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69 Turn Signal Switch Wiring Order

69 R/T

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I bought a new OER turn signal switch/harness assembly, but the connector block is not wired. I need to plug in the wires in a specific order into the block. My old harness is gone, so I have no reference, and the service manual shows the opposite connector side which has some different colored wires on that side. I found this photo, and I think the order is correct. Can anyone please verify?

Of course no instructions or wiring reference was in the box!
20180814_113152__Steering_Column_Wiring.jpg
 
Ask and yea shall receive... '69 Bee. Not sure what that Orange wire would be in your picture.. there's only 7 wires on the switch ribbon cable.
beerestoration2018 1381.JPG
 
Ask and yea shall receive... '69 Bee. Not sure what that Orange wire would be in your picture.. there's only 7 wires on the switch ribbon cable.
View attachment 707115
Outstanding!!! The orange wire is a mystery, however the order is the same. Those barbed ends on the wire are a one way deal. Once I insert them, that's it, they're locked in. Thanks a bunch!!!
 
Orange wires are usually acc. lights. Maybe a light in in the column shift indicator?
 
thanks a bunch guys, that's very helpful and useful to me. Since my car is a 4-speed, I don't have an orange wire, the mystery is solved. I would have hated to put the wire in the wrong socket then not have anything working properly.
 
Thanks for all the info in this thread. I bought a flaming river steering column (has GM Style connector) and I need to match the wiring of my bulkhead (shown below).. Can anyone tell me which wire goes to what in the bulkhead shown below so I can match the two up?

Thanks,

beerestoration2018-1381-jpg.jpg
 
Thanks for all the info in this thread. I bought a flaming river steering column (has GM Style connector) and I need to match the wiring of my bulkhead (shown below).. Can anyone tell me which wire goes to what in the bulkhead shown below so I can match the two up?

Sorry all, Flaming river came through so no help needed...



Thanks,

View attachment 991362[/QUOTE

Wiring Details for FR Column.PNG
 
Before you button everything up, check to see if you can manually turn off the turn signal. On my '68 replacement switch the only way I could cancel the turn signal was with the steering wheel. If I used my turn signal to change lanes, it was stuck on until I could turn the steering wheel far enough to cancel it. If you have this same problem I can give you the fix I used.
 
Before you button everything up, check to see if you can manually turn off the turn signal. On my '68 replacement switch the only way I could cancel the turn signal was with the steering wheel. If I used my turn signal to change lanes, it was stuck on until I could turn the steering wheel far enough to cancel it. If you have this same problem I can give you the fix I used.


Appreciate that brother...
 
Before you button everything up, check to see if you can manually turn off the turn signal. On my '68 replacement switch the only way I could cancel the turn signal was with the steering wheel. If I used my turn signal to change lanes, it was stuck on until I could turn the steering wheel far enough to cancel it. If you have this same problem I can give you the fix I used.
My 69 runner dose the same thing what was the solution for that. Won't cancel by hand only turn the steering wheel.
 
Number one. I fixed the problem with my switch, but I want everyone to know right off the bat that if done wrong your switch will probably be junk.
Number two. Does your switch look like the first picture?
The next two pictures point out the two parts of the switch that get stuck, preventing you from manually cancelling the turn signal.
In my stick figure drawing, figure one shows those two pieces with the signal off, and number two with the signal on. When the piece that looks like the numeral one clicks past the piece that looks like a slice of pizza, they get locked.
What I did was to take a razor blade and shave a VERY SMALL piece of the pointy end of the pizza slice off (figure 3). I CANNOT EMPHASIZE TOO MUCH that you start VERY SMALL, try the switch to see if you can manually cancel it, and if you still can't, shave a LITTLE more off till you can. Work on only one at a time. When the switch is in the off position, the overlap as shown in figure 1 keeps the switch in the off position. If you cut too much off, the switch will be sloppy in the off position, and if you have no overlap at all, it
may even drop down into the left signal on position just from the car bouncing.
This shaving operation must be done on both sides of the switch. I don't mean to the two parts I point out, I mean there are two of these sets of locks, one at the top of the switch assembly, and another at the bottom. Both of the "numeral 1" pieces can be seen in the first picture. The one at the top looks like a 1, and the one at the bottom like a backwards 1.
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First post but long time reader. I have a 69 RR that I did as posted above. Classic Industries cam. I can cancel manually but turning the wheel does nothing. The cam is not broken. Does the ring the has thr tail that kind of looks like the letter "P" have to be in the right position or what do I have screwed up? Is there somewhere that has photos of how it all should be put back together?
 
Light taps with a hammer, in the direction that "opens" the curl, and it will move fairly easy.
 
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