78 magnum k frame bolts spinning

[jpryorx2]

hey guys 1st post here. my son and i are in the process of building a 78 magnum for his first car. so far nothing is going rite the body looked good hen i traded my sandrail for it then e found 1.5 inch thick bondo where someone smashed the drivers quarter. bought a parts car and swapped the quarter now were trying to get it on the rotisserie and can't get the k frame bolts out. yeas ago i had a 79 magnum and when trying to change the k frame bushings i snapped the bolts so this time i heated the head of the bolts first hoping the heat would transfer through the threads. 1 did break loose at first but then started spinning in the frame. does anyone have a trick to getting them out? or should i start cutting holes in the side of the frame to get to the end of the bolts?
thanks
jason

 

[WP29440SE]

I had that happen to me with a 77 charger se. the only way I could see were to cut open the rails enough to clean , relocate the welded nuts, and reweld them in place. I chose leave the bolts in prior to welding them so they stay in place.

 

[jpryorx2]

thats what i was afraid of. but i guess it's the things we do for our kids
thanks
jason

 

[MiradaMegaCab]

Typically I drill a 1/8” hole in the side of the frame rail in line with the K Frames bolts. I spray rust buster in there, soaking the threads of all four bolts.
Doing this for a week before attempting to remove the bolts will hopefully avoid the “spinning captured nut” disaster.

 

[jpryorx2]

so i'm an idiot i started on 1 of the rear bolts and cut a window in the side of the frame rail. then i realized the nut is between the frame and the piece thats spot welded to the frame. the good news i can get right to the threads to heat and lube them.guess i'll try again in a couple of days

 

[rumblefish360]

Some of the work I had to do and how I did it.
I drilled out the spot welds and pulled the metal back, cleaned it up, spot welded, pushed the flap back, weld it. Done.

 

[rumblefish360]

And more photos

 

[rumblefish360]

And more

 

[WP29440SE]

yeah , sorry man , I should have been a little more descriptive. great pics of the process up above. I actually cut across and welded the pieces back together and ground them flat.

 

[rumblefish360]

All finished up

 

[rumblefish360]

If your K frame ends are somewhat toast like mine were, the metal gauge can be bought and shaped easy.

 

[rumblefish360]

yeah , sorry man , I should have been a little more descriptive. great pics of the process up above. I actually cut across and welded the pieces back together and ground them flat.

Naaaaa, it was enough for me. I just happened to still have these photos from a good while back, so, I could afford a few minutes on what I did. It took a while to do all the work, but, the problem described by the OP is mainly what I showed and did. Then, as usual, I got carried away. Since I had started the engine swap and realizing all of what I could get done since I was there, it snowballed into that project. Total time was about 5 days from start to driving around.

The engine (FWIW) is a '00 - 5,9 w/80K dressed up with a RPM, Hooker Super Comps, MP valvecovcers, 600 AFB, '72 - 340 air cleaner, JY distributor fired by a Accel coil and MP chrome box. 2-1/2 exhaust with the longer case Dyno Max Super Turbos. 727/3.55 in a 9-1/4. Excellent cruiser, needs a cam! LOL!

 

[WP29440SE]

my k member ends were pretty much toasted as well, I had to do the same. all my pics are on my desktop. great , I mean EXCELLENT , job , I've always had a soft spot for the later B bodies

 

[rumblefish360]

Thanks. I really like the late Cordoba’s look, the Charger Daytona’s and the Magnum. Im not as fond of the earlier & other models.

I hope this helps the OP. Welcome aboard!!!!

 

[jpryorx2]

thank you the pics help alot with a game plan. i had to this once over 20 years ago and had help and for the life of me i can't recall how we did it. the original plan for this project was to put a injected 360 with a 5 speed but now were thinking to just throw a 440/727 in it . luckly our parts car was a 400 so we can use that k frame but will have to rebuild the rear sections haven't even thought about trying to pull that one off yet and it's clear how rotted the rears are. my 1st car was a 79 doba that my parent bought new then parked it for 14 years when when the trans blew. then a couple years later i got a 79 magnum.so i didn't hesitate much when my son said he wanted this one for his first car even if it turned from putting a drive line and paint job on it to replacing a full quarter,full floor, half the trunk floor,new fenders ect. oh and now he wants it black and i hate body work lol

 

[jpryorx2]

update i was able the drill out the spot welds and weld the rear nuts in place worked out great then since i knew the fronts were gonna spin i went ahead and windowed the frame before i even tried to break them loose. on the driver side the cage was completely gone and the passenger side was already broken i'm assuming from the factory. i was dropping the whole front end assembly and found that someone had welded the driver side upper control arm mount in place so had to torch it off but as of now the k frame is on the ground and the car is on the rotisserie. thanks again for the help
jason

 

[Micah Pohlman]

This is how I dealt with the issue on a car I have in the shop.

 

[rumblefish360]

Nice trick. Now, if the cars were only spiral notebook light so I could have flipped mine over like that!
LMAO!!!!

Mine was a mini project to do. Not hard, just took time. Getting the inside all cleaned out took the most time.