'70 Satellite Front Fender Removal Question

[Aesthetikz]

Is it possible to unbolt and take off the front fenders without having to open the doors?

I ask because I'm entirely locked out of the interior due to exterior latch and linkage failure on a 2door. :angryfire:

I Was thinking I might be able to remove a fender since I have access underhood and unbolt the door hinges to reach around and release from the inside handles which do work.

Is this possible?

 

[D575]

You need one of these,




Or a lock smith.

 

[Aesthetikz]

I don't know that a locksmith is going to get any further than I can, And then it's gonna cost me for the call out.

Both doors are unlocked, They just don't open from the outside... And the sheet metal behind the door and quarter latches on the Drivers side are torn/broken and damaged. Thus why when the door did actually latch it was extremely un-expected.
I was just planning to get the panels off, And fix the linkages then the damn door latches behind me as I go off for a tool...

The JY people said they couldn't get it closed for anything and that the latch was busted. I had to stop them from slamming the crap out of it while I was there. I tried to wiggle and maneuver it to see if it would latch at all (With pass side open just in case)~It refused to latch due to the metal/latch damage (Good job JY people that likely created the future welding work...).
Had to drive home with it strapped and bungeed, Then just decides to latch all the sudden at home. Sigh.

Just wanted to know if there are any un-accesseble bolts towards the backside of the fender with the door closed.
I'll have to take off the pass fender anyway for body repair or replacement.

*Side note, This is my new project car, I've owned it for only few days. See my welcome wagon thread.

 

[D575]

Just read your other thread, Damn! $ 900.00 !!!! You stole that car. If you can get the fender off, you can get to the hinge bolts.
What a great find. I wish I could find a deal like that. Those Washington Wreckers are really behind the times. They could have parted that thing out for a lot more than 900.00 . Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

The problem with trying to remove a fender is the door hinges have bolts that come from the inside behind the kick panel. You need a slim Jim. Not to unlock it, but to hit the latch. When you push the button on the door handle with your thumb, it pushes a rod down that moves a lever on the latch to open the door. Use the slim jim to hit that lever on the latch.

- - - Updated - - -

You know what, forget i said all that. Its hopeless. You might as well just give the car to me since the doors are forever stuck closed:hello2:

 

[D575]

Hemi Rebel is right , It's hopeless. Since I live closer to you, I would be happy to drive up and take that slug off your hands. :evil6:

 

[ef8340]

if you can get a metal coat hanger in the wing window and unlock the wing window you could swing that open and open your door that way great score by the way

 

[Aesthetikz]

Haha!
I'll look into a slim jim... Where would I find one of these? Seems like they would be illegal to sell or something.

Looks like fender removal is a no go.

I do have 2 other ideas:
My Drivers wing window has a 1x1inch or so gap at the top point, The vent and rubber need to be re-seated, But again~Forced it shut right before the door latched. So the vent lever is reallll tight now. I used a flimsy wire hanger with a hook and rubber tape on the hook, And was able to grab the lever. Though I couldnt get the leverage at the angle it was going and it kept sliding off (I need upward leverage, Correct?) to move it. I'm going to get a sturdier rod bend to shape and try again.
Or I could get a really long rod with a hook at the end and try to reach accross to the pass inside handle.

Theres also a very small gap at the top of the window due to the door hanging a little and not completely shut due to the latch/support issues.
And you can pull the door out enough to see the backside of the door side latch, I pushed in on it with a long flat head, But didnt help at all~Would pounding this inward release or is there a lip on the actual latches? The metal already is broken/torn and bent inward here.

Other far fetched idea~
Get into the trunk and try and move the upper seat enough to reach through to the handle. I dont think this is possible though?

Last resorts:
Remove windshield, Could use a new one anyway.
Break a window~REALLY DONT LIKE THIS OPTION.

 

[moparmarks]

Just a thought. Look under the radiator and around K-frame for a Hide-A-Key. Ya never know. I've been in your boat a few times only to find a key later on.

 

[Aesthetikz]

I'll do that, But like I mentioned~Doors are already unlocked, At least from the inside they were...
Outside passenger push button makes rattly noises and drivers makes no noise when pushed. Theres also no real force behind them.

 

[moparmarks]

Oooooooooooooo ya I forgot you said that.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Haha!
I'll look into a slim jim... Where would I find one of these? Seems like they would be illegal to sell or something.

Looks like fender removal is a no go.

I do have 2 other ideas:
My Drivers wing window has a 1x1inch or so gap at the top point, The vent and rubber need to be re-seated, But again~Forced it shut right before the door latched. So the vent lever is reallll tight now. I used a flimsy wire hanger with a hook and rubber tape on the hook, And was able to grab the lever. Though I couldnt get the leverage at the angle it was going and it kept sliding off (I need upward leverage, Correct?) to move it. I'm going to get a sturdier rod bend to shape and try again.
Or I could get a really long rod with a hook at the end and try to reach accross to the pass inside handle.

Theres also a very small gap at the top of the window due to the door hanging a little and not completely shut due to the latch/support issues.
And you can pull the door out enough to see the backside of the door side latch, I pushed in on it with a long flat head, But didnt help at all~Would pounding this inward release or is there a lip on the actual latches? The metal already is broken/torn and bent inward here.

Other far fetched idea~
Get into the trunk and try and move the upper seat enough to reach through to the handle. I dont think this is possible though?

Last resorts:
Remove windshield, Could use a new one anyway.
Break a window~REALLY DONT LIKE THIS OPTION.

No pounding, no breaking. Any decent auto parts store should have a slim jim or some kind of lock out kit. Or order one online. Amazon or something. From the sounds of it, you have never used one, so you will have to get a feel for it. Basically poke around the latch area. You will be pushing down on it to open the door, not pulling up.

 

[RRDOUG]

try this

No pounding, no breaking. Any decent auto parts store should have a slim jim or some kind of lock out kit. Or order one online. Amazon or something. From the sounds of it, you have never used one, so you will have to get a feel for it. Basically poke around the latch area. You will be pushing down on it to open the door, not pulling up.

I seen a guy do this on a ford truck vent window.He used 2 allyn wrenches that were the long L shaped.He put them in vice grips and stuck one in to pull the button lock in and used the other to hook the latch and pull it up.Then he stuck his arm in and opened the door.You dont have the button so you only need one.

 

[Aesthetikz]

I have not, Never actually needed to up until now.
Wow... Just found one on a quick search from a very unxpected source:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...01495965815&AID=10368321&cj=true#.UNcNdqy5WJk

 

[Aesthetikz]

You guys talking about the door innards or the vent window lever?
PS: I just added a post about finding a lockout kit but it needs "Moderator Approval", I guess due to a link.
Apparently Home Depot of all places carries a whole slim jim/lockout kit for under $10. Haha.

 

[HT413]

If you're skinny enough, the back seat idea should work. I did it on my 69 belvedere and I barely fit and I'm pretty skinny.

 

[Aesthetikz]

So you actually can move or release the seat from the trunk (And without any damage to the seats)?

Believe it or not, My original green rear seats have no tears or damage (That I noticed). Fronts not so much... Heh.

BTW, Thanks so much for all the quick replies and ideas everybody, It's very appreciated.

 

[HT413]

Yeah, my 69 upper seat only catches on 2 hooks kinda up toward the package tray, so if you get yourself all the way into the back of the trunk you should be able to simply lift up and it should come up and away from the package tray. Biggest prob i see is how to get the upper seat out of your way so you can get in. Also, the cross braces between the trunk and rear seat will be a pain to squeeze through. the upper seat just sets in behind the lower seat with 2 metal prongs and should lift away without issue.

i was able to flip the seat upper face down onto the lower seat and climb over it, but I'm 6ft and 170 lbs so squeezing into tight spaces is no prob for me.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Bad situation, but I'll think outside the box. Here's everything I can think of
1. Slim Jim - go for door latch (not lock) mechanism
2. Vent Window (either side) with coat hanger OR better yet, stiff welding rod or other stronger/thicker rod
3. Try thicker rod on inner door handle? (I'm not sure about the angle you can get)
4. Try thicker rod on window handle? Maybe make a "loop" in the end of the rod & try to roll a window down (front or back)
5. Go through trunk/back seat - my 70 RR has two bolts at the bottom of the seat back, but if the seat was taken out before and someone was lazy maybe they didn't put them back in. Also, do you know a 10yr old kid in your neighborhood who wants to make $10 climbing through the back seat hole? (if you're too big) I actually climbed through the seat to get my dad's keys out of the trunk when I was a kid.
6. Last Resort - hammer, brick or whatever on the window that's easiest to replace

Good Luck!

 

[Aesthetikz]

Haha, Thanks guys.
I'll definitely be making a few trips for supplies and trying some of these methods, Window breakage is the absolute last resort of course.

I actually hit another snag that is stressing me out...
I know it will vary by state, But have you guys ever had to deal with a vehicle with no title or access to/or knowledge of who the original owner was (Besides plate numbers)?

I swear I was told when I was doing paperwork that I would just need to bring the PAPERWORK over to the nearest state patrol for a VIN check for a Title within 15 days before fees start racking up. Then today while I'm checking out the WA State patrol website it states the ENTIRE VEHICLE has to be brought over and inspected... Nearest office is 22miles away...
*Side note: I expected to get a title of some sort at the time of purchase, Only after I paid was I told I wouldn't. In the past I had no problems purchasing from abandoned vehicle auctions and getting one or a replacement without or ever visiting the state patrol.

It also says on the state patrol website you have to schedule and they are usually backed up about 4 weeks at any time??? Yet I have 15 days to bring it over... I'm really annoyed and confused.
I obviously also have no plates or registration either at this point. Just a Bill of Sale, Random Junkyard papers and the junkyard "Supposedly" Backing me until I get the Title.

I cant get into the car as you know, But it's also not ready to make a 44mile round trip either.
Tow trucks around here cost $85-100 hook up and $5 Mile, IMO.

Anyone had to do anything like this before? Supposedly they are only checking VIN tags on the car against their database and not the condition of the car, But I'm worried it may come out a Salvage or Builder being from the JY... It did come up entirely clean on a couple paid VIN checks I did online though.

I'll be calling the DOL/DMV and State Patrol to get more info today. I've actually got pictures of the plates on the car (with current tabs) that the yard pulled off when we picked it up, So Maybe I can find a loophole with the DMV or something.

UGH!!!