67 voltmeter vs ammeter/bypass

Electrical & Ignition

  1. closer9

    closer9 Well-Known Member

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    So, a while back I upgraded my 67 Belvedere to HEI, and this weekend I'll finally get around to pulling the harness and removing all the unused wires from the old ignition. I've also been reading up on ammeter/bulkhead bypass and figure this would be a good time. Seems like there's a lot of discussion and a few ways to go about it. I'm planning on running a wire with fusible link from the alternator to the starter relay. All my wiring is new within the last 14 years. Still seems old but 2006 vs 1967... I'm considering bypassing the ammeter too. Either solder the two ends together or put them both under one terminal in the back of the gauge.

    However, (sorry for the long post to get to my question) I would like to run a volt gauge, but nothing seems to fit a 67 Belvedere gauge cluster and I really don't want something hanging off the bottom of the dash. Some day, I plan on a custom cluster with aftermarket gauges, but I'm still working on the cluster design. So, has anyone replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter that fit the cluster?

    Thanks...
     
  2. 451Mopar

    451Mopar Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 21, 2021
  3. 6-david-5

    6-david-5 Well-Known Member

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    This might get you by.........

    [​IMG]


    I take the factory Ammeters apart, gut the Ammeter to the faceplate and carefully add the Sunpro gauge in it's place! The lug spacing in the back of the gauge is not exact but close enough to pass through the two + & - holes in the back of the cluster where the Ammeter lugs pass.

    [​IMG]

    My '68 Dart
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Carefully cut & drill the factory gauge face so the innards of the Sunpro unit can be fastened to the factory face.

    [​IMG]

    The gauge rests against D when the car is not running.

    [​IMG]

    You could probably do this if you didn't want to cut up the factory gauge face, but then the round corners of the Sunpro gauge make things look incomplete.

    [​IMG]

    David
     
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    • 451Mopar

      451Mopar Well-Known Member

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      or just get a voltmeter that plugs into the cigar lighter?
       
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      • closer9

        closer9 Well-Known Member

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        Thanks, everyone...

        MoparLeo, that first Allpar link is the one I was going by. In 2006 I replaced all my wiring with M&H harnesses converted to Mopar electronic ignition, so I'm already running a square back alternator. About a year ago I switched to HEI. I decided to leave everything alone on the M&H harness till I had some miles on the new ignition and made sure it was all good. I think it's been plenty of time now.

        451Mopar, I can't seem to get your link to work. I'll look more into it later.

        6-david-5, excellent. Looks great. I figured this is what I would end up having to do.

        As far as the plug in voltmeter, I haven't ruled that, but only for a temporary solution. I have a spare gauge cluster that's supposed to be getting laser scanned later this month. We'll see how that goes. I'll be looking into round gauges for a custom cluster, but knowing me, it could be quite some time.
         
      • diesel_lv

        diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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        I used Redline Gauge to referb my '67 Coronet gauges cluster. Full referb, even painting the pointers n calibrating speedo, so a bit pricey. They converted my amp gauge to volt meter. It appears to be how 6-david-5 did his. Works great. At straight up n down is around 12 volts. My alternator is usually at 14.5 ish volts so I'm closer to 3/4 arc.
         
      • 451Mopar

        451Mopar Well-Known Member

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        I edited the post with the Amazon description in cast the link does not work. Only $19
        I just use mine like a test meter when I need to check currents over the 10Amp max my regular multimeter has.
        It is alot cheaper than a clamp-on DC current meter. Only issue is the hall-effect sensor is a solid ring, so you need to have the wire going through the sensor.

        For testing stuff, I often just run a jumper wire through the sensor and connect the ends of the jumper wire between the source and load.
         
      • closer9

        closer9 Well-Known Member

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        451Mopar, gotcha. Thanks. I'll take a look.

        diesel_Iv, sounds good. Do you have pix posted on here somewhere?

        Just curious you guys that have bypassed the ammeter, did you also bypass the bulkhead and if so, which method did you choose?
         
      • toolmanmike

        toolmanmike Henchman #2 Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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        I use on in my 66. Works great and I usually have my phone plugged in anyway.

        cigarette lighter usb adapter.jpg2.jpg
         
      • closer9

        closer9 Well-Known Member

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        toolmanmike, I like that. I've had a USB port plugged in there for years anyway. Again, would like to have a functional mechanical gauge in the cluster, but a good temporary option.
         
      • toolmanmike

        toolmanmike Henchman #2 Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Volts displayed until you plug in your phone then it shows you phone charging amperage. (usually a amp or less)
        It's pretty handy.
         
      • 6-david-5

        6-david-5 Well-Known Member

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        After that change, I simply pull the connectors and check them. Maybe I've been fortunate, but my cars have had a bronze-looking oxidation that I simply brighten with a small wire brush w/WD-40. Reassemble with some dielectric grease. If I didn't feel it was good enough, I would probably pass that wire through that oval grommet below the master cylinder.
         
        Last edited: Jan 21, 2021
      • closer9

        closer9 Well-Known Member

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        Well, I'm going to dig into the harness in the morning and get all the old wires out. For now I won't mess with the ammeter. However, I did notice interior lights are fairly dim at idle and brighten with RPM's. Headlights are on relays. I found I have almost a volt of drop across the bulkhead. So, I'll be pulling and cleaning. Need to find some small brushes and/or files. If that doesn't help I may run another wire through the firewall to the ammeter. I will also be adding a wire from alternator to starter relay.
         
      • diesel_lv

        diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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        20210124_120932.jpg 20210124_120951.jpg Here's the ammeter. 1st is 12 volts n 2nd is 14.5 volts. 1st one is without engine running.
         
      • closer9

        closer9 Well-Known Member

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