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SOLD 67 Charger

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someoneanywhere

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For Sale: 1967 Dodge Charger

$7500.00 Serious Inquiries Only cash or cashiers check.

Near South Beloit, Illinois



Resto-mod. : 69 440HP with 67-69 Mopar 67-69 HP cast iron exhaust manifolds, not running.

1970 ´Cuda front bucket seats, trans shifter converted from column to floor shift, electro-luminescent instrument lighting converted to aqua hue leds, head lights motors not running.



New parts:

Griffon ultra tube radiator, Legendary Interiors carpet kit, window channels& felts, top fender turn indicators, Spectra Premium heater core (part of total heater box rebuild), Magnacore lifetime ignition wires, TTI 1966-67 B-body aluminized X-Exhaust system with complete hanger kit, Borla Stainless Steel mufflers,

Brakes (drums bearings, seals, shoes, hardware kits, all three parking brake cables), tie rod ends (nos hd), QA1 HD tie rod sleeves, Trick Shift TF-2 trans. kit (part of total trans. overhaul), Stainless Steel transmission cooling lines, System 1 stainless steel 20 micron screen permanently cleanable oil filter, Bouchillon Performance Engineering torqueflite kickdown cable kit (with BPE carb. cable plate kit). Bouchillon Perf. Eng. B-body throttle cable, Edelbrock 1791 quiet flo fuel pump, Holley fuel pressure regulator, 3/8¨ stainless steel fuel line, Stainless steel fuel tank, General Altimax RT 255R70-14 tires.

Buyer will need to haul it away.
I hope someone here will like to have it. I'm not a cell phone user so it may take me a bit of time to answer questions etc..
OooooooH, yeah, the engine: bad cyl. head(s)... loose valve seats.
Thank you.
Pictures to follow next postings.
 
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She needs a good home, or someone with the time and ability to sell the parted out parts. My new hearts eye is a 1950 Studebaker Champion Starlight coupe... and, and....etc.
Thank you all for all the help over the years ;-)
 
What kinda rust we looking at?
Very little. The brake lines are original so they are rusty, some upper inner fender liner rust minor, no trunk rust, the inner turtle deck is very minor rust. Well I mean of course to say that the inner roof sweep back area has very minor rust. I did a lot of snorting and sleuth about when I pulled the interior out to replace all the window felts, adjust the window regulators, stops, carpet etc..and of course repaint the panels.
 
Last edited:
For Sale: 1967 Dodge Charger

$7500.00 Serious Inquiries Only cash or cashiers check.

Near South Beloit, Illinois



Resto-mod. : 69 440HP with 67-69 Mopar 67-69 HP cast iron exhaust manifolds, not running.

1970 ´Cuda front bucket seats, trans shifter converted from column to floor shift, electro-luminescent instrument lighting converted to aqua hue leds, head lights motors not running.



New parts:

Griffon ultra tube radiator, Legendary Interiors carpet kit, window channels& felts, top fender turn indicators, Spectra Premium heater core (part of total heater box rebuild), Magnacore lifetime ignition wires, TTI 1966-67 B-body aluminized X-Exhaust system with complete hanger kit, Borla Stainless Steel mufflers,

Brakes (drums bearings, seals, shoes, hardware kits, all three parking brake cables), tie rod ends (nos hd), QA1 HD tie rod sleeves, Trick Shift TF-2 trans. kit (part of total trans. overhaul), Stainless Steel transmission cooling lines, System 1 stainless steel 20 micron screen permanently cleanable oil filter, Bouchillon Performance Engineering torqueflite kickdown cable kit (with BPE carb. cable plate kit). Bouchillon Perf. Eng. B-body throttle cable, Edelbrock 1791 quiet flo fuel pump, Holley fuel pressure regulator, 3/8¨ stainless steel fuel line, Stainless steel fuel tank, General Altimax RT 255R70-14 tires.

Buyer will need to haul it away.
I hope someone here will like to have it. I'm not a cell phone user so it may take me a bit of time to answer questions etc..
OooooooH, yeah, the engine: bad cyl. head(s)... loose valve seats.
Thank you.
Pictures to follow next postings.
7,500?
 
We would need the compression test to know if the Builder is being straight with you.
 
Well as I sou
We would need the compression test to know if the Builder is being straight with you.
As all parts going into the engine were sourced to him through me I know what is inside, plus I was boots on the tarmac or rather to say butting the seat- n-foot on the throttle at the run-in. So I heard for myself the clatter. We were both old aircraft wrench benders.
 
Well as I sou

As all parts going into the engine were sourced to him through me I know what is inside, plus I was boots on the tarmac or rather to say butting the seat- n-foot on the throttle at the run-in. So I heard for myself the clatter. We were both old aircraft wrench benders.
Definitely interested but not without compression test. You know what time mean, right?
 
Definitely interested but not without compression test. You know what time mean, right?
DO NOT be insulting you do not get an A&P with Inspectors Authorization without understanding engine timing!
12-13 degrees btc is where we set the engine here discussed.
As I said NOT Running now I will add AS IS.
 
I know all about engine timing. And I know you can do a compression test as long as you can crank the motor over it doesn't need to start. I also know I wiped out cam when I see one
 
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