66 Charger - input if you have any?

General Mopar Tech Discussions

  1. REcharge

    REcharge Active Member

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    My friend and I have started a project together. I am as it were mostly clueless when it comes to the motor head department. On the other side of that is the completely clueless motor head that can not function on the internet or any other tech - aka my friend lol.

    Our 440 engine and 727 transmission "need" to be completely rebuilt. He thinks our engine had mud wasps making nests in it 0o... we haven't torn into it yet.

    Anywho the question I have is there any good options for engines from other vehicles that would be easy to swap in / would save us money in the long term for a potentially expensive rebuild... I do not yet know if our engine is the original from the car and we kind of doubt that it is.
    IMG_20200224_083540.jpg IMG_20200224_083627.jpg IMG_20200224_083443.jpg IMG_20200224_083519.jpg
     
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    • Mike67

      Mike67 Well-Known Member

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      I think you need to establish what your budget really is. Is this a flip or are you going to keep it? What are your performance goals, paint, body ect?
      Building cars, pretty much, from scratch is not a profitable business when you calculate everything, time labor and parts.
      There are deals to be had if youre patient and watch the classifieds.
       
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      • Don Frelier

        Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        I for one don't believe they put 440s in a 66.
        Any big block would work:
        361, 383, 400, 440
        How do you know the transmission needs a rebuild?
        Looks like a decent charger, nice interior
         
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        • Fran Blacker

          Fran Blacker FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          You guys better be GOOD friends.
           
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          • Moparnocar

            Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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            361's are cheap, lopro 383's and 413's

            Rebuild the trans your self, actually pretty easy and some good books/vids on it
            I've got a 66 Charger project for sale in MN ( see the ad section) rusted, but fairly complete looking for $4900 OBO. Rebuilt trans, and a warmed up 413 with 30,000 miles. I'm not parting it, but you could buy it, get the things you need ( engine/trans/trim) and part it And make money. Part are rare
             
          • davek

            davek FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            Just a heads up this is an expensive hobby,these cars love to suck the money out of your wallet. What happens when the car is done? Building a car with a friend,think twice about that. I want to keep my friends so be careful and good luck with the build.
             
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            • Moparnocar

              Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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              These are very wise words ...... As long as no one feels taken advantage of, or not carrying their part of the deal... Most important tho, have fun! It is a fun hobby
               
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              • 70chall440

                70chall440 Well-Known Member

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                IMO building a car with someone else is an invitation to problems in the long run. It sounds like neither of you have a ton of money to dump into this all at once, so that means a long term build. If you are going to do this, KEEP SUPER ACCURATE RECORDS of who spend what at a minimum.

                I will second the comment about the money, these cars are absolute money sponges. I don't know what you have in mind for the end result, but I suspect your vision is going to be a long away from the reality. How much this is going to cost is very dependent on your skill level, smart shopping and buying the right parts. To make it a runner (meaning something you can start up and drive) you obviously need a drive train (engine and trans), you have some options ranging from rebuilding what you have to buying something new; the potentially cheapest route is to buy something that runs and works now. I say potentially because it is very easy to get something that might run but not very well or have hidden problems.

                Then there are the other systems such as brakes and electrical system which will need some attention to one degree or another.

                Look, this might seem daunting and it can be, but if you take it one step at a time, and make good choices you will get there in time.
                 
              • REcharge

                REcharge Active Member

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                I hear you. I am putting up all the money in the end we want to resell it and do it again. I've got a spread sheet and I keep tabs on all expenditures including lunches. The goal is to at least break even. If we can make a couple bucks that's cool too. The budget is whatever it has to be. =)

                I read on another forum that they had RV engine's that were also 440s any thoughts on something of that nature? Will it be too different to work?

                440 is definitely 1 of the factory engine's that came with these.
                 
              • JimCoronette

                JimCoronette Well-Known Member

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                Not sure of your budget, but as I see the car now, what I would do is:

                Rebuild the 440/727 you have. At least you know what you have in it rather than buying a mystery motor/trans that might have the same or bigger problems.

                The exterior/interior look to be in driver condition. Clean them up and leave them as is for now.

                It will probably need all new brakes and fuel system.

                Get it running and stopping so you can drive it and see what else it needs.

                Here is the sequence I used on my Coronet:

                https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showcase/1967-coronet-500-convertible.5184/

                I can drive and enjoy it and I don't have $50K into it.
                 
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                • YY1

                  YY1 Well-Known Member

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                  Nope.

                  No 440's in 66 Chargers.

                  67 is the first year for a 440 powered B body.

                  Any A or LA small block (373, 318, 360), big block B (361, 383, 400). or big block RB (413, 426, 440) will fit in that engine compartment with no work other than the correct motor mounts, transmission, exhaust, and accessories.

                  400's and 413's tend to be cheaper as far as big blocks go.

                  There is an issue with torque converter balance. Suggest you look that up.

                  318's in good running order can even be free.

                  I don't see where anyone has mentioned that the VIN of your car tells you what engine it was built with.

                  Yours starts with XP29. The next letter is the engine size.
                   
                  Last edited: Mar 3, 2020
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                  • Moparnocar

                    Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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                    I bought a running low mile motors for my cars. Usually around 800. Just parts and me doing the work would be more that that, and even more if you need machining. If your new, check out Uncle Tony on YouTube. Lots of good budget build vids
                     
                  • Don Frelier

                    Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    A quick way to identify a big block:
                    Distributor in the front. IMG_20171019_221405655.jpg
                     
                  • REcharge

                    REcharge Active Member

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                    Thanks appreciate all the great reply's. I'll get us in the build forum here eventually. What's opinions on keeping it the same color or not? Or color's from that year?
                     
                  • hunt2elk

                    hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    This is just my opinion, so don't take any offense. You will be upside down in your car as soon as you do any body/paint work. First generation Chargers just don't bring the money that second gens do, or other 68-70 B-bodies for that matter. Not trying to discourage you, but you won't get your money out of it.
                     
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                    • Moparnocar

                      Moparnocar Well-Known Member

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                      He is correct, I just finished my 67. It was body wise, about the same shape

                      I had a thread about paint on here, so no one needs to tell him " I pay $2500 for a paint jobs all day"

                      I did all my body work, put it in epoxy primer, and STILL was getting quotes for 8-10,000 , me putting it back together. You MAY find someone around 5000, but that's you doing ALL the work

                      I ended up doing vinyl wrap. About 800 in material, about 1 hr per panel install. Prep took the longest time

                      I DO NOT want to discourage you, I hate when people do that to me.

                      But that car painted, running/driving is a10-15,000 car depending on ALOT of variables. VERY hard to keep meat on the bone at those prices ( I know, I have 2)

                      That being said, I applaud you guys for giving it a shot, and doing this research first! This site is great
                       
                    • Demonic

                      Demonic Well-Known Member

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                      How did they get in? Exhaust removed? Intake?

                      As others have said, Mopars will get you upside down in a hurry. Don't take it apart needlessly. Get it running. A/C car makes it worth more, but if the system needs work, it will suck up $$$. 66's are cool - electroluminescent dash, radio and console lighting. All that and the headlight motor system also vacuums cash. Get it to start, stop, turn and try to make money selling it then, leave the details to someone w deeper pockets who knows the market. Don't take it apart needlessly.

                      But rattle can that green fender grey if it's a 66-67 fender. :eek::D
                       
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                      • REcharge

                        REcharge Active Member

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                        Nope not discouraged good thing to have in mind. Thanks
                         
                      • YY1

                        YY1 Well-Known Member

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                        Looks like it's YY1 medium bronze poly.

                        I'd leave it.

                        ...but then I'm partial.
                         
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                        • JimCoronette

                          JimCoronette Well-Known Member

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                          I would keep it the same color. You might get away with not having to do the jams and engine compartment if the paint is in good shape.

                          Look into a local Maaco. If you give them a stripped shell they might be willing to do paint and bodywork in the $5K range.
                           
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