So how did you rebuild a cracked dash pad? I don't think I have seen how anyone has fixed there dash pad.
I tried a few different methods with varying success. I did a ton of research online for the best way and none really had a cracked dash as bad as this was. Here is the basic process if you have time and a lot of patience.
1. Realize up front that it will not be perfect and getting the perfect texture back is almost impossible. Also realize that the end product will be more "solid" and less like a "pad". So, good for a driver, not a true restoration. If you are ok with that then read on...
2. Remove the pad. inspect the studs that hold it to the dash. If these are rusted off or are not well connected to the framework underneath, you are wasting your time. If they are loose, clean away the soft parts and JB weld the stud back more solid. Must be metal to metal.
3. Get a air grinder setup with a roloc disc and grind every crack into a V and remove ALL foam that is loose. This gets kind of crazy and you take off a lot of material, but what you need is a solid surface to build on. Take your time and when you think you are done, push the edges of your grind and if it cracks easily, go at it again. This is the foundation.
4. Get a can of Bondo Fiberglass Jelly. Yes, the Jelly. It is pretty easy to work with, thick. Use it to fill the V's grooves to build thin layers up. After each layer review the shape you have. Don't use it for tiny gaps, this is for the bulk filler. Sand with 80 then 120 between layers or if you feel you are close.
5. After you get the general shape close. I used Rage Gold body filler to make a smooth surface I could shape. Again, thin layers at a time and pay close attention to the shape. Sand layers 80 then 120 then 240 then 360/400 with a durablock and final finish with paper in hand. If you think youa re done, take a bare hand, close your eyes and run it slowly across the surface. If you feel anything not smooth, fill and sand as needed. Repeat.
6.Ok so now about a week has passed (LOL). Now spray the entire pad with a high build primer. Rattle can is fine. Let dry. Inspect again for any visible defects. If you see a visible filler transition or anything, mark it with a paint pen. use a very bright light.
7. Now back to the sanding. Remove those paint pen marks and make sure all visible defects are gone. Sand whole thing smooth.
8. Now here is where I experimented a lot. I tried to reproduce the texture of the dash. I tried using felt rollers, smooth rollers, sponges, even dabbing with a textured cloth. None did a great job reproducing the texture and smooth looks cheesy. So, I whipped out my HVLP, setup with a 1.8mm and used a can of Kylon Colormatch Flat black Acrylic LATEX paint ($9 at Lowes). Krylon says "not for spraying" but I found that if you spray normal it covers well and comes out very flat. Back off about 12" (fog it) from the surface and it provides a textured surface. Not perfect, but not smooth. I would say its pretty good.
9. I liked the look so much I did the whole dash and the pads. I know its latex so its not as durable as urethane, but hey, see step 1. And clean up was a breeze because its water-based.
10. Let dry at least 48 hours since its water based. Install and check it out.
Some tips:
Patience is key.
The lower pad has fake sewing lines that will require you to "carve" them back in.
If you stress the shape, the material will crack again. Touch-up may be required.
Many beers were consumed in the process of doing this.
If you have any questions, you can ask here. (better pics below)
RGAZ