73 and up UCA bushings- marking position?

[YY1]

So, I'm about ready to pull the upper control arm off.

I want to put the bar back where it was, so the new bushings will put the arm back in the proper place.

Because of the curve of the bar, I can't get a paint pen or even a sharpie in there, to get a good mark, so I can line it back up.

I put in a piece of cardboard, and marked that, but I'd really like a more foolproof mark.

Any suggestions?

 

[bearman]

use a punch mark on each piece

 

[YY1]

Thanks, but if I can't get the point of a sharpie marker in there, how am I going to get a punch and a hammer swing?

...and where would I put the mark?


Guess I'll just do the best I can.

Interestingly, with all the visible camber mis-adjustment, there's absolutely zero wear pattern issues after 6,000 miles.

 

[PST]

I would do as you had mentioned to get it close, but it doesn't really matter because it will need an alignment when your done regardless. You shouldn't base it on the position that it is at as the last alignment may have been done with the current bushing already being worn and new bushing will position the arms in a completely different spot. Plus now a days the alignment specs are different from bias verse radial tires anyway.

Thanks
James

 

[PST]

Another option is to measure from the center of the shock pin to the center of each bolt that holds the shaft. This would put you pretty much back in the ball park when reinstalling.

 

[YY1]

This car had 54,000 original miles when I bought it.

It's possible it's never had any front end work done.

Judging from the visible camber deflection from vertical, I think putting the bar back where it is should cause the new bushings to put the camber (and caster) back to where they should be.

I just bought a paint brush set for my model car and train hobby, so I'm going to get a 1/8 inch chisel point out of that to mark with.

I'll also measure from the shock tower for a third degree of insurance.

Brakes and alignment were my specialty back in HS (and Plymouth Troubleshooting), and way back then I was able to put a cam adjusted car inside factory spec without using a machine

This is my first time working on a slider adjusted car, though.

 

[YY1]

Dug this thread up looking a for a pic of my tie rod end orientation to help another member.

Just a quick update-

I must have put the bar in the right place as there has been zero uneven tire wear in the six years since the OP, and the car handles great since doing this and replacing and adjusting the tie rod ends.