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WTB 727 Slip Yoke

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Virg464

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Looking for a trans slip yoke for my 727, 1330 u-joints.
 
Why would you want a slip yoke for a non stock U joint? FWIW I just did a quick search & found a 1330 yoke for a 904 but not for a 727....

Are you sure your not needing a 7290? The 7290 is virtually the same size as a 1330 but has inside snap ring grooves..

To be more precise, the distance across the caps is the same, the cap diameter is slightly bigger, 1.125 vs 1.062....
 
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If he has a 66/67 BB it could be a 1330 u joint. It would easier to find a complete driveshaft with a 1330. Easier buy a 7290 or a 1350 yoke and buy a combination u-joint. Only difference between the 3 u-joints is the cup size.
 
They make adapter u joints and they work fine.

I have a dozen = I will mike them when I feel better.
 
In the '70's Mopar sold the 1330 U joint on their build the drive shaft package.
 
Why would you want a slip yoke for a non stock U joint? FWIW I just did a quick search & found a 1330 yoke for a 904 but not for a 727....

Are you sure your not needing a 7290? The 7290 is virtually the same size as a 1330 but has inside snap ring grooves..

To be more precise, the distance across the caps is the same, the cap diameter is slightly bigger, 1.125 vs 1.062....
I'm not a drive-line expert so I'm kindda shooting in the dark. The reason I asked about the yoke being sized for 1330 u-joints is because my car has a narrowed ford 9" rear axle, and the pinion yoke is a ford unit that uses the 1330 Big Cap u-joint. So, I thought the rest of the drive-line would have 1330 u-joints.
Sounds like I will have two different u-joints, 1330 BC at the diff and a 7290 for the trans? There by requiring a custom driveshaft, or changing the pinion yoke. Hope I'm on the right track?
 
There are 7290-1330 conversion U joints.. So thats pretty easy.... You really need to get accurate measurements to be sure your getting the right parts...
 
If he has a 66/67 BB it could be a 1330 u joint. It would easier to find a complete driveshaft with a 1330. Easier buy a 7290 or a 1350 yoke and buy a combination u-joint. Only difference between the 3 u-joints is the cup size.
It is a 66 Coronet, but it's a weekend fun at the track only car. There is no driveshaft, so I'm going to have to buy one.
 
1330 = 3 5/8" across the caps... Cap diameter is 1.066. Uses external style retaining clips..
7290 = 3 5/8" across the caps... Cap diameter is 1.126 Uses internal style retaining clips..
1350 = 3 5/8" across the caps... Cap diameter is 1.188 Uses external style retaining clips..

External style clip

Screen Shot 2022-08-01 at 8.54.08 PM.png


Internal style clip


Screen Shot 2022-08-01 at 8.54.35 PM.png
 
There are 7290-1330 conversion U joints.. So thats pretty easy.... You really need to get accurate measurements to be sure your getting the right parts...
Right, all I have right now is the pinion yoke and I know that's the ford 1330BC unit, cap dia is 1.125" and the width is 3.625". It sounds like there are more u-joint combos than I realized. If I can find a 7290-1330BC unit for the diff end I can go with a 7290 at the diff.
 
I had same issue Dana 60 1330 yoke. Had a driveshaft made 1350 at trans, on rear of driveshaft 1350 with a 1350/1330 combination u-joint to fit Dana 1330 yoke. Measure carefully, consult whoever makes your d-shaft how to measure!!
 
Thanks for the inputs. I did more research to confirm things, (which I should have done ahead of time) and it looks like the 7290 has 1.125" bearing caps all around (inside c-clip style). The 1330BC has one set of 1.125" caps for the pinion yoke, and both have the same width 3.625". So, unless I'm off base on this I can use the mopar slip yoke (7290 size) and have the drive shaft built for 7290's at both ends?
 
Maybe I'm just cheap but more often then not when I need a driveshaft I find a shaft from a C body which usually has the 7290 joints at both ends & it's longer than I need.. It's allot cheaper to cut & balance then to build new... Now if your making 700 HP I wouldn't consider that but for the typical street car it works great saves $$$ for more important things... Like gas.. In the past I would have said beer but gas costs more..
 
Maybe I'm just cheap but more often then not when I need a driveshaft I find a shaft from a C body which usually has the 7290 joints at both ends & it's longer than I need.. It's allot cheaper to cut & balance then to build new... Now if your making 700 HP I wouldn't consider that but for the typical street car it works great saves $$$ for more important things... Like gas.. In the past I would have said beer but gas costs more..
Great idea! I'm only making maybe 500HP (max), I will start looking at the local yards...
 
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