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727 paper/rubber kit identification

levicah

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Location
Shelton, WA
Can anybody identify or make a educated guess on the smaller seals in this kit? Also came with 8 small steel washers. I'm in over my head as it is...I really dont want to start disemboweling this trans hoping I'll find out where some of these seals go. Which seals typically come in a kit like this? This trans ran perfectly, but dumped a qt after sitting overnight. It had been stored for a couple of years before I got it. Now that the trans is pulled, the pan needs several helicoils, the fill tube o-ring and the brass adaptors for the cooling lines resealed and tightened. These were the obvious things. Inside of bell housing was clean and dry. Based on this description, would you do additional work to be safe?
DSC00400.JPG
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 
change the o rings on the shift and throttle level
front and tailshaft seals
check the nose on the converter- if it's scored change the bushing
you might just tap those case pan bolts oversize
I've never helicoiled them
no teflon tape on the cooler fittings
 
change the o rings on the shift and throttle level
front and tailshaft seals
check the nose on the converter- if it's scored change the bushing
you might just tap those case pan bolts oversize
I've never helicoiled them
no teflon tape on the cooler fittings

Wow, thanks for the heads up on the cooler ftg's...does the trans fluid break down teflon? What can I use?
 
those metal washers are to seal the pump bolts
 
From top left:
rear clutch inner piston seal
reverse servo piston seal
extension hsg. snap ring access gskt.
outer orange o-ring: speedo adptr.
inner " " : late model front servo seal
shift shaft case seal
8 coated aluminum gaskets: pump to case bolt gskts.
first of 4 in with governor screen:
looks like dip stick tube or reverse band pivot shaft o-ring
perhaps input shaft convertor lock up o-ring
speedo adptr. inner seal
throttle pressure actuator shaft seal

Mike
 
You can use Teflon paste on the cooler line fittings that screw into the trans. Just a dab is fine. Make sure you cover the rear band anchor pin with a smear of RTV. You can use a putty knife. For all leak possibilitys to be addressed the tail shaft and front pump must be removed. The list of possible leak paths:
front pump seal, gasket, O-ring, pump bolts
front band anchor pin allen plug
fill tube O-ring
valve body shift selector seal to case
throttle shaft seal seal (internal shaft seal on the shift selector)
Cooler line fittings
pressure tap fittings
rear band pin
tail shaft gasket and attaching bolts that are thru bolts
tail shaft snap ring access cover
tail shaft out put seal
Doug
 
If it leaked when sitting for a while and the inside of the bell housing was dry then it’s most likely the shift lever seals or the dipstick tube seal. There is a tool available to remove and install the shift lever seal without removing the valve body. I usually remove the VB as it’s not to difficult. The front seal isn’t too hard with the pump installed but if the bushings is worn the pump has to come apart. Now is a good time since it’s out.
 
Wow what great tips
It's DEX VI that had trouble with teflon seals- seals have been changed but those with up to certain serial numbers either get help or the royal run around
Use (any with the logo) ATF+4 with with out a lock up
it's very good stuff
stay away from anything that says "use for" compatible with, etc
 
From top left:
rear clutch inner piston seal
reverse servo piston seal
extension hsg. snap ring access gskt.
outer orange o-ring: speedo adptr.
inner " " : late model front servo seal
shift shaft case seal
8 coated aluminum gaskets: pump to case bolt gskts.
first of 4 in with governor screen:
looks like dip stick tube or reverse band pivot shaft o-ring
perhaps input shaft convertor lock up o-ring
speedo adptr. inner seal
throttle pressure actuator shaft seal

Mike
Most excellent! thank you Mike!
 
Two things with teflon tape - keep it 1 thread back from the end, so it doesn't end up in the pump or valve body, and the second time you take it apart, you MUST get all the little bits out of the hole, or you end up with bits in the trans again.
#2 fuel oil and diesel dissolves teflon tape.
 
From top left:
rear clutch inner piston seal
reverse servo piston seal
extension hsg. snap ring access gskt.
outer orange o-ring: speedo adptr.
inner " " : late model front servo seal
shift shaft case seal
8 coated aluminum gaskets: pump to case bolt gskts.
first of 4 in with governor screen:
looks like dip stick tube or reverse band pivot shaft o-ring
perhaps input shaft convertor lock up o-ring
speedo adptr. inner seal
throttle pressure actuator shaft seal

Mike


This helped a lot, I never found a home for the small o -ring. NOW...why on earth would a gasket/seal kit not include the front seal? Any tricks for removing and installing this seal without special tools? Thanks again!
 
I use a smaller cold chisel on one edge to collapse the seal and loosen it in the bore. Any gasket and seal kit I have purchased usually includes the metal clad seals as well as O-rings.
Mike
 
I use a smaller cold chisel on one edge to collapse the seal and loosen it in the bore. Any gasket and seal kit I have purchased usually includes the metal clad seals as well as O-rings.
Mike

Thank you sir! A moment of honesty...I am afraid to tear the valve body apart just to replace the gov. strainer. The trans worked great, it just leaked. The valve body demands ultra clean handling...dont know if I should take the risk of contamination. Under these circumstances, would you do it? Is it worth it?
 
no
but frankly tf is not as precision machined as later transmissions
so a reasonable standard of care is required not clean room
However if you are going into the valve body do a transgo shift kit SK TFSC or reprogramming kit the tf2 one
easy but careful DIY install
adjust your bands while you have the pan off
 
Thank you sir! A moment of honesty...I am afraid to tear the valve body apart just to replace the gov. strainer. The trans worked great, it just leaked. The valve body demands ultra clean handling...dont know if I should take the risk of contamination. Under these circumstances, would you do it? Is it worth it?
No need to dissemble the valve body in this instance unless installing a shift kit. The only part you may want to dissemble s removing the E clip on the throttle pressure pivot. Remove it and clean any rust from the shaft and replace the seal.
Doug
 
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