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70 Charger metal work questions

coloradodanny

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I just got my car Back from sand blasting.
I’ve removed almost everything that is being replaced. I still have a little more demo to do but I wanted to get advice before starting in. I’m decent at welding and fabrication. Im skilled at demo and measuring. I’m semi retired and have lots of time to be in the garage and devote myself to this labor of love. Because of the nature of my self employment I am skilled at many thing that translate into this project.

Below is my metal I’ve ordered. They are listed as received and not received.

I have my hood and fenders. They require some work before install but it’s fairly simple.

I also have a partial rear roof clip I’m planning to graph in for the upper rear window/ roof rot.



Question:
After looking at my car pics and the parts I’ve received and haven’t received, can you give me an plan or idea on the order of operation to start installing for fitment?
I’ve been studying the manuals and watching hours of YouTube tutorials. I know every car is different. That’s why I’ve included my parts and pics so you’ll know what I need to do.
If I need to wait for more metal to show up what other things can I be doing to keep busy.
I know to start from the inside and work my way out and to fit check. Any advice is very appreciated.

Received


Front Valance panel

Rear Valance panel

Under seat floor pan

Trunk pan

Rear corner x2

Upper shock cross member

Trunk extensions x2

Door skin

Rear crossmember

Trunk support brace

Rear frame rail (only replacing one)



Not received


Valence reinforcement trunk x2

Footwell pans x2

Front floor pan

Full Rear quarters x2

Rear outer wheel housing x 2

Deck filler

deck filler lower

Rear lower window frame

Rear inner wheel housing x2

Rear frame rail x2

Package tray extensions x2

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6F51AD9E-CF64-4820-A014-6B38424B668F.jpeg


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You have a loose caboose there. Right now that car is flexed and moved all over the place. My advice is get it in a spot and get it level. Make multiple floor to frame supports to keep it fixed and level. You will need to fit and refit every piece before any welding can be started.
 
One other thing is buy lots of clamps and Cleco fasteners to help get everything in place. A concept a well known perfectionist body man told be is this. Fit the hood to the cowl because the cowl is fixed. Then front fenders and next doors working your way back. It is a lot to deal with but keep it all in mind. Once you start welding and something is off your nightmare just started.
 
Read through all 7 pages. Several helpful tips. All makes sense.Thanks man. I’m doing so much metal replacement it’s nice to have as many reference points as I can get. Not a rookie except to 68-70 chargers. I appreciate your thorough explanations and good work. Can you clarify the “jack process”? I’m assuming your talking about using my jack to relieve weight and let the new parts rest on the old parts.
 
Can you clarify the “jack process”?

when the trunk pan is welded to the frame rails and rear crossmember; it may need to be jacked up a little to meet the tail light panel, one guy in that thread had the opposite and had to pull it down a little....... the point is, it is flexible; and can be moved up or down to get it to the "happy place". I emphasize NOT welding the trunk pan to the inner wheelhouses until last, as this would impede your ability to raise or lower.......we are only talking an inch or so, probably less; but it is very important to making everything fit.......and one side may need a little more than the other, it all only fits one way
 
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