'70 B Body Power Brake Conversion

[MoparHonda]

My '70 GTX has manual drum brakes, I'd like to convert to power brakes.

Looked around, I see a lot of reproduction boosters along with the needed hardware...

I'd like to go with an original Mopar booster, like the cars came with from the factory. Can anyone offer any help/suggestions?

 

[SDCoronet]

I got mine via ebay. There are a few outfits that specialize in sale and restoration of brake parts (Dwayne the Ram Man for example), but the price from those guys wont be cheap. Good luck on your search.

 

[RJRENTON]

I got mine via ebay. There are a few outfits that specialize in sale and restoration of brake parts (Dwayne the Ram Man for example), but the price from those guys wont be cheap. Good luck on your search.

I have used the Ram Man also.....true, not inexpensive but first class stuff. I believe for a 1970 B body with drum brakes, the booster was a BENDIX single diaphragm unit or possibly a Midland Ross booster. I think Wagner also may provided a booster....not sure. Consider Booster Dewey (sorry I don't have the web site info...just google it) for info about your project. You may need the fire wall reinforcing plate and hardware plus maybe the master cylinder push rod to go with booster and master cylinder. Just my opinion of course.
BTW....My 70 GTX uses a Bendix tandem diaphragm booster becsuse of disc/ drum configuration and the six barrel engine (RS23V0A******).
BOB RENTON

 

[Sixpactogo]

I have a booster that should be correct for your car. It came from my 68 Charger with drum brakes. I had it rebuilt by Booster Dewey back in 2015 when I built my car. I upgraded to disc brakes and needed to upgrade to a dual diaphragm. I have everything you need except for a master cylinder. I have $300.00 in it. $250.00 plus shipping. PM me if interested

 

[Joe66satellite]

So six pack to go, I know we've had some of this discussion before on another thread but please how did the brakes work out after you went with the dual diaphragm and how tough was that to get out and reinstall I'm dreading that job thank you

 

[Sixpactogo]

With the single diaphragm booster, I could push the brake pedal as hard as I could and still drive away with little trouble. Now with the dual diaphragm booster the car stops as good as any car that doesn't have ABS. As far as the project of replacing the booster, it is not all that bad. The worst part for me was getting at the upper right side nut under the dash. I used a 3/8" swivel knuckle and a couple extensions. Once you get those 4 nuts off and unhook the linkage to the brake pedal, all your work is under the hood. Unhook the brake lines from the master cylinder and you can pull the whole works out. One thing I found when I tried to put the new dual booster in, the rubber boot that goes through the firewall was larger in diameter and I needed to ream the hole in the firewall to get it in. The new boosters are made in China or somewhere and require a larger hole. The backing plate is no problem as it has a large enough hole. The new booster sticks out a couple inches more than the old one but your old brake lines should be long enough the re-use. If you are using a new master cylinder, be sure to bench bleed it before installing. It really is not all that bad of a job. To me, Bleeding the brakes is the worst part since it is more up and down activity that my knees don't like. Having a good set of tools is mandatory for wrenching on these toys.

 

[junebug]

Pirate Jack on ebay has a good deal on a complete setup, He even has the bendix style dual diaphragm booster.