Ben Zajd
Member
Hey, so I am new to working on cars, (I am 27, and my father was not really a grease monkey so I only learned car maintenance basics from him). I am learning as I go here so bear with me, but need some help with my timing (sorry in advance if I provide over information but i feel like its better to cause less questions from those trying to help me than when most people don't provide enough information lol).
Background on car/issue: I have recently bought a 1966 Dodge Charger, non original LA318 (assembly date on block is Nov 1976). I have plans to redo everything and drop a 360 in it down the rd, but want to get it reliably driveable until i build the 360. I have been doing a lot of maintenance on the vehicle that has been neglected. But it still runs like crap. Feels sluggish at anything above 3,000 rpm. I don't think my carb is working properly (old Carter 2 barrel), the mix screws don't appear to do jack, and to keep the engine running when putting it into gear i have to have the idle basically turned all the way up else i have to two foot it on the gas and the brake to keep the rpms up when I come to a stop. I do know there is a small vacuum leak on one corner of the gasket seal between the carb and manifold after doing the carb cleaner spritz test, but I'm unsure of the state of the carb components anyways and likely needs a rebuild, in the meantime while I learn how to do a carb rebuild, I happen to have a brand new 4 barrel edelbrock carb sitting in a box that I am going to put on it with a 4 barrel to 2 barrel adapter plate (not looking for a lecture here about this, been told there should be no problem doing this especially since I am not really looking to throw performance parts on the 318 that this carb setup would hold back, and just as long as I turn off two of the jets it should be fine to run so I can take my time learning to rebuild a carb on the carter and still be able to cruise around). However, Someone mentioned I should make sure my timing is right first though.
I've researched and understand the principals of timing so no need to explain basics and I have the tools and tape set on the balancer. What I need help with is what should my total mechanical timing be set to and what would be a good initial timing be after that is set? Not being sure what is original in the engine bay on this car I am having trouble figuring that out. I am unsure of what the mechanical advance and the advance curve is on the distributor currently but I can calculate that out once I get home today. (I do not know if the distributor is stock or if someone has messed with the springs or bushings)
Another question i have before I can even be ready to set my timing though, does anyone have any tips on freeing a stuck distributor lock down bolt? been using PB blaster on it the last 36 hours and I have already twisted one distributor wrench (damn thing twisted by like 20+ degrees on me and would have snapped if i didn't realize it was happening, going to see if advance auto parts will take it back). I am afraid of rounding the head or even busting the head clean off if I try anything with more gusto like a swivel socket and breaker bar.
Also ran into a new issue that also seems to be due to ignition in some way and wonder if anyone has any ideas if adjusting my timing would fix it: I replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs the first week i got the car, car seemed to run a touch better as would be expected, however in knowing i was going to work on the timing this week I just replaced the points this past weekend (made sure they were correct and is gaped perfectly to specs {0.017} ). After starting it back up I am now getting a slight popping/backfire sound in the exhaust on passenger side, it is a positive pressure pop. All that changed was replacing the points. I double checked the spark wire connections too to make sure i didn't knock anything loose when i had the cap off. I had a suspicion something was off ignition wise before I began messing with anything because the spark plugs i pulled out when i first got it were all blackened, with the 6 and 8 cylinder being the worst and even having a concerning amount of gritty particle buildup on it (was sandy in size and texture). so that combined with the now new issue of backfire/popping noise on passenger exhaust leads me back to an ignition and fuel burn issue.
Background on car/issue: I have recently bought a 1966 Dodge Charger, non original LA318 (assembly date on block is Nov 1976). I have plans to redo everything and drop a 360 in it down the rd, but want to get it reliably driveable until i build the 360. I have been doing a lot of maintenance on the vehicle that has been neglected. But it still runs like crap. Feels sluggish at anything above 3,000 rpm. I don't think my carb is working properly (old Carter 2 barrel), the mix screws don't appear to do jack, and to keep the engine running when putting it into gear i have to have the idle basically turned all the way up else i have to two foot it on the gas and the brake to keep the rpms up when I come to a stop. I do know there is a small vacuum leak on one corner of the gasket seal between the carb and manifold after doing the carb cleaner spritz test, but I'm unsure of the state of the carb components anyways and likely needs a rebuild, in the meantime while I learn how to do a carb rebuild, I happen to have a brand new 4 barrel edelbrock carb sitting in a box that I am going to put on it with a 4 barrel to 2 barrel adapter plate (not looking for a lecture here about this, been told there should be no problem doing this especially since I am not really looking to throw performance parts on the 318 that this carb setup would hold back, and just as long as I turn off two of the jets it should be fine to run so I can take my time learning to rebuild a carb on the carter and still be able to cruise around). However, Someone mentioned I should make sure my timing is right first though.
I've researched and understand the principals of timing so no need to explain basics and I have the tools and tape set on the balancer. What I need help with is what should my total mechanical timing be set to and what would be a good initial timing be after that is set? Not being sure what is original in the engine bay on this car I am having trouble figuring that out. I am unsure of what the mechanical advance and the advance curve is on the distributor currently but I can calculate that out once I get home today. (I do not know if the distributor is stock or if someone has messed with the springs or bushings)
Another question i have before I can even be ready to set my timing though, does anyone have any tips on freeing a stuck distributor lock down bolt? been using PB blaster on it the last 36 hours and I have already twisted one distributor wrench (damn thing twisted by like 20+ degrees on me and would have snapped if i didn't realize it was happening, going to see if advance auto parts will take it back). I am afraid of rounding the head or even busting the head clean off if I try anything with more gusto like a swivel socket and breaker bar.
Also ran into a new issue that also seems to be due to ignition in some way and wonder if anyone has any ideas if adjusting my timing would fix it: I replaced the cap, rotor, wires and plugs the first week i got the car, car seemed to run a touch better as would be expected, however in knowing i was going to work on the timing this week I just replaced the points this past weekend (made sure they were correct and is gaped perfectly to specs {0.017} ). After starting it back up I am now getting a slight popping/backfire sound in the exhaust on passenger side, it is a positive pressure pop. All that changed was replacing the points. I double checked the spark wire connections too to make sure i didn't knock anything loose when i had the cap off. I had a suspicion something was off ignition wise before I began messing with anything because the spark plugs i pulled out when i first got it were all blackened, with the 6 and 8 cylinder being the worst and even having a concerning amount of gritty particle buildup on it (was sandy in size and texture). so that combined with the now new issue of backfire/popping noise on passenger exhaust leads me back to an ignition and fuel burn issue.
