650 AVS 2 lag for a half Second if I kick him hard

[Moparjack 489]

New 650 AVS 2 on my mild 440 cui in my 73 coronet station wagon runs out of the box nearly perfect in all conditions, only if I kick the pedal to the metal as quick as I can I get a lag about a half Second because it’s goes lean to 20 AFR for a 1/4 Second .
Any suggestion to fix it?
Accelerator pump linkage i put already from middle to top hole . Nozzle is stock setting 31 . I not sure makes sense to Try a 35 nozzle Because the lag is so short and only if I kick him very quick . Maybe have to live with it ?

 

[69L48Z27]

More accelerator pump is the only thing I can think of too. Since you have AFR data, open it it and see what happens.

 

[Woodruff Carbs]

Secondary air door tension.

 

[Darter6]

^^^^^Yep, That's why they made 'um adjustable.

 

[dvw]

Move the accelerator pump rod to the hole closest to the air horn. I've fixed a few this way.
Doug

 

[Moparjack 489]

Move the accelerator pump rod to the hole closest to the air horn. I've fixed a few this way.
Doug

This I had done first after the first drives out of the box , because stock was middle hole , I put already in top hole . But thanks

 

[Moparjack 489]

@all I switch it now from 31 to 35 pump nozzle , and after the first test drive 5 minutes ago it’s feels and show on A/F display much better . I on the right way I think . Now o think you guys right , it’s seems if I quick accelerate only in first 1/4 1/2 of Pedal way all fine, only if I put the pedal quick like pedal to the Metal ( secondary’s Open - air door too ) , it ‚s still have a very short lag ( half sec. Or less ) and shows me on AFR short it’s lean full out . Now I try to get the secondary air door spring half turn stiffer and try again!

 

[Moparjack 489]

By the way , one more question , because I a little wonder . I check today vacuum on the carburator ports in idle .
First the manifold vacuum port on the driver side , and shows me in idle about 10 in Hg vac what I expected . After I check the timed vacuum port on the passenger side and it’s shows me in idle also 10 in HG vac ! Is this normal ? Before o think the timed vacuum port must have in idle 0 in HG vac , and start with vacuum after I switch from idle to cruise .... anyone know ‚s what’s right or wrong ?

 

[Joske2]

You use to much of the transition slot. How much initial timing do you run?
You have and use a vacuum can on your distributor?
Always ignition first then carb.

 

[Moparjack 489]

You use to much of the transition slot. How much initial timing do you run?
You have and use a vacuum can on your distributor?
Always ignition first then carb.

Thanks , exactly this what you say I was consider ,that’s mean I have to less timing in idle ? And my idle set screws is to far inside , right ?


Timming in idle unter 10 actually , but I try many timming curves already .... also with the stiffest black springs ...
only what I really wonder on this distributer is the different Plastic keys for set the degree of advance , the keys start with 14 degree and end with 28 degree . But if I adjust the slot with the 14 degree key, they advance curve ist about 20-22 degree ... that’s I really wonder .


I have a firecore distributer ( Race without vacuum can )
But the timing is my biggest problem on this 440 cui , because it’s a pinging 440 since it build it , never get it 100% away , and try many things , up to reduce compression and but one stage hoher cam inside, but still pinging there . But this is a other story .
I also change nearly everything to try to run cooler , better ignition. And and and .... no way piniging not go , maybe in the days there was „ refreshed“ and build it new up they make some ****, it don’t know it. I know only the pistons look it over the deck of the block a little .

 

[1967coronet]

Just me but I would try to cure that detonation / ping before anything else.
I know MSD and Fire core ect are all the rage but mabey try a mopar distributor with vac can and see if you can tune the detonation out of it.
Or If your engine wire harness wont hook to a mopar electronic distributor Try a points style with a pertronix conversion and coil.
Detonation and the { lag also } I think are coming from your ignition.
Im no pro but thats what I would try.

 

[oldbee]

Crank that secondary air spring about 1/2 turn tighter, then try it.

 

[myk r sanchez]

Don't all engines lag for a moment if you mash the gas pedal?

 

[Woodruff Carbs]

Don't all engines lag for a moment if you mash the gas pedal?

No

 

[Moparjack 489]

Crank that secondary air spring about 1/2 turn tighter, then try it.

I had done it yesterday , and it helps ! Yes

 

[Moparjack 489]

Just me but I would try to cure that detonation / ping before anything else.
I know MSD and Fire core ect are all the rage but mabey try a mopar distributor with vac can and see if you can tune the detonation out of it.
Or If your engine wire harness wont hook to a mopar electronic distributor Try a points style with a pertronix conversion and coil.
Detonation and the { lag also } I think are coming from your ignition.
Im no pro but thats what I would try.

Before all the changes it was a stock mopar distributor in it , with can etc . It was very bad , pinging more and with can connected no driveabel . After I start change to fire core distributor , take also orange box out and msd coil out and change to revnator ignitation and so on .
I also of course drive closed crossover and so on. This Motor still have a littoe too much compression I think . And have maybe change to the next bigger head casket

 

[Moparjack 489]

You use to much of the transition slot. How much initial timing do you run?
You have and use a vacuum can on your distributor?
Always ignition first then carb.

Today I try to get no vacuum on the vacuum Timming port on the passenger side of the AVS2 .
It’s absolutely no possible , because if I go to zero vacuum on this port I must reduce my idle set screw so much that I must give about 23-25 degree initial Timming ( the engine run on this in idle not bad) but I not can drive this pre ignition because If I habe 25 degree by about 700-800 rpm I will have about 35 degree at about 2000 rpm .
I only not understand why it s on my engine not possible to reduce the set idle srew as much as I get the proper amount of the transition slot ?
And other thing I really wounder ist this damn Plastik key from this fire core distributer for adjust the slots for the mechanical advance !! If I use the thin one with 14 degree of advance what I use it today, the advance is not 14 Degree is more about 20 or 22 degree .
is this normal ?

 

[BSB67]

Taking your spark plugs a couple steps cooler might help the ping, and a 160 thermostat.

 

[Moparjack 489]

Taking your spark plugs a couple steps cooler might help the ping, and a 160 thermostat.

160 thermostat already installed , helps a lot because as a rule if I can see 180 degree Fahrenheit water temp or higher is very very sure he want ping , specially not in high rpm’s in full advance , no he mostly try to ping very short under load when he went from second to third gear in kick down because rpm drops , and it’s drops to like 2700-2800 it will ping for a 1/2 sec

 

[BSB67]

160 thermostat already installed , helps a lot because as a rule if I can see 180 degree Fahrenheit water temp or higher is very very sure he want ping , specially not in high rpm’s in full advance , no he mostly try to ping very short under load when he went from second to third gear in kick down because rpm drops , and it’s drops to like 2700-2800 it will ping for a 1/2 sec

Lower rpm ping under load that clears up as rpm goes up might be tuned out. Look into the plugs.