69 Convertible Top operation

[dart6]

The top struggles to go up and close on it's own without me giving it a helping hand. Once it reaches it's height above the rear seat it has no trouble going forward to the latches on it's own.
The top goes down under it's own steam no problem.
What should i be looking for? It would seem it's low on fluid, where is the location to top up and what fluid would i use?

 

[Longknife]

The fluid can be added to a small port on top of the pump assy. You can use ATF Suffix A Dexron. It sounds like the top is binding to me, or the pump/motor are worn. The tops always run slower on the up stroke but should not need help. Do you have a service manual?. Best investment you will make!!!...LK

 

[Fran Blacker]

Can download a service manual at mymopar.com

 

[Ron H]

If the top is not used often, there could be air in the system or low fluid. Any evidence of leaking? My fluid port is on the side of the reservoir as an air gap remains by design. Check the operation of the top side to side; is one side pulling up more than the other? Indication of a binding issue (not as often as tired components). I ended up replacing the entire system after a couple of years doing it piecemeal. Rebuilt the old top motor and worked a little better. Replaced the lines and pistons and later the motor. Originally it used brake fluid…nice how some leaking over decades skanked the paint/primer. I switched to power steering fluid.

 

[Durandal25]

Air in the system sir. Its hydrolic and will need a bit of fluid added. You may need to remove the back seat to get to the pump. It has a rubber stopper on the top left of the motor....its located dead center behind the read seat. boot covers it from the trunk.....remove stopper and see if you can get a reading of how much fluid is in there. The plastic nylon tubes connecting to the pistons on both sides of the car may have air in them so cycle the top up and down while looking to see if you can make that determination. Add three oz of fluid and repeat the up and down cycle.....the air should come out........make sure to do a full up and down cycle....each time you do this a bit of air will come out......check for leaks. The fluid in these systems varies....but make sure if the old fluid is super low it may need a flush....reach out to me and I'll give a good idea how to do that.

 

[dart6]

Thanks guys, great information. It doesn't get used much as it's in storage. One side does bind. I'll remove the rear seat and check the fluid level and cycle it to remove any air

 

[Ron H]

Have a helper when working the top to keep it even to avoid stressing the frame, mechanism is heavier than it might look. As posted, could be air and/or low fluid (best cases) a few up & downs may do it. You may know this: Takes good battery power and let the motor cool down after a couple of tries, or if it sticks, don't keep operating it without assist. ID what fluid is in it and stay with it (no mixing fluids) until you're ready to flush out the system.

 

[dart6]

What fluid did the factory put in?

 

[Ron H]

With my ride it was brake fluid. Eek. Great for eating up the body coatings. Not sure if this was changed as mine is a '63. When I restored the car I finished rebuilding the system getting a new motor. Old one I rebuilt and worked (not as nice as the new one) sold it on fleabay.

 

[dart6]

The fluid can be added to a small port on top of the pump assy. You can use ATF Suffix A Dexron. It sounds like the top is binding to me, or the pump/motor are worn. The tops always run slower on the up stroke but should not need help. Do you have a service manual?. Best investment you will make!!!...LK

You can use ATF Suffix A Dexron - we don't have that downunder but i think Dexron 111 might supercede it

 

[chtampa]

I installed grease fittings in the hinges.

 

[Longknife]

What fluid did the factory put in?

See my post above, taken directly from the factory service manual,.,,,LK

 

[Longknife]

The pump should be accessible from the trunk, I have had several converts and never needed to take out the back seat for access. If the fluid level checks out ok try putting a few drops of a light machine oil on each hinge, these probably haven't been lubed since new!

 

[Longknife]

With my ride it was brake fluid. Eek. Great for eating up the body coatings. Not sure if this was changed as mine is a '63. When I restored the car I finished rebuilding the system getting a new motor. Old one I rebuilt and worked (not as nice as the new one) sold it on fleabay.

Never hear of using brake fluid in a Conv top pump, trans fluid, hydraulic fluid, Hyd jack fluid, all these will work,,,but NEVER brake fluid!....LK

 

[Ron H]

From my FSM - see "Add HD brake fluid"

 

[Fran Blacker]

Who woulda thunk?

 

[Ron H]

Who woulda thunk?

Lol, yeah imagine using brake fluid as opposed to say the mega-selection of friendlier/safer fluids? And the damn filler port in my ’63 is on the side (end) of the reservoir. Couldn’t access it from the trunk. As it was had to pull the motor out partially from its perch to get to the filler. Used a syringe to fill it peeking in the port with a flashlight to see how full it was before it came flowing out. When I first accessed the system, likely hadn’t been touched for 20-30 years. What a mess it was from seepage. Well, those areas were easier to strip before recoating the interior of the car. And imagined the possibility of a line bursting with brake fluid. Those old lines I took out were in bad shape…puffy and soft as a baby’s behind..

 

[72redbird]

My 69 Road Runner really lagged on one side bad, almost to the point of having to help it out of the well. Like yours went down fine, it was just coming back up. I ended up having to replace the cylinder on the right side. When I replaced it, I lubed hinge points also like mentioned above. Worked like brand new after that. Also mine had transmission fluid in it.

 

[dart6]

More great posts, appreciated

 

[Longknife]

Ron, Your '63 what used brake fluid?