the front crossmember pan protector anyway.
                Will install the interior this month. This car has a truckload of trim inside as well as out. The clear coat has a pretty good amount of orange peel which which could be remedied with a clearcoat respray but now I'd have to strip all the trim again. PIA! I gonna run it like it is for now. Finish isn't too bad and I'd like to drive it some.

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                • PRND21

                  PRND21 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  Looks good! I’d drive it.
                   
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