• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

69 Roadrunner Electrical Issues

bing69

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:44 AM
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
69
Reaction score
21
Location
Mason City, Iowa USA
Working on a project car. Body and drivetrain are o.k. Pulled the Dash out because nothing worked. Positive to the Alt. gauge was hot; now its not. Turn signals worked; now they don't. Bench tested the gauges, found out the board is bad; I could only get the oil light to come on. I've got a new board, dome dimmer switch ordered. But why doesn't the once hot Alt. Positive wire hot anymore? Why don't the turn signals work when they used to. Brake lights work O.K.. Looking at the fuses, they all look good; but only #4 and #5 have power; #1, #2, and #6 don't. Any help would be appreciated.
 
might be the bad board, and the regulator on the cluster.
 
Or,,, you moved another wire that was ready to fail.
 
yeah, the solver rectangular part that goes in the back of the cluster
 
Did you check continuity from the ammeter terminal to/through the bulkhead connector? Connection could have worked loose..
 
69 Roadrunner - Behind the Alt gauge is some sort a material that keeps the negative and positive posts separate. It also keeps the positive post from touching the body of the dash cluster. Same material on the backside of the circuit board for the same reason. My question is "What is the material and where can I get some new?" Is there a good substitute? Mine are both crumbling.
 
I've came across these kits on Classic Industries that has that piece included.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/coronet/parts/mb810803.html

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/coronet/parts/mb810802.html

Not sure if that is everything you need, there are probably more restoration shops that reproduce these.
I don't remember any insulator being behind the circuit board.

Just a kind reminder to make absolutely sure you install the amp gauge properly so i will never touch the housing, big fire potential!
I've bypassed mine for that reason.
 
I've came across these kits on Classic Industries that has that piece included.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/coronet/parts/mb810803.html

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1969/dodge/coronet/parts/mb810802.html

Not sure if that is everything you need, there are probably more restoration shops that reproduce these.
I don't remember any insulator being behind the circuit board.

Just a kind reminder to make absolutely sure you install the amp gauge properly so i will never touch the housing, big fire potential!
I've bypassed mine for that reason.
Thanks Wietse
 
Power distribution starts with a dark blue fusible link usually terminated on the starter relay, goes to the bulkhead terminal then (red inside) to the ammeter. Out of the ammeter the black wire distributes power to the fuses, ignition, interior lights and various other devices. The black wire also goes out the bulkhead terminal to the alternator and the horn relay. You have to start there first. Make sure you have power first. In a Mopar the bulkhead terminal is always a good suspect.
As for the fuses, some are full time power "unswitched", some are given power by the ignition switch/key and one only has power when the lights are turned on. If you have power to two of the fuses then there is power inside.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69BelvedereGTXSatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top