69 Charger with 6.4/6060 combo
- Thread starter EvelBist
- Start date
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Bad ***
superbirdrag
Well-Known Member
The 392 look like if fits nice. Did you have to cut the fire wall? is it a car motor or truck motor ?
mtz01
Member
did u replace front suspension or use factory k member
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
I like it! Well...........All except the oil filter location. I remember seeing a Crosley 4 cyl car at a show with the filter mounted in that position. I always wondered how much clean-up was required after an oil change.
Cutting the firewall/trans tunnel all depends on the transmission you are using. If you use the Hotwire harness you will need to drill a hole in the firewall for the wires to pass through.
They make a 45 degree adapter to help clear the K member that mounts the oil filter in the front.
superbirdrag
Well-Known Member
I have seen that adapter . when installed it is directly above the k-frame mount and then the motor may not sit properly . I was thinking of just welding to the back of the f-frame motor mount (pass side) and shorten the motor mount , then cut away the factory k-frame mount to make the angle adapter fit . Any thoughts ?
I ended up cutting off the end where it contacted the K member. The big trick was finding an oil filter to fit the space. I was at summit racing and they ended up calling Chrysler and the part number Chrysler said to use with that combo was 4892339AA. It is a smaller filter but it will fit in the space.
superbirdrag
Well-Known Member
I believe that filter is the shorty I use on my 5.7 hemi ram,
superbirdrag
Well-Known Member
Anyone have a opinion on what hydraulic clutch kit is the best dollar value one to buy , I only know of McLeod and American power train , this will be a stock 5.7 and a833 4spd ,just a driver in the city
rydog1130
Member
Just wondering what the progress was on this and if you could answer some of the questions on here! I want to do this with my 68 and would really like to know what engine mounts, headers, trans, etc youre using and any other mods besides the obvious trans tunnel mod... looks great keep us posted!
Rydog, I did the 6.4L with a 545RFE trans. I used TTi motor mounts and headers, Hotwire harness, the rest of the components (radiator, sensors, fuel pump and tank, etc all from Bouchillon Performance). I used the stock crossmember and cleaned it up and drilled new holes. Are you going with power steering? AC? Crate motor or tear out? They sell a bracket to mount the oil filter on the front of the motor, the only mod I had to do was cut it shorter.
rydog1130
Member
Not sure on AC at this point but def want power steering, did you have to do anything with the driveshaft? I was thinking of buying this turn key set up and adapting it to my car, but if a lot of this ( https://www.clevelandpap.com/shop/e...e-auto-trans-turn-key-pallet-470hp-62k-miles/ ) is unnecessary and cheaper to go the route you did by buying all the other accessories then I would go that way, was yours crate or out of a truck/car? I've never done a swap like this but I want a modern drivetrain with great hp and betterfuel economy. I'm just doing my homework and trying to figure out the best way to do this! Thanks!!
I had to shorten my driveshaft for the 5 spd transmission compared to the 727, in addition to a different yoke. The 727 will fit but there is a vibration when you use it. Mine came from a totaled Challenger with 182 miles on it. I bought it with the complete engine, 8spd transmission and wiring harness and ECM. I was unable to use the trans and went 545RFE vs NAG1, just because it was easier then trying to find the parts needed and my harness was already built for it. The Hotwire harness was built for the engine, trans and the car, went in easily. You will need some form of a fuel pump, and tank mod. The Cleveland Performance is not a bad option, you could resell what was not used to recoup your money. The only thing I see usable on that pallet is the core engine. You may have some issues grafting in the transmission, dash cluster, column, and shifter as I am not sure what you would need to run the engine. A new crate engine will run you about 9k just for the engine. You will need to add the alternator, PS and other accessories for added cost on top of the other components listed (harness, exhaust, mounts, computer). I would first decide what transmission you want to run, auto or manual. Then I would try giving Randy at Bouchillon Performance a call and see what he thinks. He is a good resource and can build you what you need to do the job.
Here's the link to my build and the issues I had: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/545rfe-trans-tunnel-and-other-questions.125232/
Here's the link to my build and the issues I had: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/545rfe-trans-tunnel-and-other-questions.125232/
Similar threads
