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'68 Plumb Sinister Coronet 440

YoungGun87

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
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Location
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Well I just picked this up the other day for a relatively cheap 13k.
Mostly complete car that had a rotisserie started on it by a professional shop back in 2006/2007 so the metal that was replaced wasn't that cheap China stuff that's everywhere today. There were quite a few extras that came with it and many parts to convert it to R/T but we won't be adding any badging to it because the inside of the trunk has already been painted and I don't want to mess that up by welding the "DODGE" holes closed to add the holes for the R/T finish panel. We have most of the "CORONET 440" quarter letters and only missing a "D" for the rear panel. The rear seat frames were blasted and painted already. Brand new white seat covers, foam, insulation and headliner came with the car. Dana 60 Strange axle, tubular upper/lower control arms, k-frame, 4-wheel disc brakes from Reilly Motor Sports(back in 2007 and no longer carry the parts) all already loosely installed. A 1978 RB 440 block that we're having built by a local engine builder who said he'll get all the machining done, take all the proper measurements, etc., and build to push around 600hp for around $1,500 and no more than $2,000, which will include boring and bigger pistons, upgraded performance cam that will chop and thump the roads. Said he lost count of how many engines he's built after about 700 so he knows his stuff in that realm and a few race cars in his shop. We have the original 120mph gauges to go in the original dash but also have rallye gauges with the clock instead of tach. I read in a post on this site that the only modification needed to convert to rally gauges were adding the two tabs at the top without any other cutting necessary but can't be too sure about that so that will be a later decision. I've got a photo book that came with it of the progress the hot rod shop did on the rotisserie as well as all their invoices, totaling over 32k in parts/labor. The original fender tag, dash VIN, broadcast sheet(in pieces and brittle with some parts still legible including most of the VIN), window sticker, original owner's manual, and a sheriff's form for the title, with the title as well, all were included. I believe we got a good deal but it's going to be quite a journey still before she's on the road as this is our first Mopar build as a father/son project. I'll try to keep documentation and photo evidence of work going forward and will be posting to this thread. Will also be selling parts we don't need and older ones we won't be using and got a few already listed on site. I've done researched quite a few of them and will be expecting reasonable prices as I suspect some folks are already trying to downplay them so they can snatch up and sit on their shelves. I'm not looking to screw anyone over and I'm expecting the same in return. Thanks, FBBO, a lot of the people here have been welcoming thus far. Looking forward to learning new things in the Mopar world.
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This is the fender tag decode:
CAR: Dodge Coronet 440 2 Door Hardtop
ENGINE: 318cid 2-bbl V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: 7.75x14 White Sidewall
MODEL YEAR: 1968
BUILD DATE: August 18.
AXLE: 2.76 Rear Axle Ratio
INTERIOR: High Trim Grade, Vinyl Split Bench Seats. White on Red Interior.
PAINT: Burgundy Metallic.
OTHER: Burgundy Metallic Upper Door Frame Color.

MOLDINGS:
14: Sill Mouldings
25: Drip Rail Mouldings
30: Body Belt Mouldings
55: Body Side Mouldings

ABC OPTIONS:
R1: AM Radio
X2: Tinted Windshield Only
Y7: White Vinyl Top

abc OPTIONS:
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
m6: Driver's Outside Remote Operated Mirror
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Whoever decided to paint the block yellow was on something back in 2007 because everyone I've talked to so far doesn't really care for it so it will be Mopar orange when done. And yes, I'm aware that all 440's came turquoise other than the high performance/police package cars in '68 but I think 600hp when we're done having ours built will be pretty damn high performance for the street.
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Welcome and you'll have fun putting it back together after someone else took it apart. Been there, done that. Its going to look good when done.
 
Welcome and you'll have fun putting it back together after someone else took it apart. Been there, done that. Its going to look good when done.
Oh man, that's what had me almost not get it. My father and I have already had quite a few "where does this/that go and that over there" moments so I'll be looking to get one of those assembly manuals they got online for around $65 so I can do it right. The guy was asking $19,500 for the car down in Florida so we went and checked it out, even helped him hang the passenger door while down there which he appreciated then came back and was pretty much going to pass until he called this past weekend, saying he was going to the auction down in Lakeland and wondering if we were still interested. Told him for everything that needs to be done still, having engine rebuilt, finding and having a trans rebuilt, etc., that we could only be in it for $13k and he accepted, even paid for our uhaul trailer to haul it back. Pretty nice guy but the only thing I didn't like was he put back the ramcharger system he had that was going with it because some other guy wanted to buy it and he failed to mention until we were almost back home and remembered to ask about. I didn't really want to cut holes and install that thing anyway tbqh even though they make templates. It was just the fact that those things go for around $800 and would have helped financed parts we're going to need to get. Our plan as of now is to go matte black paint on body, with the plumb crazy purple that's already been done in the engine bay, trunk, and full undercarriage, with white bucket front seats, white headliner, black carpet, and probably have the dash painted the plumb purple as well. If our budget allows when everything is said and done we may end up having the whole car painted plumb purple also.
 
One place I worked at, my first job was putting a 67 Camaro:BangHead: back together that someone else had taken apart, been to several shops over 10+ years, had lots of pieces missing, lots of wrong parts, getting assembly info was like pulling teeth etc. My boss and the owner figured it should only take a month to finish it. 10 months later if was done. And the car owner was a flaming prick that accused me of stealing parts. I brow beat him by saying wtf do I want Chevy Feces for? I'm a MOPAR GUY!
 
Lmao some people are something else. I don't believe in screwing anyone over and if people do me wrong, I just burn that bridge and move on. We just got done doing a '72 Camaro standard coupe with Z/28 badging and what I like about GM is the parts are plentiful and there's plenty of resources to help a build go smoothly as well as parts being somewhat inexpensive for the most part. The guy we bought it from out of South Carolina already had the drivetrain installed, it was capable of driving, with all new interior covers/panels to go with it as well as the headliner already being installed, and a shoddy paint job but decent driver quality. We put all new wiring in it from American Autowire, all LED lighting, brand new wheels/tires, brand new just about everything, Wilwood 4-wheel disc brakes, took the whole interior and dash out to put in sound deadener and let it go for what I believe was a steal at $27k. Took us about 8 months to pretty much button everything up and had it just over a year.
 
Assembling someone elses failed project sucks.. I did it and nothing was bagged and tagged. Boxes of parts and nothing in order. In the end though it was fun. Hardest part to figure out was the vent windows and all the mechanical crap in the doors. I ended up just laying all the parts out on the floor and started putting puzzle pieces together.
 
Assembling someone elses failed project sucks.. I did it and nothing was bagged and tagged. Boxes of parts and nothing in order. In the end though it was fun. Hardest part to figure out was the vent windows and all the mechanical crap in the doors. I ended up just laying all the parts out on the floor and started putting puzzle pieces together.
Yes sir, it's going to be a difficult task for sure. I did notice that they labeled the window mechs with "R/L" but figuring out just exactly how they go in will be another ballgame. They also labeled the little weatherstripping pieces of where they go too but we'll be ordering those new, which I believe this link is the correct kit we'll need(someone correct me if I'm wrong on that before I waste $568 on the wrong kit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Coron...eal-Kit-2-Door-Hardtop-Metro-New/392563515082
It's got my dad excited about getting to do a Mopar and drive it when it's done so that'll be worth it to me to go through all the undoubtedly future headaches. He's had a few Mopars back in the day when he could get them for just a couple hundred bucks like a Demon, Goat, Belvedere, and I think a '67 Charger (can't remember the exact years off the top of my head but he knows)

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Looks correct to me. If you want good info look for @dadsbee build info that man did an amazing job recording the build with lots of information and photos.
  • Brand New Weatherstripping Kit
  • High Quality OEM Style Replacements
  • Made in the U.S.A.
  • 15 Year Warranty
  • Kit Includes:
    • 1 pair of Door Weatherstrips
    • 1 pair of Roof Weatherstrips
    • 1 pair of Quarter Window Seals
    • 1 pair of Door Jamb Seals
    • 1 pair of Door End Seals
    • 8-PC Windowfelt Set
    • 1 pair of Vent Window Seals
    • 1 Hood to Radiator Support Seal
    • 1 Paint Reseal Kit
    • 1 Pair of Door Window Weatherstrip Plug
    • 1 Rubber Bumper Kit
    • 1 Trunk Weatherstrip / Seal
      • (For cars with flat not D-shaped trunk seal end profile)
  • Fits the following 2 Door Hardtop NON-Post Models:
    • 1968 Dodge: Coronet
 
Awesome, thanks. I gave him a follow and bookmarked his '69 Superbee thread.
 
You're comment about converting to the Rallye cluster might be over simplified. Maybe just a little bit of fab work to get it installed in a bare frame, but then there would be fitment issues with the pad, etc. I don't know much about it, but maybe you could use reproduction Rallye dash pads?

I think most people that have thought of converting end up making aftermarket gauges fit in the existing hole, or go with a Dakota Digital cluster.
 
You're comment about converting to the Rallye cluster might be over simplified. Maybe just a little bit of fab work to get it installed in a bare frame, but then there would be fitment issues with the pad, etc. I don't know much about it, but maybe you could use reproduction Rallye dash pads?

I think most people that have thought of converting end up making aftermarket gauges fit in the existing hole, or go with a Dakota Digital cluster.

I'm not sure. I was going by what @paulie-rt said in this thread, https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/b-body-rallye-pack-dash.233487/
Said he did the conversion on a '68 500 vert and the only thing he had to adapt were those two tabs that held the gauge cluster at the top. I also have another set of the 3 piece dash pads in black for the rallye gauges along with a few pieces of trim that came extra with the car. According to the guy's ad who I bought the car from, he said most of the parts to convert to an R/T had already been purchased and were with all the extras in the sale. I just need to figure out how everything goes together and what all I have first. Not entirely sure I'll be using the rallye gauges as I've got the original 120mph cluster and one of the prongs that goes into the back of the rallye's pops out which will need to be re-soldered and not sure if that will screw up the circuit board.
 
If you do convert it, post pics and a little "how to" write-up if you don't mind. I'd be curious to see what all is involved.
 
Well I stripped down the dash today and tried to see how the rallye gauges would fit in and it would require cutting the bottom of the cluster area out as well as adding those tabs. I won't be doing that so those Dakota Digitals are looking pretty appealing for the look, simplicity, and basically plug'n'play. On to the next issue, if anyone has a good recommendation on the best 4-speed transmission to go behind a ~600hp 440RB and a Dana 60 rearend with specifics on parts, I'm all ears. I've been looking at the 833's and my father really wants to have a pistol grip shifter. We've also decided no console will be going in. Keeping lowest price possible in mind.
I'll be needing...
-Pistol grip shifter (non console) that will work with '68 b-body
-Correct shift box/linkage
-Bellhousing
-Clutch assembly
-Clutch Pedal assembly/linkage
 
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Before I screw up and travel 450 miles round trip, will this A833 work for my ride? Signs are pointing to no from what I've gathered regardless of what the guy said so I'm needing a second opinion(fact) from an expert, thanks.
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No....

...what you need..
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Thanks, @dadsbee . I just changed my search parameters and actually found the exact same guy we were going to meet and it's $100 cheaper than the one I posted above! Holy ****, talk about lucking out. You've got a hell of a build by the way. I'm on page 7 of your '69 build thread and I'm highly impressed with your work.

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