A/C Filter/Dryer Direction?

[dodge68charger]

What Is The Correct Orientation Of The Filter/Dryer. Direction Of Flow?

thanks

 

[1 Wild R/T]

refrigerant comes from the condenser through the dryer to the expansion valve & into the evaporator...

 

[dodge68charger]

Thank You.

How Do I Go About Attaching The Copper Line With No Fitting On The Expansion Valve To The Tube?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

If it's a stock Mopar system the capillary sensing tube slides into a tube made into the suction tube... If it's an aftermarket deal the best approach is to wrap the capillary tube around the metal fitting of the suction tube & wrap it with insulating tape.. (the black sticky tape)

 

[dodge68charger]

Its a Stock Unit. Would Heat Shrink Work To Seal it And How Far Should It Be In?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Its a Stock Unit. Would Heat Shrink Work To Seal it And How Far Should It Be In?

It doesn't need to be sealed per se, but thermally insulated... The tube in the OE system isn't open to the refrigerant it's just in direct contact with the steel line to transfer the temperature which is directly related to pressure... The sensing capillary uses that signal to control the opening of the expansion valve....

A little piece of heat shrink could be used to keep the dirt out but it's not critical.... The black foam wrap is basically household plumbing pipe insulation

It goes in 3.5-4" just get the tube straight & slide it in till it stops..

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Have you flushed the components? You can get a loaner flushing tool from O Reilys or Auto Zone..

 

[dodge68charger]

Haven’t Flushed Anything But All The Lines Are Off The Car.

Bought The Car With Nothing Really Hooked Up In The AC System.

Any Other Advice Would Be Great.
Thank You So Much

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Flush tool is pictured below, the really effective solvent we use to use is no longer available, the stuff sold for the purpose these days is Okay but crazy expensive... Most guys use denatured alcohol... Buy a gallon at the hardware store & have over $100 extra in you pocket for a product that works just as well....

I use about 1/2 quart per flush & I typically flush the evaporator & condenser two or three times depending on how the system looks... I flush the hoses typically once...

After flushing I put the system in a vacuum for at least 45 minutes, You can get a vacuum pump & gauges from Auto Zone or O Reilys too...

If you have it I use the old dryer during that phase just cause I try to be extra careful.... Then I crack the system, add oil as needed & install the new dryer before putting it back into a vacuum for 30 minutes...

When adding oil don't put any in the dryer in spite of what you may read.. It goes to the expansion valve & causes problems.. I typically put a couple ounces in the evaporator from the suction line side, stay away from the high side since again it will drain back to the expansion valve... I put a couple ounces in the condenser where the line from the compressor attaches...

After all that I charge the system based on standard pressure/temperature charts based on the refrigerant I'm using....

 

[Demonic]

^ Good advice. Don't forget new o-rings, oil them and the threads. Be careful of the condenser outlet fitting to the liquid line on the passenger side. The threads are aluminum and can gall coming apart or together. Again, oil is your friend. The compressor shaft seal is a common leak source. I usually pressure test with nitrogen, but I'm in the business.

 

[dodge68charger]

Thanks So Much Guys. I Really Appreciate The Help.

Any Particular Oil I Should Use?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Oil depends on what refrigerant.. I suspect your converting to R134 which uses either PAG or Esther oil... R12 uses mineral oil... Mineral oil & PAG are not comparable with one another so if any mineral oil finds a place to hide it can cause problems with PAG oil so it's best to use Esther oil...

Personally I've been converting to Sanden compressors since they are much more efficient & less prone to leaking...

The original RV2 compressors always have a slow leak at the shaft seal when charged with R12... But R134 has a molecule about half the size of R12 so whats a slow leak with R12 is a pretty significant leak with R134...