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77' B300 440 ROYAL SPORTSMAN T.V. FOR 18' H.T.T.

SamSly

Active Member
Local time
6:36 AM
Joined
Aug 1, 2019
Messages
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Location
Las Vegas ,Nevada
Want to start by saying I am humbled to be in the presence of such bountiful mopar knowledge. I have creeped thru these forums for the last week reading and learning and appreciating how much more I have to learn. My wife and I and our 307# s of four dogs have been travelling from the east coast of Florida steady westward for the past five years,enjoying nature and riding the roads. We started out with a 1998 dodge 1500 quad cab with the 5.9l four wheel drive pulling our trailer in search of adventure and homestead. The first three years I learned more about side of the road mechanics than I care to remember but I'm glad for the lessons as they were. Thinking we would save on gas we picked up a 91' straight six ford f150. Good strong slow motor. Due to an over extended stay in the humboldt toiyobe national forest, and critters in the engine bay leaving their nest behind, we subsequently caught the engine bay on fire, frying the wiring harness, multiple hoses and injectors...good times. They don't call it death valley for nothing. So after paying a crazy tow bill to Ridgecrest california(where the very next day a 6.4 followed by a 7.1 earthquake occurred) we figured let's get something bigger badder and better. Stumbled across an ad for a 77 b300 sportsman. Needed tires and a battery for sure. It had been sitting for one to two years after its previous owner passed away. The grandson was selling it for mustang money. By all accounts of the few people I spoke today the garage in town and the local.autozone, the van was a trooper having driven to also a and back and numerous states all across the west and Midwest. Engine was rebuilt 50k ago and tranny has 30k on its rebuild. So we put brand new 16.5 175 somethings all around and a stought battery and figured what the hell. I did a tune up which really should.be done again. The first one was a learning process so I think I can do.beyter the second time around. Carbeurator still needs to be dialed in but runs strong as is if a little rich. The big problem is this. We drove from Ridgecrest to las vegas and this the ing screams. Granted we are pulling a 3750# travel trailer and the van is loaded as well but she hardly even noticed. We had noticed she liked to get hot in town but when we had her on the open road at 50-60 mph she ran cool and sweet. So we pull.into vegas and make a couple stops. After second stop we have t o jump ourselves off using the battery from the trailer hooked to jumpers. How could this be? We had just gotten that battery three days prior before leaving. So I'm hoping it was just a bad battery so after we get rolling again we swing by walmart to exchange or have them.charge it or whatever. Two hours later the machine tell them it's a bad battery and to replace...gets me nervous but I'll deal.with that in a day or two. When I put the new battery into the well and am tightening the terminal on the positive post, my box end wrench arcs on the lip of the quarter panel where the hood would rest on. Not a horrible spark but a good "crack" sound. I think.nothing of it really but finish tightening both connections. Turn the key, nothing. Pull the lights, nothing. No accessory, no on, not even a peep of anything. I go back into walmart get new terminals, no help. It's already late when we get there but niw security is saying sorry but walmart does not allow.overnight parking at this store or property. So another tow to where we are now at main street station casino rv park. I'm struggling to make sense of the mess of wires and aftermarket gauges and the multiple battery isolator and such. There is power to the bulkhead ,power to the point behind the brake booster but from that on nothing i.can find or know where to look. I tightened the grounds I found and am lost. The hazard lights work and the electric fan that was wired in in front of the radiator which has a switch mounted under the brake booster(oem or aftermarket Idk, van has the tow package) Are the only two things I can make work. I'm sure I should have posted those last few things in a different forum.,my apologies... So that's who and where I am mostly, names Zach but you can call me Sam. Pleasure to be here. Thanks for letting my diarrhea of the mouth flow.
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We must be very careful working on electrical connections on vans. Not much room around the battery. Tip of the Day: Slide a sock over the wrench and tape it on there to avoid arcing it on anything.

I think you melted the fusible link. Not sure where it is on a van, but start looking for it on a main power wire taking off from the battery cable. Good luck.

The old guys next door we swapping a battery on GM big van and melted a hole in the brake line, I saw it coming and the guy ignored my warnings and arced a hole in it. Well right then I knew what I was tasked to do for the next couple hours. When I got the line on and secured he thanked me profusely. I said “now we have to bleed the brakes that line is full of air!” He was tired and wanted to go in and sit down I’m sure.

Big waste of time. SO move carefully underhood on those vans.

Missed out on a ride to the Molly Hatchet concert in high school because a guy melted his trans cooler line with a wrench from the battery.
 
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:welcome: from the foothills of NE Tennessee!
Ugh, I hate electrical problems with a passion.
Pop usually had a conversion van or some such around back when he was still with us.
Guess who got to fix the damn things all the time?

Now, I wish like everything that I still had that "burden"....
Best of luck out there, Sam! My dream is to set out on my own trek one day just like you are...
 
ALWAYS HOOK UP NEGATIVE LAST AND YOU WILL NEVER ARC A SHORT AGAIN. with that said check at the starter relay for the fuse link use a test light and trace power back from the battery to the starter relay for power.
 
welcome

quite the adventure you're on

good luck
 
Great idea on the sock over the wrench and the always hook up negative last. I think it's 108' in the shade right now but as soon as it starts getting dark and cools off I'm gonna go find that fuseable link and start chasing current. I'll post the results shortly after.
 
Welcome to FBBO!

As a mechanic, I would think with multiple isolaters, there should be a breaker somewhere. Just have to hunt for it.
 
Welcome. Sounds like you like your adventures!!!
 
Okay, so thought pictures would explain better if needed. Found the visible link coming from the pos term tri the cluster f*^#! At the bulkhead connection mess.it was showing 12.5 before and after the link so I'm guessing that's okay. Second picture I'm holding a lead that is also coming from the pos term but where it slides into which open slot im not quite sure. The third picture shows which slot I believe it to be from which so far has had no effect whatsoever with key in any position. I also want to add that the power brake controller for the trailer,mounted on the dash in cab is also receiving power. Along with hazards and aux radiator fan. The last picture shows a multiple battery isolator, pretty self explanatory except for the fact Iwas not aware of having a second battery or house battery on board. Anyone know where the house batterywas kept on these sportsman if they indeed were? Also I know o need to trace the lines of power to see where I'm not getting it. If someone would and could point me to the correct order of testing that would be great. I mean I may be able to follow the wires but I'm not always sure of where they end up at or what it is called.
Thank y'allfor your time and help.

As I was about to post this update, a important looking security guard came over and very nicely gave me the good and bad news. Good news, we can stay until Tuesday the sixth. Bad news, we will not be getting to stay the originally planned additional two weeks which means I will be channeling the great electrical engineers of mopar's minds the next few days so we can ride out! When it rains it pours seems fitting . Lol

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do you have power at the firewall side bulkhead connector? thick red wire ? make sure the fusible link is good. it can be broken but not visible. do you have power at the starter relay? can you jump the starter with a screwdriver at the relay?
you need to make sure you have power into the cabin on the backside of the bulkhead. disconnect the bulkhead connectors and check for power. those corrode over time and there is actually a bypass diagram .if your new battery was going dead, the voltage regulator or the alternator were not doing their job. it should be putting out 13.8 to 14.2 volts when running at the battery. I really wish I could help more but I'm not there. I have arced stuff to but I've never burned anything up . make sure your positive cable isn't corroded. any bad positive connection will disrupt power inside. grounds are everything here. ECU, VR, starter relay are all grounded to the body and rely on metal to metal contact with the body. the fusible link supplies power to the inside , there is also a thick black wire that is hot and should be live . the starter relay acts as a junction.
I missed where you said you have power on both sides of the link. that is the main lead into the cabin. you need to check for power inside the cabin
 
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Want to say thank you to each and every one of you. There was no power going through the firewall. I took off each connector and cleaned all contacts. Voila! Fired right up and running. So thankful and cant wait to hit the road I a couple days. When I have some more time I am gonna post in a carbeurator forum an issue with leaking gas from around the bottom of the carb passenger side where it makes to block but until then. No wonder I was getting such poor mileage! Lol
 
great to hear. fix that gas leak asap! you can easily catch fire.
 
great to hear. fix that gas leak asap! you can easily catch fire.
From what I can tell it seems to be coming from around the base of the thermo quad on both the drivers side and passenger side. Bought a new fire extinguisher after truck caught incident and the one we had only went poof.
 
thermoquads are notorious for main body warpage and gasket leaks. I've had 2 catch on fire and almost burn my car down. I'll never use another one. most likely a rebuild may fix it, but sometimes it won't. they aren't that difficult to take apart , clean and put back together.
 
thermoquads are notorious for main body warpage and gasket leaks. I've had 2 catch on fire and almost burn my car down. I'll never use another one. most likely a rebuild may fix it, but sometimes it won't. they aren't that difficult to take apart , clean and put back together.
I'll be dropping the old lady at the airport tomorrow night and have two weeks to tinker with this ol van. I tried some extreme heat paste but just made a sloppy mess and for sure did not stop the leak. What alternative carbs are out there? Any gas mileage extending alternatives would be greatly welcomed.
 
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