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'66 & '67 heater controller rebuild

VFilms

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As it is nearly impossible to find '66 & '67 heater A/C controllers - '68 and newer will not work and if you find the proper one be prepared to take a second mortgage - I have been forced to rebuild mine. I am in no way an expert on this but have done a couple with success. So here goes.

Before I started, I marked the orientation of the cover to the body of the controller with a sharpie. Very important to assure all the components go back together properly when you remove the components. When you lay out all the components make sure they stay within this orientation

1 & 2- Though there is no part number on this controller, it is for a '66 and '67 B Body - I know because of the placement of the electric terminals.

3 - Start by grinding down ALL the plastic tabs that attach the cover to the body. I used a Dremel with a pointed grinding stone.

4 - GENTLE pry off the cover and place to the side in proper orientation to the body of the controller.

5 - Separate the cover from the body. The retainer on the left is for the vacuum and on the right is electric. The arrow points to little plastic tabs that hold the covers in place. You may be able to gentle pry the covers off without disturbing - breaking - the tabs. If not, the cover can be glued back in place. They are under a small amount of spring tension, which you will see later.

6 - Centered are 4 plastic sliders that control the vacuum and electric. Please note the small tabs on the top. They fit into the openings shown circled in photo #5.

7 - Remove the sliders by pulling up and out. Assure that they are not separated and stay in order.

8 - The plastic sliders laid out. Very dirty.

9 & 10 - Remove the slider actuators. These are connected to the push buttons on the front of the heater-A/C controller. Note the electrical tabs on the top and bottom. The tabs make contact with the internal connectors for the A/C compressor.

11- Clean electrical tabs on both sides of the controller body as well as the tabs on the sliders.

12 - Again, the retainer on the left is for the vacuum and on the right is electric. The arrows point to little plastic tabs that hold the covers in place. You may be able to gentle pry the covers off without disturbing - breaking - the tabs. If not, the tab can be glued back in place.

13 & 14 - On the vacuum side is a metal cover, spring and rubber block that directs the vacuum between the VERY small vacuum holes. The small spring retains pressure against the cover preventing, hopefully, vacuum leaks.

15 - Remove the 3 pieces taking note of the sequence: rubber block, spring and metal cover. Note, when removing the rubber piece, one side is flat, the other side is grooved for directing the vacuum.

16 - Remove the cover for the electric. Pay attention to the orientation of the indents in the square plastic switch housing and the…

17 - Electric connector and spring.

18 - Clean the cover, removing any old grease.

19 - Cleaned body housing and sliders

20 - Clean the center electrical connector. I used steel wool and 800 sandpaper to assure a good connection.

21 - This cover has a broken off nipple. Using a super glue to your liking reattach the nipple.

22 - Be sure to run a small object through the vacuum nipple to remove excess glue assuring vacuum throughout that nipple - I used a bent staple

23 - Again, clean the button housings and clean the electric terminals…

24 - Insert them back in the body housing. Be sure to use a dielectric grease to allow for smooth action of buttons and good electric connection.

25 - Apply a small amount of dielectric grease and re-install the electric connector. Important: Make sure the orientation on the connector is right. If not, the small square slider will not fit properly and the small buttons on the metal jumper will not make contact as required. The spring goes on top of the metal connector tab.

26 - Install the small rubber vacuum distribution block in the metal casing with the spring placed in first. Note the 'channels' in the rubber block. They direct vacuum.

27 - Reinstall the covers. Note: The cover on the left fits securely as the tabs weren't broken. The cover on the right needed to be glued back in place as one of the tabs were broken when removing the cover. A small amount of super glue near where the damaged tab is should be sufficient. I clamped in place while drying as the cover is under a small amount of tension.

28 - Reinstall the cover to the body assuring the square holes on the cover components line up with the tabs on the plastic sliders. Because the tabs - circled - that secure the cover to the body were ground down to remove the cover, the cover needs to be secured either by applying a small amount of glue, or by drilling out the tabs and inserting smalls screws. I prefer screws, but it's more work.

Also, I have been asked why '68 controls won't work so below are diagrams of what I have learned about the differences. I say they don't work, but I imagine you can get them to work by inserting the power wire from the battery to the proper connector and leaving the 'constant power to fan' connector unused.

Lastly, I know there are some people/companies who do this professionally. If I am incorrect in any of this please make the needed corrections. Just trying to be helpful.

Control rebuild.jpg Control rebuild 2.jpg Control Rebuild 3.jpg Control Rebuild 4.jpg power inside.jpg power switch outside.jpg
 
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That's a very detailed set of instructions. But with my luck of trying to do projects like that I think I'm going to see if I can have it rebuilt by the other guy who's info was posted. But thanks for your help.
 
Guys that's a great write up,but if you are a little intimidated let me rebuild it with new machined parts. I've been rebuilding them since 1996. I have switches all over the world.
[email protected]

IMG_0731.JPG extra parts.JPG IMG_0733.JPG
 
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