roadrunnerman
Well-Known Member
Is that one on the right even a magnum manifold? It looks different to me.
73 roadrunner 318 to 440 swap project9
- Thread starter adk-roadrunner
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adk-roadrunner
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Not sure he said they came off a 76 new yorker
mattsinger
Well-Known Member
I would vote for headers. If you get a quality set and good gaskets you shouldnt have a leak. I know some say they always leak.....I have not had that experience in the last 30 years of using them. They are louder underhood than manifolds will be.
Kernel Sanders
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If those Mani's are 3830800 and 3830820, they are a matching set from a 76 CBody car. They were considered HP. However, I'm not sure if they will fit a BBody.
I have a set I pulled off a 76 newport that was at my local U-pull-it yard. I picked em up cheap in the hopes to put em in my 74 Charger when I get tired of pulling the headers for leaks or starter issues. lol
If you do get them and try them, I'd be very interested to know if they will work!
I have a set I pulled off a 76 newport that was at my local U-pull-it yard. I picked em up cheap in the hopes to put em in my 74 Charger when I get tired of pulling the headers for leaks or starter issues. lol
If you do get them and try them, I'd be very interested to know if they will work!
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That drivers side manifold was used on both LP and HP. The pass side is a LP manifold. Both will fit your car. The pass HP manifold is the harder one to find.
Also most any machine shop should know what to drill the pilot hole at. Have a machine shop do it. Not something your just throw up on to the drillpress.
Also most any machine shop should know what to drill the pilot hole at. Have a machine shop do it. Not something your just throw up on to the drillpress.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
Oh definitely don't plan on drilling the crank myself it will be going to the machine shop checked out and cleaned up at the very least. Prolly won't waste 80 on the mani's and hope they'll work I have the whole winter maybe ill just wait and see if any hp' s come up.
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I might try headers if anyone has a suggestions of ones that will fit good on a 73 roadrunner with a 440.
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I might try headers if anyone has a suggestions of ones that will fit good on a 73 roadrunner with a 440.
mattsinger
Well-Known Member
Not sure how much of a difference from 72 to 73 on exhaust fit, but I just put a set of Hooker Super Comps on my sons 72 Charger with a 383 and there were no issues anywhere. Fit Great!
73frostmistsatellite
Well-Known Member
If nothing else Hedman has some shorty style headers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-78070/overview/make/dodge
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
I've been kinda looking at the schumacher headers lately they look really nice and may fit well with my build but damn they are so pricey.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
So here we go got everything off to the machine shop to get the work started. Hopefully I here back soon with good news that everything checks out.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
just picked up some hp manifolds for $250.00 I will be bringing them to the machine shop to be planed and bead blasted then I will paint them with some high temp paint they will work great I think for my project and was one of the better prices I found. View attachment 92917View attachment 92918
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
I'll try and update this as often as I can guys right now you might just see random pics of parts i've purchased for the swap in question. I'd like to do more but then again nothing ever seems to move fast enough for me. Im still waiting to hear from the machine shop to know what size pistons I need to order so he can match it all up. I will be doing some sandblasting and painting of parts soon like the 8 3/4 rearend and some other undercarriage stuff then will be installing that all in the car. I am also thinking about giving a auto tranny rebuild a try and will certainly document it if I do for the swap as it is a large component of the swap.
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
Hey ADK, be very careful selecting the machine shop to drill out your crank. There just isn't a lot of information out there even for professional machinists to go from. Mine got drilled too big and not deep enough, so I had to use some non-Mopar truck crank bushing & then the transmission still wouldn't bolt up (hole not deep enough...the shop said they were afraid to hit an oil passage). My "plan B" (like many others) was to cut about 1" off the front of my 4-speed transmission input shaft & now I use the small block mopar roller bearing that goes on the crank/flywheel flange.
I have "heard" that Mopar cranks can be drilled 3 ways. 1. no hole at all 2. hole drilled, but not "finished/honed" to proper size or 3. 4-speed hole ready to go. Since you have a '78 motor home engine (never had a 4-speed / cast crank) I suggest you research some of how (or even if) you drill the crank. Does the crank have a hole in the back? If you have a hole you can stick your thumb down into then I suggest you just use a small block roller bearing like I did and you might not have to drill the crank at all. But, if you're going to drill the crank, do it now, not later like I did (had to pull motor and basically rebuild it twice).
As for your heads/block... I see in the photo that you have extra cooling passages in the block & heads, so you need a special head gasket. If it were me, I'd keep those heads/block/special head gasket which is supposed to provide extra cooling which ain't a bad thing, especially if you bore the block.
GREAT PROJECT! GOOD LUCK!
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
im actually thinking about just buying a used forged crank that is already tapped stock and using that after its cleaned up and polished.
adk-roadrunner
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Well I got the hp manifolds finally that I paid $250.00 for I am going to sand blast them and paint them with por 15 manifold paint as I've read good things about it and its not too exspensive. 
. I also got an update from the machine shop he called 2 days ago and said the 452 heads I brought him will require seat and guide work as they were trashed as he said they looked fine to me but what do I know he said it would be 360.00 for the work on both without springs or valves. I will have to decide what I want to do with those. The block he said is all cleaned up and looks good but he still has to check the bores to see what will be needed. The crank he said needs to be turned 10 thousandths which will cost $120.00 and will be an additional 80.00 I think to have it tapped for a manual tranny so he thinks I should look for a forged crank that is drilled and tapped already and just have it turned if it needs it. So there is.starting to be some progress hopefully more soon to come.
. I also got an update from the machine shop he called 2 days ago and said the 452 heads I brought him will require seat and guide work as they were trashed as he said they looked fine to me but what do I know he said it would be 360.00 for the work on both without springs or valves. I will have to decide what I want to do with those. The block he said is all cleaned up and looks good but he still has to check the bores to see what will be needed. The crank he said needs to be turned 10 thousandths which will cost $120.00 and will be an additional 80.00 I think to have it tapped for a manual tranny so he thinks I should look for a forged crank that is drilled and tapped already and just have it turned if it needs it. So there is.starting to be some progress hopefully more soon to come.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
ok here is an update today is like Christmas got a few things in i needed I ended up finding a forged crank that was already refurbished and drilled for pilot bushing for $120.00 I'm not going 4 speed now but may want to in the future. then from summit i received my speed pro piston set the speed pro rings both 30 over as the block needed to be bored. I also received a new melling high volume oil pump, new windage tray, mopar performance electronic ignition kit, por 15 factory manifold gray paint for my hp manifolds and summit chassis shield satin finish paint for the new 8 3/4 rear end and any other parts i wanna spray. I will be doing some sandblasting and painting soon also will be dropping off internals to machine shop for checking and balancing. here are some pics 
Ralph Cali
Well-Known Member
Inner fender on passenger side
The 440 will bring you close to the inner fender. Big blocks and small block have different configurations. If you need a cutout pattern PM me and I will send to you.
this way you will better access to the plugs.
Nice work so far -keep it up
Best Ralph
The 440 will bring you close to the inner fender. Big blocks and small block have different configurations. If you need a cutout pattern PM me and I will send to you.
this way you will better access to the plugs.
Nice work so far -keep it up
Best Ralph
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
ok new batch of stuff came in from 440 source new valley pan and intake gaskets, intake bolts , new timing cover, billet timing pointer and the new steal damper for my new forged crank. there will be more to come my cam and valve train parts should be here next week then some of it will go to the machine shop for checking and balancing. hopefully soon after that we can assemble the engine and get it ready to drop in.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
Well it's been a while so I figured I need to post a little on the project first of all its had it's ups and down. First off the big down the forged crank I purchased ended up having cracks in the journals that were found after magnafluxing the guy I purchased from on ebay refunded purchase price but not shipping which was 75 dollars, and I also lost out 50 dollars for the cost of having the crank checked. My machinist ended up getting me another forged crank ready to go for 450 shipped which definitely added to the tally. So today I picked up my 452 heads which I had redone by machinist he cleaned them up had to redo valve seat,s cut guides and install upgraded valve seals, replace 2 bent valves and install my springs retainers keepers form comp cams. Oh ya and he had to order another set of keepers to use the 2 groove keepers from them as apparently I ended up with some strange heavy duty model that uses a special exhaust valve which uses 2 groove keepers rather than the traditional 4 groove's. All in all atleast progress is happening again here are some pics of the heads. View attachment 113587View attachment 113588View attachment 113589
My machinist also notified me thats all thats left for him is a hone on the freshly bored block and to balance the rotating assembly so we are getting close to the engine assembly. hopefully I will have some new updates soon.
My machinist also notified me thats all thats left for him is a hone on the freshly bored block and to balance the rotating assembly so we are getting close to the engine assembly. hopefully I will have some new updates soon.
adk-roadrunner
Well-Known Member
Wow it's been a long time since I last posted on this thread. its been pretty slow going but the project is finally starting to pick up steam again. the engine will be getting assembled soon and I've been slowly gathering things for the project the latest following my decision to go efi on the new 440. I ordered and just received my edelbrock e street efi system with fuel sump kit and the free edelbrock rpm manifold. Actually I am typing this update on the HP tablet the system comes with. I will be sure to take lots of pics and update this as often as possible.
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