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71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

After lots of thinking and messing around I was finally able to get my HVAC control panel made and installed. It was not that it was that hard but I just had to get my head around it and that took me longer than usual (also procrastinated a lot). The plastic I used is Kydex (aka thermo moldable plastic)
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70chall440 said:
After lots of thinking and messing around I was finally able to get my HVAC control panel made and installed. It was not that it was that hard but I just had to get my head around it and that took me longer than usual (also procrastinated a lot). The plastic I used is Kydex (aka thermo moldable plastic) View attachment 1572148View attachment 1572149View attachment 1572150View attachment 1572151View attachment 1572152View attachment 1572153
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Looks like a good fit. I'd be happy with it.
 
Yes it does fit well and I am happy with it. I wanted a lever control panel but that just wasn't going to happen. Another member here suggested this solution so here we are.
 
70chall440 said:
Yes it does fit well and I am happy with it. I wanted a lever control panel but that just wasn't going to happen. Another member here suggested this solution so here we are.
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I suggested it, so that means you can make me one? I have more ideas than time these days.
 
Also installed the dash again so that I could see if my HVAC duct adapter is going to work (spoiler...it won't). This then made me have to reengineer that but I think I got it sorted out.

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70chall440 said:
Also installed the dash again so that I could see if my HVAC duct adapter is going to work (spoiler...it won't). This then made me have to reengineer that but I think I got it sorted out.

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This how i done mine if its any help 1/2 " piece of nylon 2 5/8 hole saw nice tight fit for the hose. Vintage air Gen 5

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Today I continued work on my LED taillights and finally got one side's worth of LED panels built. Upon testing this panel (which would be the outside right light) it all worked well initially but then a few bulbs began to flicker, get dim and eventually go out. This was repeated until all of the LEDs on that one panel (there are 4 panels in all per light) had died. I suspect that I somehow shorted them out because it is just this one panel (aka row). So this means if I want to continue I have to disassemble this panel and replace all of the LEDs (I think) which are about 30 or so. Now my other option is to use the Dorman replacement sockets and just use the stock 1157 and 1156 (I think that is what they were or maybe both are 1157). Of course I could use LED versions of these as well I guess.
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70chall440 said:
Today I continued work on my LED taillights and finally got one side's worth of LED panels built. Upon testing this panel (which would be the outside right light) it all worked well initially but then a few bulbs began to flicker, get dim and eventually go out. This was repeated until all of the LEDs on that one panel (there are 4 panels in all per light) had died. I suspect that I somehow shorted them out because it is just this one panel (aka row). So this means if I want to continue I have to disassemble this panel and replace all of the LEDs (I think) which are about 30 or so. Now my other option is to use the Dorman replacement sockets and just use the stock 1157 and 1156 (I think that is what they were or maybe both are 1157). Of course I could use LED versions of these as well I guess. View attachment 1575537
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That sucks. That's a lot of work to have to redo. Looks good in the picture though.
 
supergluehero said:
That sucks. That's a lot of work to have to redo. Looks good in the picture though.
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I figured out what my issue was and got it fixed, the problem was that for every 4 bulbs I need a 1 ohm resistor however for 3 bulbs I need a 150 ohm resistor but I had forgotten that and used the 1 ohm which is why that panel burned up. I redid it and it seems to be working out.

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I searched the 1st pic looking for clues on using resistors. Next post you had it nailed. LEDs MUST be current-limited or... well you now know. Good job on the construction, and figuring out the issue.
 
mpgmike said:
I searched the 1st pic looking for clues on using resistors. Next post you had it nailed. LEDs MUST be current-limited or... well you now know. Good job on the construction, and figuring out the issue.
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This is definitely a learning experience but I am enjoying it. I have the 3 panels for one side done and just started on the other.
 
Making some headway on the taillights. I am waiting on some information from the company that makes the sequencer as to how to connect the dimming module. The dimming module (according to the company the makes/sells them) protects the LEDs from fluctuations in the voltage as they are setup (the resistor) to work at 12V whereas the alternator can and will produce 14V+ from time to time. The sequencer is to allow me to program the taillight, specifically the turn signals.

I didn't really care about the sequential aspect (thing Mustang, Cougar or T-bird) but it supposedly allows me to use all the same color LEDs and get them to function as normal (park, brake and turn). I have found another module that supposedly does the same thing but does not provide the sequence part. We will see how it all works out, this is experience based learning at the moment...

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Also today in an attempt to procrastinate some more on the taillight project I decided to get rid of the passenger side red fender (too General Mayhem for me). I have to admit I am REALLY liking this no shiny paint deal...

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I have not gotten much done lately, not because I have not worked on it but because what I have been working on hasn't gone well...

I have been trying to get the LED taillights sorted out and I thought I was making progress only to find out that I wasn't. Perhaps better said I discovered that how I have built these panels is not a long term solution.

The issue here is that it is hard to find reliable information as to how to build these lights. There is a lot online about how to build modern taillights that have at least 2 colors. Of course with a 70's muscle car everything is all one color and evidentially this is not something the modern guys (kids) really deal with or want to deal with.

The first component was to build the panels, this is pretty straight forward but you have to use a resistor because the LED bulbs take 3v @ 20ma (white) and the information I saw was that you calculated the resistor based on 12V but because an alternator produces around 14.7 you need to use something to protect the LEDs.

What was suggested was using a "dimming panel" which will protect the LEDs however it will not support only 1 color (supposedly). For this it was suggested that I use a sequential module that supports just one color (the model I am using). The problem here is that the dimming module has only 1 output for park and brake lights but the sequential module requires separate park and brake inputs. My thought is that I would just put 2 wires coming off the dimming module and connect 1 to the park input and 1 to the brake input.

All this said, I just discovered (figured out) that I needed to calculate my resistor based on alternator output (14.7) and in doing so I can probably dispense with the dimming module because the sequential module will do the same thing (I thing).

Also, I am going to make acrylic panels drilled for 5mm LED bulbs which will be easier to build and if necessary repair. Additionally if this worked out I will have the template for anyone else who wants to go down this road.
 
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