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68 charger radiator suggestions

Dakotaacres

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Well I took my original radiator a local shop. Said it had so many leaks that it would cost $600 to fix.
What should I replace it with? I don't know what size or how thick it is. 383 engine. I don't need anything for racing, just want something that will cool good. Might be adding A/C to it.
thanks.
 
Well I took my original radiator a local shop. Said it had so many leaks that it would cost $600 to fix.
What should I replace it with? I don't know what size or how thick it is. 383 engine. I don't need anything for racing, just want something that will cool good. Might be adding A/C to it.
thanks.
22" or 26"? Glenn Ray $1200, Griffin close to the same. There are a lot of aftermarket radiators some look similar to original, many don't. For $300 or less you can keep your engine cool, just depends on how cool you want it to look.
 
Well I took my original radiator a local shop. Said it had so many leaks that it would cost $600 to fix.
What should I replace it with? I don't know what size or how thick it is. 383 engine. I don't need anything for racing, just want something that will cool good. Might be adding A/C to it.
thanks.
1st thing, measure your radiator. The core support will either take a 22" or a 26". You cannot put a 26" in a 22" slot. Measure the "core" part of your radiator left to right to determine which it is. Then you can decide where to go from there. US Radiator has a nice aluminum w stamped tanks that look close to stock when painted black for under $600. Other aluminum are usually square welded upper n lower tanks. For a stock 383 w air, a 2 row w 1" tubes and a factory shroud w fan clutch and proper size fan will be more than adequate. If your tanks on your stock radiator are good, a recore w a 3 row brass using modern core spacing will work too. Find another shop for an estimate on recore. But brass is expensive compared to aluminum.
 
I prefer the original look, and No One does them Better, than Bob S & The Glen-Ray Bunch...
 
It is really too bad that regulations have driven so many radiator shops out of business. Aftermarket versions are available, but for me took lots of web looking.
 
Said it had so many leaks that it would cost $600 to fix.


So, it was like this?

tenor.gif
 
As I search for a radiator I find none in a 22 that has a passenger offset upper hose.

IMG_3532.jpg
 
I reposted under heating and cooling.
 
Why paint it? Let the aluminum do what it does, transfer heat.
The key to the radiator quality is what size the tubes are.
 
Why paint it? Let the aluminum do what it does, transfer heat.
The key to the radiator quality is what size the tubes are.
I prefer factory appearing even if it hinders performance a little.

I bought one of those cheap Champion radiators for a car I had a few years back and installed it in a relatively stock engine compartment. Every time I popped the hood I cringed because it looked so out of place. Eventually I had the original re-cored.
 
Why paint it? Let the aluminum do what it does, transfer heat.
The key to the radiator quality is what size the tubes are.
The size of the tubes is a factor but it's the FINS (the zig-zag pieces) between the tubes that are the heat transfer component. The higher the number of fins/inch the more surface area, the better the efficiency of the radiator.....the tubes provide a third of the heat exchanger function ; the other two thirds of the heat exchanger function is provided by fins. 18-20 fins/inch are ideal providing most surface area for the air passing thru to extract the heat from the tubes. BTW the fins are made by a "fin folding" machine, from a continuous strip from either copper or aluminum (depending of radiator construction) developed by Modine Corp. and be "adjusted" thru tooling of the machine.
Painting the radiator aids in the heat transfer by aideing to the principle of "black body radiation" and the absolute temperature. Just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
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