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67 R/T... Back to Life PART II

69L48Z27

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Location
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Here we are again. If you’re wondering why there’s a Part II, here’s the original - https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/67-r-t-back-to-life.137005/

In 67 my parents bought an R/T in Dallastown, Pa from Stetler Dodge. They kept the car until 72 and sold it to a local guy that’s had it ever since, nearly 47 years. In part one, the same gentleman sold me a nearly identical 67 R/T that had a very similar story except it wasn’t my parents car. This IS my parents car now. Yes, he had two identical cars and now I have two identical cars. Crazy stuff. The other car had a much different life than this one did.

This car was enjoyed for a very long time and was a prize possession. The car was raced extensively over the years and mainly in the 90’s. The car has now sat idle for many, many years, probably since 97 or 98. At its prime the car went mid 12’s on replacement 440. The good news is, the original engine was pulled and saved a long time ago. Car currently has a hot setup but looks stock, reverse manual valve body, and 3:91s.

I just got the car home this week and I gave it a bath and that’s it. I didn’t try to start it yet, I need to go through everything first and get a battery. Over the next few weeks I’ll be taking on all the systems and getting it road worthy. This car is completely rust free, yes a PA with zero rust.

At this point I’m not ‘restoring’ the car. Actually, I’m not really sure what I’m doing. I’m leaning towards keeping it as it was in the 90’s and taking it down the 1/4 mile.

More to come I suppose.

Where it all began:
D699E9ED-687C-4034-9208-DD1265AC6BFF.jpeg

This IS that car in 2019:
B9C59469-AD0B-4071-B8CF-3CE858AAE1CC.jpeg

Original 440
A23055DC-C14C-4C00-831D-12A7C2B54FA3.jpeg

Mopar Nats stickers from the 90s
ADECD47C-D74B-47CB-A196-3567845814CE.jpeg

63D6E65B-69BF-491C-96D7-32C50081644F.jpeg
 
IS THAT A CHEVY IN THE SAME GARAGE :BangHead:,sweet R/T
 
I liked this thread so much that I clicked the link to the round 1 build. I just finished reading it in its entirety. You do fantastic work and it looks like you have some reputable people in your area for what you didn't do. The chrome and plating on the 66-67's is much more expensive than the 68-70's all in. I'm glad you had a paint shop that worked with you well on what you wanted them to do. Most of them like it there way or not at all. I love my 66-67's and think they were higher quality automobiles than the 68-70's although there are a lot of 68's that I like also. Thanks for showing everyone how a 67 is done correctly.
 
I liked this thread so much that I clicked the link to the round 1 build. I just finished reading it in its entirety. You do fantastic work and it looks like you have some reputable people in your area for what you didn't do. The chrome and plating on the 66-67's is much more expensive than the 68-70's all in. I'm glad you had a paint shop that worked with you well on what you wanted them to do. Most of them like it there way or not at all. I love my 66-67's and think they were higher quality automobiles than the 68-70's although there are a lot of 68's that I like also. Thanks for showing everyone how a 67 is done correctly.
Thank you very much!
 
Man I love these cars.....nice score on the parents R/T! The 67 coronets have always had a soft spot in my heart. Love that roofline!
 
Here we are again. If you’re wondering why there’s a Part II, here’s the original - https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/67-r-t-back-to-life.137005/

In 67 my parents bought an R/T in Dallastown, Pa from Stetler Dodge. They kept the car until 72 and sold it to a local guy that’s had it ever since, nearly 47 years. In part one, the same gentleman sold me a nearly identical 67 R/T that had a very similar story except it wasn’t my parents car. This IS my parents car now. Yes, he had two identical cars and now I have two identical cars. Crazy stuff. The other car had a much different life than this one did.

This car was enjoyed for a very long time and was a prize possession. The car was raced extensively over the years and mainly in the 90’s. The car has now sat idle for many, many years, probably since 97 or 98. At its prime the car went mid 12’s on replacement 440. The good news is, the original engine was pulled and saved a long time ago. Car currently has a hot setup but looks stock, reverse manual valve body, and 3:91s.

I just got the car home this week and I gave it a bath and that’s it. I didn’t try to start it yet, I need to go through everything first and get a battery. Over the next few weeks I’ll be taking on all the systems and getting it road worthy. This car is completely rust free, yes a PA with zero rust.

At this point I’m not ‘restoring’ the car. Actually, I’m not really sure what I’m doing. I’m leaning towards keeping it as it was in the 90’s and taking it down the 1/4 mile.

More to come I suppose.

Where it all began:
View attachment 826581
This IS that car in 2019:
View attachment 826585
Original 440
View attachment 826582
Mopar Nats stickers from the 90s
View attachment 826584
View attachment 826583
I have one just like it. Black with black top and 440. Weird but I have 3.91 gears also. Love the car!

IMG_0030.JPG
 
I had a little time over the holiday weekend to start digging in. I have some pictures of what I’m starting with after a quick rinse off with the hose. The first thing was the age and condition of the battery cables. Check out that ground cable. I just grabbed parts store negative cable and a new cable end for the positive lead. Once that was done I grabbed the battery to see what was going to happen.

Seems like all the lights work, no 4 ways, horn is good. I checked all the fluids and pushed out the old gas in the tank. Luckily there was only a couple quarts of gas left. The key didn’t turn the engine but I could see lights dimming meaning it was trying. I quick dismantling of the starter relay showed the contacts were no good. I cleaned them and reassembled, now the key works.

A couple cranks proved I had no spark. Voltage at the coil was only 4VDC, another ballast resistor fixed that. Still no spark. I grabbed new points and condenser and set the gap. Hit the key and she came to life! I only ran the engine for a few seconds, I had gas coming out of the carb in the wrong places.

The carb on the car is a 73 440 HP Thermoquad. I have that completely apart right now and soaking. I throw a rebuild at that over the weekend and try again. I like these carbs, been seriously thinking about fuel injection.

Plenty of stuff to do but I’m pretty excited! Lots of cleanup but it’ll look great. I need to get another bucket of Evaporust. Last paint job was 1975.
3D693BD3-D5A3-46E9-8B86-058D6CC23F8E.jpeg
1312AD6E-3129-435A-947D-503F7A46464B.jpeg
FB856454-68DE-41F7-BEA6-8CF3A6D5E594.jpeg
F50A6F2F-A925-4074-8F87-8719AD6B05C2.jpeg
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Things have been progressing. I went through the ignition and replaced everything. Coil, cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, and wires. I did a compression test and static compression is between 200-210psi. I had two cylinders that would sort of pump up and then not. Seems they’re okay once I got the car running. I also rebuilt the 73 440 ThermoQuad. Once all that was done I fired the car and it was a bit noisy. I wanted to get some oil circulating and then dump the oil. Glad I did, it had about a gallon of gas in the oil. Hopefully it didn’t kill the bearings, I’ll tear into that over the winter.

I decided to move into the interior and get that all cleaned up. It was a little stinky and damp. I was able to reuse everything so far except the carpet. Lots of cleaning and scrubbing. Just about all back together.

Console, seats, belts, door panels, and dash pad are all original.

817B6261-B3E0-4667-8DDC-825F9D13407E.jpeg
C7BF986C-0615-40C9-AB84-38FD90AB1D6E.jpeg
0E2617F6-A758-496E-8087-D9E6CD527FE6.jpeg
 
It sure is cleaning up great. Nice it has the console tachometer.
 
That's awesome! I'm glad you were able to get the car back. Loved your work on the other one and will be watching this thread as well.
 
It sure is cleaning up great. Nice it has the console tachometer.
That’s an interesting one for sure. When I tore the console down I had a WTH moment. The tach was not in the factory location and it was not installed anything like a factory tach. Not sure what the story is but I’ll never know. The last owner swears it was in there when he got it in 72. According to the broadcast sheet, this car did NOT come with a console tach. I fixed the install the best I could and ran the tach wire in the factory location. Whoever installed it popped the speedo cable grommet out and ran the wires through the hole.
 
The interior is complete and back together. Only thing I replaced was the carpet. Everything else cleaned up. Looks all original except the driver seat upholstery. Not sure when that was replaced long ago.
AA81A088-55C9-49BB-92E8-6E0CC1B17DC1.jpeg
F9D469BA-183C-43E5-827C-A6A67BA896F2.jpeg
F24AAED5-E6C5-4C5D-ABF0-7281D1E34BF8.jpeg
 
Today I tried buffing paint to see what it would look like. I got the roof done and I gotta say it shines pretty good for a 1975 cheap paint job. Lots of dirt nibs but the paint laid out pretty flat compared to some of the OE orange peel cars back then and even today.
09245D98-E039-4F46-A5C4-BB8A72912208.jpeg
 
That’s an interesting one for sure. When I tore the console down I had a WTH moment. The tach was not in the factory location and it was not installed anything like a factory tach. Not sure what the story is but I’ll never know. The last owner swears it was in there when he got it in 72. According to the broadcast sheet, this car did NOT come with a console tach. I fixed the install the best I could and ran the tach wire in the factory location. Whoever installed it popped the speedo cable grommet out and ran the wires through the hole.
Was the tachometer not in the factory location on the console or was it just the wiring. Some parts can be missing and the tachometer will still mount, just not correctly.
 
Was the tachometer not in the factory location on the console or was it just the wiring. Some parts can be missing and the tachometer will still mount, just not correctly.
Both. They drilled a hole right next to where the knock out is. Then the tach itself does not have the correct stem to mount it. It does not swivel. The wiring for power was run from fuse box, I tapped all wiring where the FSM shows it.
 
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