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727 hard to downshift when hot

Boosted66

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Hi guys,

After supercharging the 383 in my 66 Satellite this past winter, it seized first gear to the shaft on the 23 spline 833 that was originally in it the second time out. After talking with some of the manual trans places, and adding up the cost for a switch to an 18 spline with sfi bellhousing and capable clutch, I decided to make the switch to a full manual valvebody 727. I'm sure I'll catch plenty of crap for that one, but it really made sense since my wife drives the car half the time as well and she's had some leg injuries over the years which made the clutch tough sometimes.

I recently bought a full manual valvebody forward pattern 727 from Hughes Performance, low band apply, with their 24-25hd converter as well. I added a Winters Sidewinder shifter in the factory console opening, and ran the cooler lines and everything else needed.

Everything's installed, I've got the shifter adjusted so every gear position lines up nice with each linkage position on the trans, and it's full of fluid when hot in neutral. No kickdown linkage since it's full manual. The first couple drives, I notice it shifts great for the first 3-4 miles, then gets tough to physically downshift the shifter after that. Upshifting is fine.

When hot, I've disconnected the shifter cable from the linkage, and the shifter and cable are great and move easily. If I go to move the linkage on the trans by hand, it upshifts great, but is very difficult to downshift, all the way from park to first in every position, both when running and when shut off. Once cooled, it's great again for another 3-4 miles or once hot. The linkage itself isn't any issue, since it shifts great when cool and is set up exactly like the Winters instructions. There seems to be something with the manual valve or something internally once things get warmed up, but only downshifting. The transmission itself actually makes the shifts great everytime, but the actual shifter movement just gets really tough in the one direction. I'll call Hughes first thing Tuesday, just curious what you guys think?
 
I'd start with an inspection of the "rooster comb" in the valve body. There is a spring loaded detent ball that is part of that which gives the feedback that you feel as you select a gear. Fortunately, the valve body is easy to remove.

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I'd start with an inspection of the "rooster comb" in the valve body. There is a spring loaded detent ball that is part of that which gives the feedback that you feel as you select a gear. Fortunately, the valve body is easy to remove.

View attachment 954837

Thanks! I think it's worth a shot to drop the pan and have a look, I would sure think it has to be something with the linkage internally or related to the valvebody somehow. I'm glad the pan on it has a drain plug! I'd definitely rather spend some time removing the valvebody than having to pull the trans again having just put it all together. There's a tech at Hughes that was great when I asked about low band apply and making sure what options it had so I'll chat with him tomorrow and follow up with what they recommend also since it should be under warranty.

Mike
 
The 727 book by Carl Munroe is excellent, as is the 904/727 book by Tom Hand, who is on here occasionally. These transmissions are relatively easy to rebuild, and fun as well.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...HMeIAdC_1tljrljGL87wHFFUy8cKBorBoCw58QAvD_BwE

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chrysler...S636vVtXcKSl73RF42nmHkweVImlkxFxoCkfgQAvD_BwE


Thanks!

I'll take a look and see if I can get one of those on order so I have something to reference when I get there, appreciated!

Mike
 
Just wanted to follow up on this a bit. I did call Hughes Performance to get their take since I had just bought the trans and converter from them, and they were pretty confident the problem lies between the rooster comb and the detent ball as Demonic had suggested. Apparently the bore in the valve body can get worn around the detent ball, but could be sleeved or there are repair kits as well if needed, and offered to repair or exchange the valve body if I went ahead and pulled it out. They just rebuild and modify core transmissions for these and I'm sure every now and then something just gets missed, overall I'm very happy with how the transmission shifts and the converter is great also.

I've since taken another couple drives and added another quart and a half of transmission fluid since it was in the middle of the stick, and oddly enough it seems like that has helped with this issue, maybe a little extra lubrication with the fluid a bit higher to the valve body? Seems to be better now and I'll just keep an eye on it and go from there for the time being, Thanks!

Mike
 
...and added another quart and a half of transmission fluid since it was in the middle of the stick

I hope you mean it was in the middle of the ADD A PINT mark, and NOT the actual middle of the stick.
 
Correct, between add and full, which takes much more with a 3-4 quart extra deep pan.
 
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