71.charger 383 with 727 tranny cooler
- Thread starter velrob
- Start date
If your cooling system is in good shape or your car is not exhibiting any cooling issues, I don't see why you would need an external transmission cooler.
velrob
Well-Known Member
The rad is brand new. I'm restoring the car. Hopefully there are no issues. Is there any way to see if the tranny fluid is getting to hot? Do tbey have any inline temp gauges for that? Some gauge I can mount under the dash perhaps.
I'm sure you can find the gauge you are looking for. I don't see the need unless you have something that you are worried about with the transmission.
It's not my intention to keep you from doing what you want with your car. I drove these cars when they were new and started repairing/restoring them in 1990. To this day I have never seen a transmission temperature gauge on a street driven or lightly raced Mopar. Exotic import race prepared cars yes. If you're more comfortable adding an external transmission cooler, go for it.
velrob
Well-Known Member
ok sounds good
i dont want to waste money where its not needed
id rather put that money into other things.
plus i went with a 26" rad also instead of 22" so i guess that will add extra cooling as well
i dont want to waste money where its not needed
id rather put that money into other things.
plus i went with a 26" rad also instead of 22" so i guess that will add extra cooling as well
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
depends on what kind o driving you do
there's a reason the factory put coolers on some models
pc, trailer tow taxi etc
making the converter work gives the heat
like stop and go creeping up a hill
use atf 4+
there's a reason the factory put coolers on some models
pc, trailer tow taxi etc
making the converter work gives the heat
like stop and go creeping up a hill
use atf 4+
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
you are good to go
just use good fluid as the temps in the clutches during shifts are more important in your case than the converter temp
They do not even make the fluid your trans came with any more
atf+4 or good synthetic
you do not need the anti chatter stuff as no converter clutch but it will not hurt
btw good move on the radiator
do not run a colder than stock thermostat up your way, even so a 195 0r 205 will make the heater work better
run a stove on the air cleaner- themostatic controlled if you do not have one get one
most wear will be on cold startups with too much raw gas
run 0w=xx oil your choice on the xx depending on how tight your motor is built
much less start up wear with 0w than 5w and 10w
GM has replaced all 5w specs with 0w= which makes no difference once warmed up
cheers
just use good fluid as the temps in the clutches during shifts are more important in your case than the converter temp
They do not even make the fluid your trans came with any more
atf+4 or good synthetic
you do not need the anti chatter stuff as no converter clutch but it will not hurt
btw good move on the radiator
do not run a colder than stock thermostat up your way, even so a 195 0r 205 will make the heater work better
run a stove on the air cleaner- themostatic controlled if you do not have one get one
most wear will be on cold startups with too much raw gas
run 0w=xx oil your choice on the xx depending on how tight your motor is built
much less start up wear with 0w than 5w and 10w
GM has replaced all 5w specs with 0w= which makes no difference once warmed up
cheers
velrob
Well-Known Member
Hmm zero weight oil really? I have 20w50 in it ready for break in.
Sorry what is a stove for the air cleaner lol
Never heard of that before
Sorry what is a stove for the air cleaner lol
Never heard of that before
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
20 50 is fine for break in if it is a high zinc oil made for break in
otherwise the zn could be all over the place
a stove is a tin box on the exhaust manifold with a tube to the ac that moves hot air into the carb except when under load when a flapper moves to the cold air position
multiweight oil has different base stocks
older formulations required additives to keep the spec
newer ones have such good base stocks that they require no or little additives
the newer stocks do not "shear down" and lose viscosity as they have no additives to "shear down"
so if you want a 40 weight hot oil you can start with a 40 weight oil
or a 20 weight cold oil that is still a 40 weight when hot
or one that is 0 cold but is a 40 weight when hot
it just does not thin with heat
does that make sense
take a 0w 40 and cool it off and pour some
heat it to 100 degrees- pours the same
the 0w flows much better cold - start up or winter weather still a 40 when hot and it stays that way
otherwise the zn could be all over the place
a stove is a tin box on the exhaust manifold with a tube to the ac that moves hot air into the carb except when under load when a flapper moves to the cold air position
multiweight oil has different base stocks
older formulations required additives to keep the spec
newer ones have such good base stocks that they require no or little additives
the newer stocks do not "shear down" and lose viscosity as they have no additives to "shear down"
so if you want a 40 weight hot oil you can start with a 40 weight oil
or a 20 weight cold oil that is still a 40 weight when hot
or one that is 0 cold but is a 40 weight when hot
it just does not thin with heat
does that make sense
take a 0w 40 and cool it off and pour some
heat it to 100 degrees- pours the same
the 0w flows much better cold - start up or winter weather still a 40 when hot and it stays that way
velrob
Well-Known Member
I see. My 20w50 has the zinc additive in it. After that I'll decide what oil stick with. If 0w40 doesn't thin down with heat then I guess it would flow better too in my motor.
My car doesn't have AC and won't ever be winter driven. Where can I find this tin box or is it something I need to make? Sounds like a good idea.
My car doesn't have AC and won't ever be winter driven. Where can I find this tin box or is it something I need to make? Sounds like a good idea.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
comes stock on mopars since???
you also need the thermostatic and vacuum controled air cleaning housing
now not as big a deal if no winter driving but still helps fuel
btw how much zn in parts per million like 900, 1,200
zn plugs cats so new car oils have less- one reason for HR cams
you also need the thermostatic and vacuum controled air cleaning housing
now not as big a deal if no winter driving but still helps fuel
btw how much zn in parts per million like 900, 1,200
zn plugs cats so new car oils have less- one reason for HR cams
velrob
Well-Known Member
Hmm my car be winter driven haha.
If I remember my oil is 1200. I'll need to check at my office tomorrow where the car is. The oil was def zinc enchriched. Took me a bit of time to find it locally. I also when with a deeper oil pan.
I think this is the oil here
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Penn...end-Performance-Engine-Oil-12-Qt-,136581.html
Penngrade oil 20w50
Looks like it's 1500ppm
I also bought the zinc additive for the next oil change.
If I remember my oil is 1200. I'll need to check at my office tomorrow where the car is. The oil was def zinc enchriched. Took me a bit of time to find it locally. I also when with a deeper oil pan.
I think this is the oil here
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Penn...end-Performance-Engine-Oil-12-Qt-,136581.html
Penngrade oil 20w50
Looks like it's 1500ppm
I also bought the zinc additive for the next oil change.
Last edited:
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
here is a quote from an article on dist gears
https://www.onedirt.com/tech/engine...fusion-out-of-distributor-gear-compatibility/
Distributor gears also drive the oil pump on most engines, and the extra load from a high volume pump and high viscosity oil can place undue stress on the drive gear, especially during engine warmup when the oil is cold.
The worst case scenario is 20w50 oil, a high pressure/high volume oil pump, and tight bearing clearances.
make sure that 20-50 is warm
cheers
https://www.onedirt.com/tech/engine...fusion-out-of-distributor-gear-compatibility/
Distributor gears also drive the oil pump on most engines, and the extra load from a high volume pump and high viscosity oil can place undue stress on the drive gear, especially during engine warmup when the oil is cold.
The worst case scenario is 20w50 oil, a high pressure/high volume oil pump, and tight bearing clearances.
make sure that 20-50 is warm
cheers
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
please do not use additives in SN oil
They can actually decrease EP
get an oil with the amount of zn you need built in by the blender
The new corvette comes with a 0w-40 with a completely different additive package
It replaces the -what was it- 15-60 that was required last year for "track days"
IDK about FT use- looking MOBIL-1 ESP and DEXOS 2 (not DEXOS1-rev2)
They can actually decrease EP
get an oil with the amount of zn you need built in by the blender
The new corvette comes with a 0w-40 with a completely different additive package
It replaces the -what was it- 15-60 that was required last year for "track days"
IDK about FT use- looking MOBIL-1 ESP and DEXOS 2 (not DEXOS1-rev2)
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
SN is the -one of the-latest oil standards
1000 should be plenty after break in unless you are running a lot of spring pressure, rpm etc
on the rogue you are in Toronto not Mexico
0W 20 the vw 508 is the latest spec for 0w-20 now try and find it
Mobil 1 ESP is one that meets the spec
expensive but it protects a VERY expensive cat
if you do mostly long fast drives- not mostly short trips you could use 0W 30
but i would think not on a new vehicle
it would cost 2-3% mileage
does it have roller tappets or shoes?
1000 should be plenty after break in unless you are running a lot of spring pressure, rpm etc
on the rogue you are in Toronto not Mexico
0W 20 the vw 508 is the latest spec for 0w-20 now try and find it
Mobil 1 ESP is one that meets the spec
expensive but it protects a VERY expensive cat
if you do mostly long fast drives- not mostly short trips you could use 0W 30
but i would think not on a new vehicle
it would cost 2-3% mileage
does it have roller tappets or shoes?
velrob
Well-Known Member
It has rollers. Im not running alot of spring pressure or rpm.
its pretty stock just a cruiser
since i wont be driving the car that much then the oil changes would last fairly long, so for sure ill be using good oil.
i will be driving far sometimes but not often.
so 0w-40 it is then after break in.
its pretty stock just a cruiser
since i wont be driving the car that much then the oil changes would last fairly long, so for sure ill be using good oil.
i will be driving far sometimes but not often.
so 0w-40 it is then after break in.
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