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727 TCI steels clutches and filter ? steels have surface rust....

Cranky

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I have a set of new but old steels with surface rust that you can feel and figuring they are junk or can they be cleaned up?? The clutches look fine. It's TCI stuff from probably 30+ years ago. The filter looks to be one of those fine double brass mesh screens. You can see through it and wondering if it's racing only or can it be used on the street. It looks to be re-usable??
 
i use that type of filter and clean it with brake clean good to go. the steels can be sanded with 1000 grit use trans fluid as the lube to sand then clean with a no lint rag. the clutches rub your finger drawn away on each side if any of the clutch materiel flakes off it is junk. always soak clutches and bands in trans fluid before use or to store wet in a zip lock bag. hope this makes sens.
 
one other thing if you want a near bulletproof trans use Kevlar bands and clutches. and an A&A sprag.
 
I have a set of new but old steels with surface rust that you can feel and figuring they are junk or can they be cleaned up?? The clutches look fine. It's TCI stuff from probably 30+ years ago. The filter looks to be one of those fine double brass mesh screens. You can see through it and wondering if it's racing only or can it be used on the street. It looks to be re-usable??

Those brass screen filters were meant to be reusable, for racers. Filter may not be quite as fine as the Dacron ones, but supposed to be higher flow. I'd clean the steels with scotch brite or abrasive cloth. I used "boulder paper" many times to freshen steels, including rebuilding a 727 in the pits to make the race the following morning (won 5 rounds next day).
EDIT: Trans worked just fine, driver looses.
 
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Those brass screen filters were meant to be reusable, for racers. Filter may not be quite as fine as the Dacron ones, but supposed to be higher flow. I'd clean the steels with scotch brite or abrasive cloth. I used "boulder paper" many times to freshen steels, including rebuilding a 727 in the pits to make the race the following morning (won 5 rounds next day).
Oh man, when a buddy and I were running a 4 speed Super Street car in the early 80's, the trans messed up and he had it all apart on the tailgate of the pickup real quick and I'm thinking 'yeah right' but he had it back together and finished running the race that same day! Got beat in the finals though. Great effort! Once I broke a motor mount on a 14 second car and was ready to go home with it but another buddy handed me a roll of bailing wire. Yup, fixed it with about 25 wraps lol! 10 wasn't enough....
 
those brass filters- not only for racing
tf will work even passing that sized stuff
but they are best for older trans with rear pump where you need two holes
Transgo has them
I run a spin on filter in the cooler line
 
Clean the steels with metal prep or similar solution. Fibers are usually good if they haven't been wet. What color are the fibers? Never seen Kevlar Fibers. they do make Kevlar bands Never use a Kevlar band on an aluminum drum. I personally don't use the Kevlar stuff.
Doug
 
Clean the steels with metal prep or similar solution. Fibers are usually good if they haven't been wet. What color are the fibers? Never seen Kevlar Fibers. they do make Kevlar bands Never use a Kevlar band on an aluminum drum. I personally don't use the Kevlar stuff.
Doug
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IMG_20200718_103202614.jpg
 
Stock looking friction, what about the steels? If you scrub the frictions with Scotch Brite a bit then soak the frictions in ATF for a day, they'll be fine. Metal prep on the steels would be good, then I'd Scotch Brite them. A little "surface texture" gets the steels & frictions together.
 
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