67 charger as first car

[Tommy P]

One of my close friend's grandfather owns a dark blue 67 383 Charger with the 727 auto. It is nearly mint except for tires, a cracked passenger window, bad alignment, and very slightly worn seats. I could get it for as low as 2-3k. This would be my first car. I should be able to buy a beater for the winter but I may need to tough through one Ohio winter (I'll get snow tires and undercoat it) with the Charger. Should I jump on this deal? I don't know all too much about the cars so is there anything I should know or be aware of if I do buy it?

 

[Moparnocar]

Yes, smoking deal, make sure to por-15 underneath if you just undercoat, it will rust

Driving a old car is awesome, but you need to know how to work on it

 

[70VCode]

Depending how far your driving, where your are driving, and how you drive will greatly affect the gas mileage on this vehicle. It will be fun, but thirsty.

you mention everything is mint but the tires. Is it because they are bald or dry rotted? If the tires are dry rotted there is a good chance other rubber components would need replacement as well like belts, coolant hoses, brake hoses, wheel cylinders, fuel hoses etc.

 

[Lefty71]

Sounds awesome. I would not drive it in Ohio in the winter, no way, no how. Leave it for spring, make other arrangements, do anything other than drive it this winter!! Undercoating it will not save you by any means. There are nooks and crannies you can't possibly reach, but will surely discover when they are rusty as can be. Sounds harsh, but is very sound advice that you could only appreciate later on. Oh, and welcome to the group.

 

[Tommy P]

Yes, smoking deal, make sure to por-15 underneath if you just undercoat, it will rust

Driving a old car is awesome, but you need to know how to work on it

I have been building anything from cabinets to competition robots my whole life. I am very familiar with tools. My father has also owned 5 different classic cars in the past so he knows a thing or two on them. Im more afraid of driving the car itself. 330 hp through the skinniest tires I've ever seen seems kinda sketchy.

 

[Tommy P]

Depending how far your driving, where your are driving, and how you drive will greatly affect the gas mileage on this vehicle. It will be fun, but thirsty.

you mention everything is mint but the tires. Is it because they are bald or dry rotted? If the tires are dry rotted there is a good chance other rubber components would need replacement as well like belts, coolant hoses, brake hoses, wheel cylinders, fuel hoses etc.

I believe the tires are dry rotted. The owner isn't in the shape to drive his cars anymore so the tires have been sitting for a long while, but he makes sure to never let them go flat, and runs the car religiously.

 

[Tommy P]

Sounds awesome. I would not drive it in Ohio in the winter, no way, no how. Leave it for spring, make other arrangements, do anything other than drive it this winter!! Undercoating it will not save you by any means. There are nooks and crannies you can't possibly reach, but will surely discover when they are rusty as can be. Sounds harsh, but is very sound advice that you could only appreciate later on. Oh, and welcome to the group.

I can probably get a ride throughout the winter if I absolutely can't get a second car. I heard these old carburated cars suck in the winter too. Thanks for the warm welcome!

 

[Don Frelier]

Get the car if possible. 2-3K is a great price from what you say offer to make payments over the winter.
Please don't drive it in the winter, there are only so many 67 Chargers out there in original condition.

 

[70VCode]

I believe the tires are dry rotted. The owner isn't in the shape to drive his cars anymore so the tires have been sitting for a long while, but he makes sure to never let them go flat, and runs the car religiously.

In that case I would go about and change all the fluids, flush the coolant system, replace the master cylinder, soft rubber brake lines, wheel cylinders, essentially a brake over haul. If the owner has been running it religiously the carb may be okay, but wouldnt be a bad idea to put the car through an entire tune up (spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser). For the trans change the fluid, new filter and adjust the bands. Personally I would also change the thermostat, water pump and front wheel bearings. That is basically everything a friend is having me do to get a car I havent driven for over a decade do before I get it on the road.

Yes you can paint the under side with POR-15, yes you can under coat it, but the surfaces you can coat are not the surfaces that typically start with the cancerous rust. Rust forms in areas where the salt wedges in and doesnt come out. Which are the same areas you wont be able to 100% seal off with POR-15 and or under coating.

 

[Tommy P]

In that case I would go about and change all the fluids, flush the coolant system, replace the master cylinder, soft rubber brake lines, wheel cylinders, essentially a brake over haul. If the owner has been running it religiously the carb may be okay, but wouldnt be a bad idea to put the car through an entire tune up (spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser). For the trans change the fluid, new filter and adjust the bands. Personally I would also change the thermostat, water pump and front wheel bearings. That is basically everything a friend is having me do to get a car I havent driven for over a decade do before I get it on the road.

Yes you can paint the under side with POR-15, yes you can under coat it, but the surfaces you can coat are not the surfaces that typically start with the cancerous rust. Rust forms in areas where the salt wedges in and doesnt come out. Which are the same areas you wont be able to 100% seal off with POR-15 and or under coating.

I'll have to ask but I think my friend said he had to change all the fluids only a couple months ago. They took it to a car show not too far back so they really cleaned her up.

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

$2-3,000 is a screamin' deal for a 67 big block Charger. I love all the Chrysler product cars, especially in blue. If you're saying you are afraid of driving a big block 383 Charger, and want a classic car as a first car I would suggest getting a small block 318. A 318 is great on gas and has enough power to get out of the way. A big block 383 "drinks" gas but definitely not as much as a big block 440. Heck my rust bucket 318 daily driver Dodge Durango drinks 50 bucks every other week. and I park that for the winter so it doesn't rot more. As @Lefty71 said DO NOT drive it in the winter. That is a bad idea, it will rot like all cars do, but worse because it is an older car if it is exposed to the elements. Also if the car has drum brakes and you take it out in the snow it will probably be much harder to stop than in the spring. You really gotta know how to drive a drum brake car, it takes longer to stop than a disc brake car. My stepdad used to have a 66 Charger small block 318 as a first car. Unfortunately it never got on the road. I see from your profile that you're just 15, its great to know or hear that you are interested in these classic cars and on a classic car forum at this age. You are the next generation that will appreciate these great cars. Welcome to the forum! I'm only 19 and been into classic cars since probably 6 years old.

 

[70VCode]

Another area for concern with the 66-67 is the dash board. It is not your typical back lit dashboard of the era, it was marketed as electro-luminescence (or something along those lines). So it is a little more involved to repair if it doesnt light up. Just something to keep in mind for a vehicle that you plan on driving.

Carbs can be a handfull, but a properly tuned vehicle should not give you issues. Keep in mind, back when this was new these were used as dependable daily drivers that were required to start in the temps you see in Ohio.

Yes the tires are skinny, and putting 300+ hp to them does seem a little trouble some. However, they are adequate for the vehicle to keep up with modern day traffic. They will probably be over their limits if you start to push the car to its limits.

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

I heard these old carburated cars suck in the winter too.

That is if they do not have a "choke", they could be hard to start. Once it's warmed up they are fine. My stepdads 67 Sport Fury convertible for instance does not have a choke, it does not like to stay running when it first starts. Once it's warmed up it's fine.

 

[66ChargerHI-PO]

Another area for concern with the 66-67 is the dash board. It is not your typical back lit dashboard of the era, it was marketed as electro-luminescence (or something along those lines). So it is a little more involved to repair if it doesnt light up.

@70VCode is correct. There about 70 screws to take out the dash cluster to even change a bulb.

 

[eldubb440]

leave the underside alone...... no undercoat, no nothing.......down the road, you don't want to deal with removing that crap

power wash it and keep it clean for now, especially if you get salt/snow on it

WD40 on everything

 

[twecomm]

Hey Tom, Welcome.. Great deal ! Snap it up. Agree with all of the advise here. You did not state the mileage, but If it's indeed in the condition you say, I would not put it thru an Ohio winter if you don't have to. Probably has lots of crud i the bottom of the gas tank. Belts, hoses, fuel filter all a good idea. Flush out the cooling system. Check rear end fluid level, pull wheels to check for leaks in brake cylinders and brake condition. Would guess engine and tranny probably leak a bit, will need new pan gaskets. To get a car this old right, plan on a front end rebuild, bushings, ball joints ect., new shocks. After sitting on the suspension for 50 + years torsion bars and rear springs are ready to be replaced. Think AMD has new windshields and windshield gasket kits. Find someone that knows how to replace the glass in old cars. If it's a stock 383 4 barrel, should have a thermostatic choke. Don't expect it to start like a newer car. Good luck with it.

 

[Basket case]

great deal grab it! 330 HP isn't as scary as it sounds. Use your right foot sensibly and get used to the car then have fun (after you make it safe to drive). Post up some pics of your new ride.

 

[RedBeard]

Welcome Tom. Saying you have found a great deal is an understatement. Grab it before it evaporates. And do what has been suggested but keep it as original as possible.

 

[Speedbird]

Buy it if you can afford it.but don't expect to drive it in the winter.
I'm confused about a "cracked" side glass.
That tempered side glass blows up and not just crack like a windshield
It that reproduced?
Don't know.
Don't think so.

 

[someoneanywhere]

Just buy it and enjoy it as the thing it was made to be.... a really beautiful object of consumer utility. Ohio winter or not!!
If the itch and pocket depth allows sometime you'll have it, have enjoyed driving it and know what you need and want to restore it.
Plus, you'll not have the ¨ ...I could-a had it, **&&@@@!¨ remorse later. ;-)