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68 Roadrunner wiper switch removal

Ed Martin

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When the 2-speed wipers on my 68 Roadrunner quit working after years of not being used (since I don't drive in the the rain), I replaced the (orginal) motor. That did not fix the problem so I figured the next step was to check out the wiper switch. When I look in my FSM page 8-83 it says to test the 2-speed switch, disconnect the wiring and remove the switch from the instrument panel. Then refers to page 8-75 for removal of the instrument cluster and lists 13 steps for doing this. Has anyone made any sense of this:
INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS (Fig. 7)
Removal--Belvedere and Satellite Models
(1) Remove steering column trim cover (four mounting screws).
(2) Roll carpet back and remove lower mounting plate (four mounting bolts).
(3) Remove steering column clamp (two attaching nuts).
(4) Remove upper trim moulding (six screws), (so equipped).
(5) Remove left side trim moulding (one screw), (so equipped).
(6) Remove left side trim plate by removing one mounting screw and on “T” bolt, (so equipped).
(7) Remove radio trim plate (two screws).
(8) Remove the four switch bezel mounting screws and remove switch bezel.
(9) Remove ignition switch. See “Switch Replacement”.
(10) Remove center air conditioning opening cover (so equipped) by removing one mounting screw.
(11) Remove lower trim pad (six mounting bolts under the panel and four mounting screws from front panel).
(12) Disconnect speedometer cable from under panel.
(13) Remove six cluster mounting screws and rock the cluster out, disconnect wiring harness and remove cluster.

HUH?

What is the alternate way to extract the wiper switch anyone has used? Thanks for your help.
 
Yeah, it aint easy to get at anything in that area. If you don't drop the steering column, it is nearly impossible.
 
You can remove the switch panel from the dash pad but it is extremely difficult as the other two posters have mentioned and the possibility of breakage is great getting it back in is even harder like they said go from the back it's two Phillips screws so extension Universal and a lot of patience to get those two screws out and you can pull the switch down to be able to test and see what's going on
 
LOL !! You MIGHT get it out from the back side but you sure as hell will never get it back in !!

Why go to that trouble to test the switch ... test at the motor connections or at the bulkhead connectors.

The first test I'd make is the motor ground - make sure the brass strap is in place and there is continuity between the car body and the wiper motor.

My bet is the switch is NOT your problem.
 
It definitely can be removed from back side. I removed the ashtray so I could see better. I also have an old screwdriver that has a clip on it to help hold screw until it is started, made installation a whole lot easier.
 
If there was a mass concensus that you can't crap on the ceiling, there would be someone on here who insists they can !!
 
I've taken mine out from the back. I have not put it back in though....
 
Man this went to the real thoughts on y'alls mind what will be kicked next
 
LOL !! You MIGHT get it out from the back side but you sure as hell will never get it back in !!

Why go to that trouble to test the switch ... test at the motor connections or at the bulkhead connectors.

The first test I'd make is the motor ground - make sure the brass strap is in place and there is continuity between the car body and the wiper motor.

My bet is the switch is NOT your problem.
Thanks, you have a good point. Maybe I need to try some other testing first for wiring connections. I have verified that there is a good ground connection between the brass strap/motor and negative battery post.

Although I wonder, if the switch internal circuit breaker was tripped upon my first attempt to run the wiper motor (maybe due to the motor drawing too much current/shorted or whatever), whether that permanently damages the switch or would it reset? And how to ckeck for that?
 
There is NO internal circuit breaker in any switch!! Fuses will blow before switches burn out - unless some moron put too big of a fuse in the box. Checking your fuses should have been your first thought !! Heve you tested the motor itself by using jumers directly to it?
 
There is NO internal circuit breaker in any switch!! Fuses will blow before switches burn out - unless some moron put too big of a fuse in the box. Checking your fuses should have been your first thought !! Heve you tested the motor itself by using jumers directly to it?
Yes, my first thought WAS to check the fuses (before I'd read about the switch circiut breaker). But no fuses were out.

My FSM page 8-83 (panel switch tests) says the 2-speed switch contains a circuit breaker between terminals B and P. And I'd seen reference to a circuit breaker other places, and from the guy that rebuilds the switches on eBay. It appears that power going to the switch at "B" comes from the fuse box in ACC or RUN BEFORE going through any fuse. So I'm thinking that why it has the internal breaker.

I'm going to do some testing, which I should have done from the beginning!
 
You are learning that is part of the process we all go through on these cars by reading your manual and doing the references and the research is what makes you the smarter one on how to fix your car and not being led down the wrong path that service manual is your best friend it's boring and sometimes it not what you want maybe you got to read it two or three times I have to because of my learning disabilities but that's me so I hope you keep going and stay strong man we're here
 
As it wasn't advised to do, these would be the screws you'd be fishing around for...

Screenshot_20260416_140228_Photos.jpg
 
My FSM page 8-83 (panel switch tests) says the 2-speed switch contains a circuit breaker between terminals B and P. And I'd seen reference to a circuit breaker other places, and from the guy that rebuilds the switches on eBay. It appears that power going to the switch at "B" comes from the fuse box in ACC or RUN BEFORE going through any fuse. So I'm thinking that why it has the internal breaker.


Huh !!! you learn something new every day !!! Must be "heat sensitive" and resets when it cools down ... there is no external access to this "breaker". I have a 2-speed switch out of the car if you need a look at it.
 
Huh !!! you learn something new every day !!! Must be "heat sensitive" and resets when it cools down ... there is no external access to this "breaker". I have a 2-speed switch out of the car if you need a look at it.
Just curious, how did the switch you have get out of the car? Was it bad? Did you replace it with a new one?
 
Just curious, how did the switch you have get out of the car? Was it bad? Did you replace it with a new one?
I took that car down to a bare shell and rebuilt every piece. During the proces replaced the 2-speed motor with a 3-speed so replaced the switch while the dash was out and apart. There was nothing wrong with either the motor or the switch. The motor is long gone but I still have the switch.
 
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