68 Manifold Removal

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. Macdon221

    Macdon221 Well-Known Member

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    Cleaning up a few things. Would like to remove both exhaust manifolds, blast, re-coat. The main drive is needing to remove the manifold to be able to remove one of the head bolts as the spark plug brackets are installed wrong. Also want to put on spark plug heat shields.

    Having a preliminary look...it seems extremely tight for room the rear drivers manifold bolt to come out reference the steering column. See photo.

    Any advice.

    AD559ED5-6C80-4D2B-A7F6-C9BC801BBCBD.jpeg
     
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    • Jerry Hall

      Jerry Hall Well-Known Member

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      Never had a problem, but don't remember if it came all the way out or if you backed it out and removed it or if it came out with the manifold.
       
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      • 1968Charger1

        1968Charger1 Member

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        On my 68 I had to jack the motor up to get the drivers manifold out.
         
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        • 33 IMP

          33 IMP FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          That was gonna be my suggestion.
          Do you still have the factory studs? If you do, the manifold will have to come about 3/4" away from the head before you can jiggle it out.
           
          Last edited: Dec 17, 2019
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          • Macdon221

            Macdon221 Well-Known Member

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            Yes. Factory studs. Think there is room to get the manifold out and up. But not sure there will even be room to remove the rear bolt reference the steering column.
             
          • 33 IMP

            33 IMP FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            You're talking about one of the long nuts on either side of the down-pipe area? If you have enough room to get it loose from the stud, just leave it in the manifold as you remove the manifold.
             
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            • steve340

              steve340 Well-Known Member

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              I was able to take the drivers side one off without moving anything.
              I could not get the passengers side one off. It would not slide off the studs before it hit the inner fender. The engine I realised is quite far offset.
               
            • Macdon221

              Macdon221 Well-Known Member

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              33 IMP...you may have given me the AH HA moment. Lol
               
            • steve340

              steve340 Well-Known Member

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              If you have iron heads and manifolds and the surfaces are in fair to good condition you can use a coating of high temp RTV and this seals nicely. That is what I did with mine and it is quite easy to do and works really well.
              I tightened up the manifolds and left it for 24 hours as well before running it.
               
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