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67 Belvedere Trunk Panel, Anodized???

RT6PK

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I want to refurbish the trunk panel on my '67 Belvedere. The aluminum is cloudy and it will not polish out. Am I correct in thinking that the cloudiness is under the anodizing? If so can anyone recommend a way to strip the anodizing?
 
Easy off oven cleaner will take off the anodizing, wash quicky.
 
IMG_0099.JPG
Easy-Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner and green scotch brite pad.
 
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It's the coating that's cloudy not the trim itself. Re-anodizing is pricy and once it's off you're stuck having to have recoated or polishing it real often. There are products available that can reduce the fog but not entirely and lot's of elbow grease. I did this to my rear panels on my '63 Ply and it brightened just enough to say good enough for the next couple years. I can't remember off hand what I used as I bought dozens of products while restoing my car. I'll see if I can locate it and let ya know. Seems to me Eastwood products had something for this...you can do a search on the web too. Ahh...to do it fully right it's re-anodizing.
 
Strip and polish. Then coat with this:https://www.everbritecoatings.com/index.html#gsc.tab=0
I used it on my 65 Coronet front hood trim after bumping, sanding, and polishing and it looks great.
Mike
Everbrite is a horrible product. We resto aluminum grilles and gave it a try earlier this year. Thoroughly cleaned the aluminum surface, had to brush it on, then waited a week for it to fully dry, then it pulled off with masking tape. ProtectaClear is just as bad.
A major waste of time, money and effort, plus we had to clean it off, repolish the Grille and repaint.

The best way to fully protect your polished aluminum is anodize, but you can clear coat it and get away with it for about 5-8 years if waxed regularly and cared for.

Gettin parts anodized today is a nitemare. Like Chromers, there are many shady anodizers and powder coaters out there. Pick an anodizer that you KNOW works thru other people or test them yourself.
We have received anodized Grilles from Customers where the new anodize scraped off by scratching with your fingertip. You can send them a test piece to anodize like a small emblem. If it is good, use them.

Powdercoaters can be a shady bunch also. We sent out a pair of vintage Valve Cover to a powder coater picked by our Customer, here on FABO. They came back overheated and warped too bad to hold a gasket. They cannot be repaired after this. This was a real shocker for me. Turns out some powdercoaters heat to about 200 degrees, but others up to 400.
You can save yourself alot of crap by buying some of the trick aftermarket paints out there and doing it yourself. The trick is to really clean the surface, use a wire brush on a drill, if poss.

68-RR-GRILL-02.jpg
 
I'm thinking leave it in bare aluminum and just hit it with Mothers polish once a year.
 
Powdercoaters can be a shady bunch also. We sent out a pair of vintage Valve Cover to a powder coater picked by our Customer, here on FABO. They came back overheated and warped too bad to hold a gasket. They cannot be repaired after this. This was a real shocker for me. Turns out some powdercoaters heat to about 200 degrees, but others up to 400.

Two hundred degrees is barely enough to get the powder to start to melt let alone cure anything. Four hundred degrees is about standard for all powders to cure (though some require it a bit lower, but never less than 375 unless they are strictly "low cure temp" powders for wood/mdf/plastics).

Here is a handy Metal Melting Point Chart:
https://www.steelforge.com/literature/metal-melting-ranges/

If these vintage valve covers were "too warped to hold a gasket," they had to be steel (aluminum won't warp but pot metal will) and whomever did the BLASTING was more likely at fault by concentrating on one area for too long.

Please stick to trim restoration. Badmouthing other industries -- especially while passing out the wrong information to "back it up" -- doesn't enhance your professionalism in any way.

There are amazingly competent and talented individuals in EVERY profession just as there are substandard ones. Vendors and outside professionals should be investigated just like hiring a mechanic, a plumber, a lawyer or an architect. The fact is, your customer is more to blame for not doing his research than the entire powdercoating industry is for his warped valve covers. Blanket statements do little good for anyone.
 
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