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70 Road Runner Turn signals

Ethan

Active Member
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Location
Wyoming
I am having issues with the turn signals. The video can explain it better than words. I have looked at the fuse box, traced wires under the dash. These blinkers are kicking my ***

Http://sendanywhe.re/76I3FDDF
 
I can't download the video. What is happening (or not happening)?
 
I cant see the video either, but I know from experience on the purple car.. Grounds, grounds and grounds. Check them thoroughly.
 
Without watching the video first...check that turn signal switch - any signs of burning on terminations - toss it in the bin and buy a new one.
Your turn signals rely on the brake light circuit to be good also.
Check all grounds at front and rear of car at the lights.

The cancel cam is just a mechanism to change direction on the switch.

@Ethan ....a YouTube account is the easiest way to post videos here :thumbsup:

Welcome to FBBO....please go to the Welcome Wagon and introduce yourself with pics of this Road Runner. :)

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/forums/welcome-wagon.9/
 
I cant see the video either, but I know from experience on the purple car.. Grounds, grounds and grounds. Check them thoroughly.
Could not agree more. Once you confirm all grounds are good, then go elsewhere.
 
Thanks kiwigtx for posting the video so others could see it. I bought the car exactly one one ago today and was told the blinkers and horn did NOT work. He said the ground wire in the steering wheel for the horn broke and that's when both horn and turn signals stopped working. The ith your reply of "any signs of burning on terminations"
 
Thanks kiwigtx for posting the video so others could see it. I bought the car exactly one month ago today and was told the blinkers and horn did NOT work. He said the ground wire in the steering wheel for the horn broke and that's when both horn and turn signals stopped working. The wires going to the horn relay had the insulation burnt off them for 2+ inches connecting to the relay and also relay was melted. With your reply of "any signs of burning on terminations" nothing looks burnt but I think I it would be wise to order a turn signal switch I found on classic industries for $115. Some cheaper on eBay but don't know the quality. I think It would be wise to start there and while that's in the way I'll go through the grounds as I got a service manual in the mail today. Any other suggestions for now?

Sorry for the delay of response, but I do work night shift
 
I should say none of the terminations in the steering column look burnt but the wires connecting to horn relay are burnt along with relay
 
Pics

IMG_4453.JPG IMG_4466.JPG IMG_4705.JPG IMG_8501.jpeg IMG_8493.jpeg IMG_4466.JPG
 
One question, when you have the four ways on, do the bulbs front and rear flash as they should, not just the test lamp.
 
One question, when you have the four ways on, do the bulbs front and rear flash as they should, not just the test lamp.


Yes, They do. I have flashers on the dash lamps as well as outside all the way around
 
I was out checking grounds this morning when I remember somewhere I read the dimmer switch could possibly be the culprit. I checked dimmer switch and it's hard to tell if it's even lit up at all . Almost no lights at all on the dash. While looking at the schematics I don't see where that could be the problem ?

image.jpg image.jpg
 
Yes, They do. I have flashers on the dash lamps as well as outside all the way around

Good. I should have included asking if your brake lights work properly with and without the emergency flashers on. Applying the brake should override the rear flashing lights.
It's a process of elimination. If your lights work properly under that specific state that tells me a couple things -
1. Your lights have an adequate ground because the brake, turn signal & flasher all use the same bulb element and wiring.
2. Your turn signal switch, at rest only, is OK.
3. Your emergency flasher is good.
Now, there are two issues to deal with. There may be some commonality but the responsibility of the steering column /mechanism harness to honk the horns is to deliver a ground potential to the horn relay via the black/tracer wire from the column. But, when it comes to the lights, the turn signal mechanism switches (+) positive potentials only.
I've looked at the video many time but I just cannot see it clearly enough. There are some things to keep in mind. First, the emergency flasher is a different circuit and feeds the turn signal mechanism on a different lead than the turn signal flasher. The turn signal mechanism's responsibility is to actuate the turn signal flasher and to route that signal to the appropriate rear lamp while maintaining the brake signal integrity to the opposing rear lamp and flash only signal to the front lamps. That's a lot but you have neither left or right signals which have different contact positions within the turn signal mechanism. The common point is the toward the turn signal flasher.
That's not saying your old turn signal mechanism is good by any means but it is important to understand that the mechanism/harness have different jobs, some easy like the horn (-) and some complicated like switching certain signals to some bulbs while maintaining other signals to the rest (+).
 
Thanks kiwigtx for posting the video so others could see it. I bought the car exactly one month ago today and was told the blinkers and horn did NOT work. He said the ground wire in the steering wheel for the horn broke and that's when both horn and turn signals stopped working. The wires going to the horn relay had the insulation burnt off them for 2+ inches connecting to the relay and also relay was melted. With your reply of "any signs of burning on terminations" nothing looks burnt but I think I it would be wise to order a turn signal switch I found on classic industries for $115. Some cheaper on eBay but don't know the quality. I think It would be wise to start there and while that's in the way I'll go through the grounds as I got a service manual in the mail today. Any other suggestions for now?

Sorry for the delay of response, but I do work night shift

Hmmmm...... I wonder if the broken horn wire shorted out the turn signals? The horn ground wire is a short black wire that you can see if you remove the horn cover from the steering wheel. You can test the horn itself by running a long jumper wire from the + side of the battery directly to the horn connector (the horn is grounded to the body by it's bracket) & it should "beep" if its good. From there, I think I'd replace/repair the wiring and if that didn't work, replace the horn relay.

For the turns signals, maybe just look at the wiring diagram & trace the power? Somebody here might post a link to factory wiring diagrams & if they don't send me a private message and I will e-mail the diagrams to you. These guys are right about grounds too....I've had TONS of ground wire issues & I even ran a separate ground wire to each of my hood turn signals.

Oh yeah, and replace the flasher itself. That's the problem with mine right now. Neither turn signal works & it's my flasher for sure (you have one for turn signals + another one for the emergency flashers)
 
Good. I should have included asking if your brake lights work properly with and without the emergency flashers on. Applying the brake should override the rear flashing lights.
It's a process of elimination. If your lights work properly under that specific state that tells me a couple things -
1. Your lights have an adequate ground because the brake, turn signal & flasher all use the same bulb element and wiring.
2. Your turn signal switch, at rest only, is OK.
3. Your emergency flasher is good.
Now, there are two issues to deal with. There may be some commonality but the responsibility of the steering column /mechanism harness to honk the horns is to deliver a ground potential to the horn relay via the black/tracer wire from the column. But, when it comes to the lights, the turn signal mechanism switches (+) positive potentials only.
I've looked at the video many time but I just cannot see it clearly enough. There are some things to keep in mind. First, the emergency flasher is a different circuit and feeds the turn signal mechanism on a different lead than the turn signal flasher. The turn signal mechanism's responsibility is to actuate the turn signal flasher and to route that signal to the appropriate rear lamp while maintaining the brake signal integrity to the opposing rear lamp and flash only signal to the front lamps. That's a lot but you have neither left or right signals which have different contact positions within the turn signal mechanism. The common point is the toward the turn signal flasher.
That's not saying your old turn signal mechanism is good by any means but it is important to understand that the mechanism/harness have different jobs, some easy like the horn (-) and some complicated like switching certain signals to some bulbs while maintaining other signals to the rest (+).

Wow, never thought to try that. Just did and no brake lights while hazards engaged. I am thinking what puplebbeper mentioned. When whatever crazy happened with the horn terminations (pictures in previous post) fired something in that turn signal switch.
 
Hmmmm...... I wonder if the broken horn wire shorted out the turn signals? The horn ground wire is a short black wire that you can see if you remove the horn cover from the steering wheel. You can test the horn itself by running a long jumper wire from the + side of the battery directly to the horn connector (the horn is grounded to the body by it's bracket) & it should "beep" if its good. From there, I think I'd replace/repair the wiring and if that didn't work, replace the horn relay.

For the turns signals, maybe just look at the wiring diagram & trace the power? Somebody here might post a link to factory wiring diagrams & if they don't send me a private message and I will e-mail the diagrams to you. These guys are right about grounds too....I've had TONS of ground wire issues & I even ran a separate ground wire to each of my hood turn signals.

Oh yeah, and replace the flasher itself. That's the problem with mine right now. Neither turn signal works & it's my flasher for sure (you have one for turn signals + another one for the emergency flashers)
You Say there is two flashers on a 70 ? One for hazards and one for turn signals?
 
Wow, never thought to try that. Just did and no brake lights while hazards engaged. I am thinking what puplebbeper mentioned. When whatever crazy happened with the horn terminations (pictures in previous post) fired something in that turn signal switch.
PurpleBeeper is right, the only protection for the horns is the circuit breaker. If the issue was a short in the turn signal mechanism (horn ground to lamp leads) it could have taken out the flasher but the rest of the contacts for the lamps which are fused should have resulted in obvious blown lamp fuses. I really think you have two different problems here so concentrate on just one at a time for now. The horn test is a good test and the simplest circuit. You can actuate them once you have good wiring and a good relay by externally grounding the third contact on the relay (don't connect it back to the steering column black lead yet). Check the black lead for foreign voltage and a good ground when actuated first.
Your video shows that you had a signal on the white wire (brake light switch) while the four way flasher was on but you don't have brake lights at the rear with the flasher on. I could be wrong here. Maybe back in 1970 brakes didn't override the flashers. Hopefully someone will know that for sure.
Since you bought the car that way, we don't have a description of the moment of failure. We don't know if the previous owner was messing with the wiring before you got it. It might be good to know if you can get that information.
 
You Say there is two flashers on a 70 ? One for hazards and one for turn signals?
Yep, TWO separate flashers. Shorthorse has a good point.... try to tackle each job one at a time, but I'd still take a look under the horn cover to see what I could see based on the last owner saying the turn signals went out when the horn did.
 
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