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69 Super Bee restoration

BAFRAID

She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
Local time
12:15 PM
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
806
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1,097
Location
Temecula, CA
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Getting ready to lift the engine out. I have all the tranny bolts out and the two engine mount bolts removed. This thing won't budge! Am I missing something?
 
All wires, exhaust are off. I don't see that it is splitting from the tranny even with a little lift from the hoist.
 
You planning to use headers when you reassemble? Just curious cause those cast manifolds are probably not going to survive lifting that engine out.

As previously mentioned, torque converter BOLTS.

Also, 1/4 ton rating is marginal for what you are doing.
 
All good to know! I plan on original exhaust. Besides the bolts around the outer edge of the tranny, where else are there bolts(torque converter). I'll move the beam back to 1/2 ton.

Thank you.
 
Any specific location I should
Use on the engine to bolt on the lifting chain?
 
Motor mounts could be seized to know member. It may help to lighten the load removing intake and exhaust manifolds as well as water pump and housing. Use a chain bolted securely to 4 corners of the heads.
Good luck with project. Keep us posted:thumbsup:
 
uhhhh those engines are heavy. might I ask bout those straps? a good heavy log chain bolted to intake bolts or other suitable bolts is good. those oem exh man are worth a few bucks , careful with them..
 
Thank you all very much for the input. The straps are military grade 1inch that we use to use to tow and lift some heavy equip out in the field. I will remove some more of the external parts to lighten the load. This is my first full size, real muscle car project. All small air cooled VWs prior. I use to carry those little engines around in my arms. Lol
 
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Here is a very general question? Where do you start with something like this? Is there a specific order or way to remove these panels without jeopardizing the structure of the car?
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Nice car, the 69 Bee is probably my favorite body style.

If you are pulling the engine without the transmission, the 4 converter bolts need to come out and you should be able to seperate the two a few inches to clear the converter nub. Just go back around and insure all bolts are out.

As for where to start, it depends. Are your frame rails good? What do you intend on replacing? I did mine piecemeal and never had too much undone at once. I started with the front framerails and dog house. Then moved to the rockers, then did the rear end (tailpanel, trunk and rockers), then replaced the dutchman panel and window corners, then replaced the roof.

I think the big thing is to brace the car when removing large chunks or subframe rails. Read through a few restoration threads as there are some great ones which should give you an idea. Best of luck, I'll be following this one.
 
Thank you Threewood! Frame rails and torsion boxes are good. It's just the lower edge of the rear quarters, trunk, and lower end of the wheel wells. I hate to remove all that metal, although it may be easier than piecing in sections. Just hate to remove so much original metal. I will take it little by little. Maybe start in a less affected area, build confidence and then hit the larger areas. I have done metal work on a 1964 land cruiser so I have some experience.
 
I did pretty much what you are going to do. My outer wheel housing lips were rotted so I patched in the outer section from AMD pieces. More fitting but the rest of the metal was good so I wanted to save it plus I didn't want to disturb the roof support. The seam is hidden by the quarter panel so I hit it with body seam sealer and top coated with rust bullet. After I patched in the outers, I patched the lower wheel house sections that were rotted (the flange area that spot welds to the floor pan.) I then fit the floorpan. If you fit the entire piece I have seen guys cut around the roof support and notch the new piece to fit it.

Just take it one section at a time and don't skip around. It is real easy to feel overwhelmed.

Here is a picture
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of mine sectioned in... I used the rotted out piece as a template.
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Thank you again Threewood! It good to hear from others who have done the same thing.
 
I've been waiting on an update, how are you making out with the beast?
 
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I apologize for the long delay since my last post. Life has changed tremendously. Moved twice, got divorced, got remarried and my wife now is supportive and motivated to have me work on the Bee. Maybe that’s because she says it scares her the way it looks now. Anyhow, a lot has changed. I finally got the engine back from the machine shop after year. It’s pretty much a symbol. Still needs a few things though. I’ve started doing a lot of work on the rear end of the car. Most recently I got the old trunk floor removed and all the rails ready to receive the new trunk floor. I’ve tried to watch as many videos and do as much research as possible to figure out how to go about removing panels and fixing stuff without affecting the shape of the car too much. Basically I’ve been advised to get the new trunk floor in and then move from one side to the other replacing quarter panels at any other sections that need done.
On these engine pictures I realize the air cleaner base is supposed to be black. You’ll also notice on the front edge of it there’s a square section cut out. The previous owner had the a/c compressor mounted on the block which didn’t allow the air cleaner base to sit down flat so he decided to cut a chunk out. 470E0B69-DF45-4B02-8921-1866EF67948C.jpeg EC318CB0-89A5-4B65-9A2D-B2BF42EC83CF.jpeg
 
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Here are some pictures of the metal work I’ve been doing on the rear end. I’m open to any advice or input about the best way to do things or anything I’m doing wrong. I used a product called Corroseal to convert the rusted metal. Does anyone know if this is able to be welded through or would I have to grind it off in order to weld the trunk floor in? 7E332DF9-8BF7-44DA-8773-17BC3F61DD8B.jpeg
 
You saved ur $80 chrome oil breather didn’t ya? That’s what the repops go for!
 
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